259 engine question

[s2dwagon]

Smoke color is blueish and has a very strong petroleum smell.

Thanks,

quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

The first question that needs to be asked....

What color smoke?

Several different colors...several different reasons.

Mike

[s2dwagon]

259 engine question

I have a question regarding a 259 I have. When this motor sits for awhile, and then started, there is quite a lot of smoke that comes out of the exhaust. However, after running for about five minutes, things clear up and it runs great, as always. My question is, what could be the cause, and, what is the cure.

Thanks,

Scott

[Mike Van Veghten]

The first question that needs to be asked....

What color smoke?

Several different colors...several different reasons.

Mike

[John Kirchhoff]

Most likely it's worn valve stem seals, especially on the intake valves. With age and use, the soft rubber becomes hard as a rock. I used the teflon Chevy 350 seals that pop over the top of the guide. Back in the good old days there were "umbrella" seals that were exactly that and stuck on the valve stem itself. If they try to sell you those, don't buy them.

[JDP]

Sounds like valve seals. When you shut the engine off, the oil drains down the guides and has to be burned off.

JDP/Maryland


63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

[Mike Van Veghten]

Agreed, stem seals.

By the way...nothing at all wrong with the rubber umbrella seals!! Been used in millions of engines over LOTS'A years.
NOTHING lasts for ever.

Along with the nothing lasts for ever thought, if the engine's got a lot of miles on it, the actual stem to guide clearance is most likely on the loose side also. So seals...any type of seal is only plugging the proverbial dyke...for now.

Mike

[Roscomacaw]

Those teflon seals may be an improvement - I can't say for sure. But I agree with Mike here, the umbrella seals will last a good long time.
BTW, the teflon seals don't work right outta the package. The guide tops have to be turned down a bit. I have a cutter tool that does this with the guides in place. It chucks into an adequate drill press and cuts only as far down as is required. But it's NOT something you can do ON the engine - unless you don't mind the thought of having lots of steel shavings floating around inside your motor![xx(]
I'd lend this thing to anyone who wanted to use it so long as you pay postage both ways and advance a refundable deposit.

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle


1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

[John Kirchhoff]

Hmmm, I've used both the all rubber and rubber with teflon insert seals on Chrysler and Stude engines without cutting the guides. Both kind had the wire "C" spring around the base which gripped the guide firmly. The Chrysler job was larger in diameter than the Chevy-Stude one, but both types have stayed in place for a long time. Maybe I'm just lucky....

[JDP]

I rather use the modern seals on a keeper or a rebuild. yes, the factory seals will work, but not much over 40,000 miles or so. They'll get hard as a rock and break up in little pieces.

JDP/Maryland


63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander