Electrical: Brake Light Switch (Universal?)

[black9fourfour]

Is the brake light switch (off the master cylinder) something that can be replaced with a generic NAPA unit, or does it have to be specific to the car?

Anyone have a universal part number or an interchangeable model?

1959 Silver Hawk.

Thanks,
Shaun

[41 Frank]

It is pretty much a universal item available at all auto parts stores. The Borg Warner number for the two bullet type is S-194, I get mine at O'Reillys

[black9fourfour]

thank you sir!

[Greenstude]

I replaced the brake light switch on my '47 Champion today with one from NAPA ---- line UNI, part number SL143. This fits all 1947 to 1949 Studebakers, and may be the same one you need. It also fits Volkswagen Bugs from approximately the late 1960s.

This switch has flat blade terminals. If your car has round terminals, they will need to be changed.

[Bud]

The NAPA part number is SL134 and the Standard Motor Parts number is SLS27. The switch is the same for most cars that use hydraulic pressure to actuate the switch. Bud

[black9fourfour]

41 frank's suggestion worked perfectly.

Thanks guys!

[StudeRich]

I replaced the brake light switch on my '47 Champion today with one from NAPA ---- line UNI, part number SL143. This fits all 1947 to 1949 Studebakers, and may be the same one you need. It also fits Volkswagen Bugs from approximately the late 1960s.

This switch has flat blade terminals. If your car has round terminals, they will need to be changed.

Next time buy the correct switch, the SL134 no need to modify things when correct original replacements are available for the same $ or less.

Fits every Ford & Chrysler Product ever built between 1947 and at least mid 1960's and MORE!

[57 Silver Hawk]

I just found out the brake light switch in my Hawk is not working today. I have a question why did my switch quit working after I installed new switch seven years ago?? The brake fluid damaged it??


StudeRich, Is the switch #SL134 will fit my '57 Hawk?

Thanks, Steven

1957 Studebaker Silver Hawk w/289 & auto
1967 Corvair Monza Coupe w/110hp, auto & factory air
1969 Corvair Monza Coupe w/140hp, 4spds & smog air

[StudeRich]

I just found out the brake light switch in my Hawk is not working today. I have a question why did my switch quit working after I installed new switch seven years ago?? The brake fluid damaged it??

StudeRich, Is the switch #SL134 will fit my '57 Hawk? Thanks, Steven

Quote Bud: "The NAPA part number is SL134 and the Standard Motor Parts number is SLS27. The switch is the same for most cars that use hydraulic pressure to actuate the switch. Bud"

Quote 41 Frank: "It is pretty much a universal item available at all auto parts stores. The Borg Warner number for the two bullet type is S-194, I get mine at O'Reillys"

Quote StudeRich: "Next time buy the correct switch, the SL134" Fits every Ford & Chrysler Product ever built between 1947 and at least mid 1960's and MORE!"


If all this is not enough, look for Two ROUND bullet Terminals on the switch.
Yes, that should be the one listed for Fords, Studebakers, Chrysler Prods. etc. for all or most of the 1950's and 1960's.


If you are using Silicone Brake Fluid DOT 5, yes it does "Eat" them, but your's lasted about 6 years longer than most.


If you are using DOT 3 Standard Brake Fluid, the moisture that that fluid traps in the system may have finally got to it, 7 years is not too short a time for it to go bad!

[Gunslinger]

It took less than two years for the NAPA SL134 to go bad in my Avanti. I installed a mechanical brake light switch under the dash and that cured the problem and left the hydraulic switch in place. The next problem was the hydraulic switch started passing enough current to dimly illuminate the tail lights all the time. I use DOT 3 fluid as well and still had the problems.

I very much recommend a mechanical switch in any car one can be adapted to. The switch itself only costs about $8.00 and maybe an hours time to install...and I work slow.

[StudeRich]

The permanent fix for that, is to find the wire from the Hydraulic switch to the turn signal switch under the dash and cut it, splice on to it and reroute to the new Mechanical switch, also the power feed wire from the fuse, also under the dash. Thereby making the wires to the old Hydraulic switch dead.

[r1lark]

For some reason the hyd brake light switches don't seem to last long for me, even with normal DOT4 fluid. Here's how I did the mechanical switch in my '54 sedan:
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...l+brake+switch

[warrlaw1]

Mine lasted 1000 miles and then cacked. At least I'm not the only one.

[Bills R2]

brake switch

A lot of these switches come from China and are junk.The mexican ones hold up better.
Maybe a Stude vender has an NOS one? I am told that the Harley switches are premium and are much more sensitive...

[R_David]

It took less than two years for the NAPA SL134 to go bad in my Avanti. I installed a mechanical brake light switch under the dash and that cured the problem and left the hydraulic switch in place. The next problem was the hydraulic switch started passing enough current to dimly illuminate the tail lights all the time. I use DOT 3 fluid as well and still had the problems.

I am so glad I read this post, I have EXACTLY the same problem. My brake lights remain on all the time, but very dimly lit. I think I will replace it tomorrow with a new hydraulic switch so I can drive this week. Then I will definitely be putting in the mechanical one. Thanks for describing your problem Gunslinger!!