Electrical: No High Speed Heater Blower and Wipers

[bjackameit]

I'm sorting out my "new" 1964 Challenger and I have discovered that both the heater blower and the windshield wipers only work on low speed. This is with the rocker switches in the center position. Putting either in the high speed position has the same result as putting it in off. I am not much with electrical stuff but my theory is that in both cases it is probably the rocker switch that is faulty. But is there anything else I should try?

[starlightchamp]

https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/html/images/63-4-lark-wire.jpg

I notice in the wiring diagram that there is a both a fuze and a circuit breaker in the circuits for blower and wipers.
My Hawk has a toggle that is neutral in the center, up for high speed , low position for low speed. If rockers are the same.
I would suspect either or both fuse and breaker. Don't know why you are getting motion from neutral position. Check the grounds,
fuze and breaker. Then,if you have a jumper wire,put 12 volts directly to motors and see if you get the two speeds.
Good Luck

[Tom Bredehoft]

I don't know about '64s (then why are you responding) but my '53 switches have a resister on them that governs the low speed. High speed goes straight to the motor and low goes through the resistor. Maybe you have only high speed, and because its almost 50 years old just seems slow.

[doug]

My '63 blower only worked in high, disconnected wires at blower and checked for power (use trouble light or volt/ohm meter) Found no voltage from switch in low position. Ta-da bad switch.

[JimC]

Two bad switches, both being bad in the same way sounds really weird to me. Read your wiring diagram and look under the dash. If you're really incapable of understanding the wiring diagram, ask another Stude nut in the area to look over the dash. It's entirely possible that somewhere in the last half century a previous owner had a problem and did a home brewed repair.

[jackb]

there is no comparison to the rocker vs. toggle switches: they work differently. As stated above, you have wiring and/or switch issues.....I suspect the switches unless you see some hanging or tied up wires or a lot of Rube's black tape under the dash. My 63' switches sometimes operate on one speed or the other...I simply keep flipping them on and off until the contacts free up....I haven't taken one apart, I'm sure they are a simple working, but maybe with "Jesus" spring(s) inside.......?

[bjackameit]

Rocker Switches

there is no comparison to the rocker vs. toggle switches: they work differently. As stated above, you have wiring and/or switch issues.....I suspect the switches unless you see some hanging or tied up wires or a lot of Rube's black tape under the dash. My 63' switches sometimes operate on one speed or the other...I simply keep flipping them on and off until the contacts free up....I haven't taken one apart, I'm sure they are a simple working, but maybe with "Jesus" spring(s) inside.......?

This was the easiest suggestion and by Jove it worked for the wiper switch -- I now have two speeds for the wipers after working it (THE SWITCH) about 20 times with the power off. The heater blower still works only on the center (low) setting but it blows hard at that setting -- it really seems like it is on high. If this is low, high must really be FAST!

I also noted that the instrument lights only come on at the high setting on their rocker switch -- the low setting does not turn them on -- but this may be correct for this car -- it is a Challenger which lacks some of the features of the more expensive models -- as far as I can tell there is no separate rheostat under the dash on the left side for the instrument lights. The rocker switch for the parking lights/headlights works as advertised.

[irish]

I also noted that the instrument lights only come on at the high setting on their rocker switch -- the low setting does not turn them on -- but this may be correct for this car -- it is a Challenger which lacks some of the features of the more expensive models -- as far as I can tell there is no separate rheostat under the dash on the left side for the instrument lights. The rocker switch for the parking lights/headlights works as advertised.

I believe even the Challengers came with the rheostat under the dash, the rheostat is usually the problem with the instrument lights. I have owned several Studebakers that had the rheostat removed or disconnected. Also be sure and check your wiring connections at the switches.

Joe

[Farrier1951]

What the heck is a "Jesus" spring?????!!

[PlainBrownR2]

What the heck is a "Jesus" spring?????!!

A tiny, imperceptible, coiled device that is under tension in a larger device, in this case the springs that allow the switch to click from low to high. When the larger device is opened up, the tiny coiled device launches like a missile into a dark corner somewhere, which causes the operator to say "Jesus!! Where did it go??" Opening a device must be done carefully to prevent the springs from flying all over the place, as well as must be done at a well lit workbench, preferably free of clutter .

Also see: Bezel window and door handle Jesus clips

[bjackameit]

Lights fixed heater/defroster still a problem.

I believe even the Challengers came with the rheostat under the dash, the rheostat is usually the problem with the instrument lights. I have owned several Studebakers that had the rheostat removed or disconnected. Also be sure and check your wiring connections at the switches.

Joe

Found the rheostat and repaced it with NOS rheostat -- now have dimable dash and instrument lights on middle rocker switch setting so that problrm is fixed. Also replaced sealed beams with 6014 bulbs -- replaced both -- one of the original 6012 bulbs was burned out on low beam. Heater/defroster is the remaining electrical problem -- it appears to be a replacement motor wire to it is spliced and taped -- it was running only on low setting on rocker switch but very fast -- now not running at all from switch but motor will run on one speed if connected directly to battery and grounded. Don't think it is the switch itself I have several extra switches and have tried three different ones (rocker switches) to no avail. Is it possible switch was not hooked up properly when motor was replaced? -- I have not tried switching any of the connections at the switch for fear of messing something up.

[jackb]

I had all these problems (almost identical to yours) in my 63' Cruiser......I found the problem with the heater motor was a bad internal wiring. It also had a spliced-in wire and would work on one speed only. Since I had several extra motors, I swapped a good double speed one in with good strong air flowand wires......However, I did need to replace the duct work to the defrosters.....Smartest thing I did for this winter. Also, and just for the "perfectionists" in the crowd......

[StudeRich]

Replacement fan motor for '63 to '66 Lark types/

That is great, but no help unless we know what part number and source the Ford or Jeep? fan motor was.

[bjackameit]

Two speeds for Single Speed Heater Motor

I had all these problems (almost identical to yours) in my 63' Cruiser......I found the problem with the heater motor was a bad internal wiring. It also had a spliced-in wire and would work on one speed only. Since I had several extra motors, I swapped a good double speed one in with good strong air flowand wires......However, I did need to replace the duct work to the defrosters.....Smartest thing I did for this winter. Also, and just for the "perfectionists" in the crowd......

O.K. -- I have confirmed that the rocker switch for the blower motor is o.k. -- it appears that the blower motor is a single speed replacement -- it has just a ground wire and a single power wire. I have identified both of the the power wires from the heater rocker switch (one is yellow and one is red) and I can connect the blower motor to either of these and the blower will run (at high speed) on either the low or high switch setting depending upon which one I connect it to (an either or situation but also confirms a good switch). Would it work properly to have the blower motor connected to the high speed setting of the switch and then run another wire connected to the low speed setting of the switch and the blower motor power wire with a 12 volt to 6 volt resistor or voltage reducer in the line to get a second (lower) speed?