Body / Glass: '60 Lark Door alignments

[JimC]

My Lark has two sizable body problems: first is the almost completely eroded floor panels. I'm pretty sure I'll be able to weld in replacements easily enough.

HOWEVER, my concern is in my other problem: my driver's side door alignment is way off, and not by a small amount. I fear that if I weld in new floor pans and reinforce the posts that I'll just permanently seal the problem into the car. Take a look at the attached photos to see what I mean.

First, you can't see it because I took these pics with the door latched, but the whole door is sagging a little, probably 1/4 inch, give or take. It's not enough that the door won't latch, but you can feel the door lift up when it hits the striker. Also, look at how the door sits when closed. The top of the door is leaning way in, and the bottom leans way out.

How would I go about repairing these issues, and is it a matter of shimming, etc, or do I need to physically adjust the hinge post? With all the rust around it, it's possible that it's slightly off, but I'm not entirely convinced that the door was just re-mounted poorly years ago. Before the car went to go rest in a field for a decade and change, it had been stolen and taken for a joy ride in which the criminals sideswiped the vehicle. I believe my grandpa had removed the door and fender, and wound up hammering them out and replacing them on the car.

Thanks!

(The first image is just to illustrate the poor gap between the fender and the door, which was actually not only binding the door a bit, but was also causing the fender to bulge a bit.)

[Bob Andrews]

Most likely your only problem is worn out hinges. You need to get someone to lift up and down on the end of the open door while you watch the hinges for play at the pins. Also observe the A-pillar for any flexing at the bottom.

Hinges are pretty straightforward- if they're worn (and probably are) you can rebuild or replace them. If the A-pillar is moving you have to be sure to repair and brace that before/as a part of floor replacement. Either way, your instincts are right- it's critical to address this issue before you permanently weld anything.

[Bob Andrews]

BTW, just looked at your blog. Very cool, and by the time you get to the end of your restoration it will be an epic website! Best of luck, and I hope you take her all the way to the end

[larkmd]

I have found in the process of replacing the floor panels in my 59 wagon that the door alignment corrects itself if the hinge pillar is pulled to the rear. I did this with a ratchet strap and the door alignment improved. I would make the arguement that the rusted floors allows the cowl/ hinge pillar lower area to move forward causing or contributing to the door alignment problem. Hope this is helpful!

[41 Frank]

Give me a call and I'll come out and take a look at the problems Jim. I've restored several cars in that or worse condition. You will also want to check under the car for the condition of the torque boxes as I see you have a hardtop. cell 402 657-5318

[jclary]

Well, you might have "Grandpa's" Studebaker, but at least your '60 is a rather rare two door hardtop. I have a '60 that looks like "Grandma's" Studebaker. Mine is a frumpy four door, beige in color, with a southern red clay patina. Also, mine has a V8 and reclining split bench seats up front.

If yours has suffered the sideswipe as you said, you might want to check frame references to be sure it is true in addition to the other stuff mentioned. If you ever hang one of those A pillars off into space without bolting or temporarily spot welding it to keep it properly positioned...your chances of getting it back is greatly diminished. Take advantage of Frank's generous offer to give you some experienced "eye-ball" assessment.

Love the car and wish you the best.

[JimC]

Frank,

I'll definitely take you up on that offer! I could probably use some general advise on just about everything at this point!

Larkmd,

I'll keep that in mind. I'm really hoping the hinge post is stable, but we'll see.

Bob,

Thanks for the hinge idea. I can lift the door up and down a bit, and I don't necessarily see the post moving. You might be right on, but when I manage to drag Frank down there we'll know more for sure.

And thanks for the kind words on the website. I do hope it will be great by the end.

[Jeff T.]

Good luck with the hardtop.

I have been tinkering with mine (a 62) for the last 20 years or so and I wish I knew then what I know now as far as fixing the floor and bracing the body before starting. I also discovered that my door hinges we sloppy enough to replace, I still need to get a second hinge for the right door, the left door probably both.

You'll also find that we have enough vendors out there to supply nearly everything to get your Lark roadworthy.

Jeff T.

[Mih]

Vendors?

A question for Mr Jeff T who mentioned in a previous post, that he knew of "plenty of vendors" to get practically "everything to get your Lark roadworthy."

Would it be possible to get a few suggestions/contact info for a few of these vendors?

I just purchased (on a whim) a 1961 4-door, hard top, Lark 6.

[Warren Webb]

http://www.studebakervendors.com/

Here you go. You can also find alot of information on the club site & Bob Johnstones site. Welcome to a great group!

http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechx3.html

[Mih]

Thanks for the links! I also discovered Studebakerparts.com and downloaded a catalog of parts from Studebaker International. I think, with guidance from you all and armed with all these vendor links, I should be able to complete my next project: Window/Door weatherstripping and door handle stuff - (regulators?) Thanks for the advice all!

[52hawk]

regulators make the windows go up and down. I like the Lark!!!