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Claude T. Coil
05-24-2007, 12:57 PM
I just acquired a 1947 Commander starlight coupe. When I turned the steering wheel the horn would blow. I removed the horn ring and found a conglomeration or mixed screws, chunks of rubber to prevent grounding of the horn ring and a general mess.
How is the horn ring suppose to be held away from the steering wheel unless the horn is intendended to be used? Is there suppose to be a spring?
Are the correct parts available? Is there a recommended fix?
Thanks in advance.

Roscomacaw
05-24-2007, 03:08 PM
There's no "spring". Those remnants of rubber bits are from a foam rubber ring that has three holes into which fit hollow insulators thru which screws go to hold the ring to the wheel.
It's really the rubber "pad" you probably need. Part#520411

Seems to me that someone had these repro'd not too long ago. I may have a "servicable" one around here someplace, but check with the vendors first.;)

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Blue 15G
05-24-2007, 03:47 PM
Chances are also good that the horn wire itself is frayed and shorting out further down the column somewhere.

vegas paul
05-24-2007, 04:30 PM
I don't mean to de-rail this thread, but my Shop Manual says "Remove the horn button..." with no further instructions, prior to pulling the steering wheel. How do you do this? I don't have a horn ring, just a central button.

Las Vegas, NV
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/1462673_2_350.jpg http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude.jpg

Buddy1944
05-25-2007, 11:19 AM
Paul... Disconnect the battery, push the horn button in slightly turn about 45 degrees to the left or right and it should then be removeable..

Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
Warner Robins, GA 31088
478-953-3077

vegas paul
05-25-2007, 11:40 AM
Thanks... didn't try that yet, although I tried just about everything else.

Las Vegas, NV
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/1462673_2_350.jpg?t=1180041622 http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude.jpg?t=1180041703

rockne10
05-25-2007, 08:48 PM
quote:It's really the rubber "pad" you probably need. Part#520411

Seems to me that someone had these repro'd not too long ago.
SI lists these for $10.00 on page 131 of their catalog.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
http://www.4wheelz.net/virtual/images/rockne/1928_rockne03_f820_th.jpg'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

Roscomacaw
05-25-2007, 09:16 PM
Yeah, it turns to the left to remove it.

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

pyrodork
09-16-2010, 11:36 PM
Paul... Disconnect the battery, push the horn button in slightly turn about 45 degrees to the left or right and it should then be removeable..

Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
Warner Robins, GA 31088
478-953-3077

scott... 51 champion... it's not working...

studeboy28
09-17-2010, 11:42 AM
The rubber may have hardened and glued itself to the metal. Turn with firm pressure until it lets loose.

kurtruk
09-17-2010, 02:13 PM
If you have a horn-ring, it is held in to the horn-ring with a rubber O-ring. Always a little tricky to pry out if it is stuck for some reason. In fact--DON"T PRY!. You'll just chip the thin plastic lip.

studeclunker
09-17-2010, 05:04 PM
When you are trying to remove the button, pressing your palm against the button kind of roll your hand around a bit whilst twisting. That should break it loose without breaking the button. With the Larks, one almost has to pry to get them off. Especially if they're stuck.

By the by, the part you are trying to replace is called a 'sponge,' or 'push back.' Bob, the Catalogue from S.I. lists that Sponge as for Horn Rings, not just the plain button. Will it still work?

kurtruk
09-17-2010, 05:52 PM
Hey Clunk,
If the Bob you're referring to is Mr. Biggs, I don't think he is listening. That input was from 2007.

pyrodork
09-19-2010, 11:53 PM
The rubber may have hardened and glued itself to the metal. Turn with firm pressure until it lets loose.

no horn ring, just the button.

i've tried pushing down and turning firmly in both directions until i practically had blisters. it doesn't move more than 3/8". i've been away all weekend and haven't looked at it again, but do you think i might be able to squirt some wd40 in there to loosen the bond?

Dwain G.
09-20-2010, 12:50 AM
If it's a grey painted horn button, you push and turn. If it's the red plastic button, you have to pry it up VERY carefully. Pry a tiny bit at a time and work your way all around the button.

pyrodork
09-20-2010, 09:41 PM
If it's a grey painted horn button, you push and turn. If it's the red plastic button, you have to pry it up VERY carefully. Pry a tiny bit at a time and work your way all around the button.

got it. mine's the red painted one. pried it up slowly, but broke one of the rubber bushings that hold it in. i think it'll be fine, but just for future reference, how easy/expensive is that part to replace?

any tips on touching up the red? or should i just leave it as-is? don't want to spend a lot of money on it.

and where does the wire come out on the other end? i pulled it out about 8 inches, but that's as far as it would go, and i didn't see any wires moving on the other end. and speaking of wires, what gauge is good to use on all behind-the-dash stuff? i was going to buy 12g. might convert to 12 volts next winter, so i want it to withstand that. just can't deal with the fabric-covered wires; especially when i have no interior lights/horn/front turn signals working.

1954khardtop
09-22-2010, 10:04 PM
You don't need to up the wire size when you go to 12 volts. The 6 volt cars require heavier wire than 12 volt cars. As the voltage goes up the current needed to do the work goes down.

pyrodork
09-23-2010, 01:24 PM
You don't need to up the wire size when you go to 12 volts. The 6 volt cars require heavier wire than 12 volt cars. As the voltage goes up the current needed to do the work goes down.

weird. but that doesn't exactly answer my question. i'm replacing the wires and need to know what gauge of wire to use. on the circuit breaker behind the instrument cluster is a larger gauge wire. haven't found out what that goes to yet, but i assume i'll have to buy seperate larger gauge wire for that. and would i be better off buying spools for $6.50 or only the wire i need from the bulk at home depot? i'm assuming i should probably color-code them, too.

or edsel recommended just buying a harness for like $200, but that's a bit out of my price range.

JDP
09-23-2010, 03:07 PM
scott... 51 champion... it's not working...

I though it had a O ring and just needed to be gently pried off. (The O ring gets hard and makes it hard to remove.

pyrodork
09-23-2010, 08:51 PM
I though it had a O ring and just needed to be gently pried off. (The O ring gets hard and makes it hard to remove.

feel free to correct me if i'm wrong, but i thought just the horn rings had the O ring on them. i don't have a horn ring, but on the button, there's just a rubber piece with tabs on it.