Engine: Need help with point gap and dwell

[Lark289]

[Chucks Stude]

My car got run into while it was parked. Still don't understand how it happened, but whatever. It spent several weeks at the body shop, and when I went to pick it up, it had a dead battery, and really didn't want to run. This should have been a clue as to what they did. It seems they left the key on, and probably more than once. And this is what happened to the points, and also, the coil was burned up too. This distributor and points were new, and had less than 50 miles on them. So, IMHO, replace the points, and the coil, they are not real expensive and can leave you stranded on the side of the road. Ask me how I know.





Bob Johnstone's web site has tune-up spec on your car. The gap is usually around .016 to .017, and dwell is around 28 degrees. But check Bob's website to be sure.

[Lark289]

Great. Thanks for the info. Your tale sounds a lot like mine. Based on your suggestion I will change the coil as well. Jeff

[whacker]

Change the condenser too. Cheap and easy, and could be ruined just like the coil.

[starliner62]

That was a HOT set of points!!

[Mike Van Veghten]

Point gap and dwell are "essentually" the same thing.
The word "gap", measures the space created by the distributor cam and point rubbing block, between the point contacts with a feeler gauge (or other device!).
The word "dwell" measures the space created by the distributor cam and point rubbing block, between the contact points with an electronic meter that measures the amout of time the contact points are open, or not in contact with each other.

Some swear by the feeler gauge method, some swear by the meter method.
Using an electronic meter to measure the point "gap", is somewhat more precise and "can" be easier to use. It can also tell you that your distributor needs to have work done because the point plate is bouncing around and not a solid location for the points to be fastened.
On the other hand, a person with good dexterity, and "truly" knows how to use a feeler gauge, AND has some experience, can tell the very same thing, just as accuratly by finger tip feel.

And yea, per the above pictures, an ignition switch can do the points, condensor and coil no good. Funny thing though, if the points are at full open with the power on, the damage, if any will be minimal. But if the contacts are closed or near closed, continual arcing will take place...just like a mini arc welder.

Mike

[Lark289]

Chucks Stude, thanks for the pictures and the link to Bob Johnstone's web site. The tune-up references are all there and are very handy.

I know better than to leave the ignition key in the "on" position. But I cannot be sure that the body shop did not accidently leave leave the ignition key "on". So, my next step will be to replace the points and condensor. If that does not work then I will replace the coil.

[Chucks Stude]

A bad coil will do the same thing to your points again. So be sure the coil is OK if you are not going to replace it. If it hasn't been changed in years, it doesn't hurt to go ahead and do it.

[Hawklover]

If one keeps the cam well lubed, little wear of the rubbing blocks will be in play.

Indeed the points in my car have been in there for over ten years and the dwell is still within spec! I see no need to change points simply because ten years have come and gone.

[(S)]

The other thing you may need to consider is that Body Shops are notorious for getting "Stuff" in a body mounted Gas Tank Filler pipe like a '62 Lark!
One of Dad's Daytonas never ran right after getting who knows what, in the open filler pipe while the Car and Original Cap were being sanded, prepped, primed, base coated and Clear coated separately.

[jackb]

if your eledtrics don't change things dramatically...next, check for air leaks around the carb base....

[Lark289]

Thanks for all the tips. I am going to have at it today and see if I can fix it.

[Lark289]

Well I put in new points, condensor and coil. I had previously put in new wires, plugs, cap and rotor. The engine runs a little bit better, but it still runs rough. It will not hold an idle, but I do not have to give it nearly as much gas to keep it running. I got a carb rebuld kit from SI and so now I have pulled the carb. Next I will rebuild the carb and see if that fixs the problem.

[Warren Webb]

Thats the trouble with leaving your car with shops today. Most of their employees dont know what the arrangement of positions in the ignition switch. Cars made today have their ignition switch on the column & usually the key has to be turned all the way to get the off position. Do that on a Stude or any car of that era & you get the accessory position, although that does drain the battery, it wouldnt burn the points. I have always taught any employees that work with me to remove the key, that way there isnt a problem unless your cylinder is worn & the key can be removed at any location. Hope you find out what is your problem & restore your car to its prior performance.

[BrianC]

I found this out the hard way. Check to see if there is any play in the throttle shaft lever at the base of the carb. I just finished putting a kit in the carb, very little improvement. If there's any play in that shaft at all, the casing is worn, you are sucking air, you'll be hard pressed to get a good idle no matter how good all your ignition parts are. The best idle i could get was 1000-1100 rpm. I changed out the carb, and now i have a smooth 650- 700 rpm. its a 63 Hawk 289.