PDA

View Full Version : shackle bushings removed



vegas paul
05-19-2007, 07:51 PM
I am replacing some very worn out original rear leaf springs (original business coupe only had 3 leaves, I'm replacing with the standard 4-leaf from the coupe/sedan). After reading a few old posts, I was very concerned about removing/replacing the shackle bushings in the frame.

I read Chuck Collins's write up on his web site (StudebakerParts.Com) and he's a genius! I had both out in 45 minutes, and the replacements took even less time to get back in. The new springs came with bushings, so I didn't have to R&R those.

Thanks, Chuck, and for everyone else, take advantage of his write-ups on his site - I am no longer amazed at how many smarter (than me) people own Studebakers.

Las Vegas, NV
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude.jpghttp://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/1462673_2_350.jpg

53k
05-19-2007, 09:50 PM
quote:Originally posted by vegas paul

I am replacing some very worn out original rear leaf springs (original business coupe only had 3 leaves, I'm replacing with the standard 4-leaf from the coupe/sedan). After reading a few old posts, I was very concerned about removing/replacing the shackle bushings in the frame.
I read Chuck Collins's write up on his web site (StudebakerParts.Com) and he's a genius! I had both out in 45 minutes, and the replacements took even less time to get back in. The new springs came with bushings, so I didn't have to R&R those.
Thanks, Chuck, and for everyone else, take advantage of his write-ups on his site - I am no longer amazed at how many smarter (than me) people own Studebakers.

His procedure is fine for a rust-free, dry-area car, but for most of us the problem is getting the "through" bolt out when it is totally frozen to the inner part of the bushing. The only way I could get them out was to cut them off between the bushing and the shackle using a "Sawzall". I went through something like five of the best blades I could buy just to get out two bolts. :(

[img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine

vegas paul
05-20-2007, 12:54 AM
Ouch... Sounds like a lot of work. I guess I was very fortunate to have a dry climate car that didn't have that corrosion. Anyway, even with my good luck, I probably wouldn't have figured out his method on my own. Goes to show you... a combination of dumb luck and good advice sometimes makes everything work out OK.

Las Vegas, NV
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude.jpghttp://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/1462673_2_350.jpg