slapper bars

[Dick Steinkamp]

Installed the slapper bars (traction bars) in S2D today.

If anybody else is doing this to a 51 and up car, you'll need a 1/2" spacer between the bar and the spring drilled for the slapper bar u-bolts in order for the bar to clear the shock mount/sway bar mount bracket on the bottom of the axle.







I wasn't able to get the slaper bar rubber bumper to line up exactly with the front spring eye as is recommended due to the fact that the bar isn't quite long enough AND there is a frame plate that covers the spring eye.

The rubber bumper to spring distance is somewhat adjustable with fender washers. I've got it set at about 1/2" now. Any recommendations on this?

Road testing tomorrow.

[Alan]

Get on that thing a few times and you will bend the springs.

[41 Frank]

Since I don't use the Stude springs in my 41 Champion but use Chassis Engineering ones my problem was that I also could not slide the bars (same as Dicks) far enough ahead for the snubber to line up under the spring eye but I was only off less than an inch so simply redrilled a hole for the snubber a little farther forward. Only problem I have now is that the car rides like a bucking bronco and since I don't have a paid up membership in the professional rodeo association I think I will be shimming mine as not to have them preloaded as much as is the case currently.
On the track they work great, no sign of wheel hop. I didn't get instructions from Summit with mine so I will have to wing it[^]


Frank van Doorn
1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
1963 Daytona Conv
1941 Champion R-2 Rod

[Dick Steinkamp]

I'm about an inch back from the spring eye. Not the best set up, but I think I'd need a lot more horsepower than what I have to bend the spring. I have about 220 at the rear wheels.

I'll see how these work tomorrow with the 1/2" gap...both in terms of ride and launch.

[41 Frank]

Since you say 220hp at the rear wheels,the calculator says 218.73hp on the 41 so this means you have me by 1.27hp, you should beat me
easily Dick by the way do you have your own private test facility?[)]

Frank van Doorn
1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
1963 Daytona Conv
1941 Champion R-2 Rod

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by 41 Frank

Since you say 220hp at the rear wheels,the calculator says 218.73hp on the 41 so this means you have me by 1.27hp, you should beat me
easily Dick by the way do you have your own private test facility?[)]

I had it on a chassis dyno when the car was fresh about 6 years ago. That's what it was making then. Probably less now.

The dyno pulls were up to about 5000 rpm when both HP and torque started falling off. HP peaked about 4400. Torque peaked at 280 ft pounds at about 3200.

S2D weighs 3253 without me in it but with about 60 pounds of fuel. 3450 would be a good "race weight". Probably heavier than the '41. Also, I think most automatics are better drag race cars than sticks (unless you can shift like Ted Harbit [])...and that TH2004R is one of the best.

What are your 60' times now, Frank?

[41 Frank]

41 weight was 3260 with 8 gallons of fuel but without slapper bars installed and spare in trunk, without driver (add 160#)about the same weight as Teds tomato and Georges PBW.Originally car factory weight was around 2390 according to James Moloneys book.So I added a lot of weight with AC ,P/S, P/B and 289 engine, almost 1000# if one is to believe the figure listed in the book. My 60' times are currently at a best of 2.229.

Frank van Doorn
1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
1963 Daytona Conv
1941 Champion R-2 Rod

[sbca96]

I had them on my 60 Hawk, and broke one of the smaller leafs. Then I
got a set of heavy duty springs and they held up. The ones I got are
fully adjustable, but I had to make brackets to eliminate the adjuster
because no matter HOW tight I got the bolts, the adjuster would max
out after a couple hard take offs[:I]. That would leave the slapper
bar hanging down like a kick stand. They lined up with the front eye.

I plan on using something like a Cal Trac on the Avanti.

http://www.calvertracing.com/

1. The Front Pivot

Two steel plates sandwich the leaf spring sides. Two attach points in the plates provide the user with a selection in which the forward Force Transfer Link rod end can be located. A machined aluminum spring eye bushing and steel insert supports the front of the spring while allowing the plates to pivot. A spring stop bolt controls and restricts spring wrap-up. Spacers are provided for different vehicle applications that control clearances in the front spring eye pocket.

2. Force Transfer Link

This is a length of chromolly tubing with CNC machined threaded inserts TIG welded into each end. The front Insert is machined with right hand Threads and a HEX outer shape for Simple wrench adjustment of the Installed assembly. The rear insert is Left hand threaded. Opposite thread Styles at each end provide the means to easily lengthen or shorten the link for desired pre-load adjustment.


3. Rear Mount

[41 Frank]

I don't see an application for Studes on Caltracs website Tom and since you have to use their front spring bushing that could be a problem, guess one could be fabricated[8D]

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by 41 Frank

I don't see an application for Studes on Caltracs website Tom and since you have to use their front spring bushing that could be a problem, guess one could be fabricated[8D]

I did consider those CalTracs.

It would not be impossible to fit them to a late Studebaker...but a lot of fabricating and some "reinvention of the wheel" to get the geometry correct again for the Stude. You'd have to find one "close" then start cutting and welding. The tough part would be that the front spring eye on a late Stude is "buried" under a part of the frame. I can't visualize how to overcome that to install the CalTracs without some major major work.

In the articles I read, there was no difference in 60' times between slapper bars and CalTracs. If I had unlimited time and money and a lot more HP, I'd do the CalTracs. I don't have any of the above

[DEEPNHOCK]

Paint them black, Dick....
Jeff[8D]

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

[b]Paint them black, Dick....

For sure! I want to dial them in, then I'll take them off, cut the U bolts to length and paint them.

(they sort of do have that "boy racer" look now )

[41 Frank]

Same here, wife says they look weird in yellow, so will paint them black also, when momma is happy everyone is happy! Anyone know how much if any pressure should be on the rubber snubber when at rest?
Since my snubber sits directly under the front spring eye it puts tension on everything when u-bolts are tightened.[:0]

quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

[b]Paint them black, Dick....

For sure! I want to dial them in, then I'll take them off, cut the U bolts to length and paint them.

(they sort of do have that "boy racer" look now )

[Flat Ernie]

Back in my youth, the slapper bars were a common "upgrade" to the Camaros, Firebirds, & Mustangs of the day - I remember 1/2" to 5/8" as the suggested ballpark initial setting...

Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I'm one tough sumbitch!

[41 Frank]

Back in my youth I was too poor to have store bought stuff also not nearly as much stuff was available as these days Ernie. When I used to race Studes at the drags in the 60's I made my own traction bars with used tie rods and a stick welder.I guess I'm dating myself here again. I will work on spacing mine out tomorrow.Wish I would have gotten a set of instructions with mine, oh well I'll get it sorted out. In a couple of weeks they are having "Old Geezer Drags" here with a flag start if you want or pro tree, I'll enter and get some more practice in. In about an hour its time to go on tour with my GT Hawk with the local Antique car club for the afternoon.[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Flat Ernie

Back in my youth, the slapper bars were a common "upgrade" to the Camaros, Firebirds, & Mustangs of the day - I remember 1/2" to 5/8" as the suggested ballpark initial setting...

Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I'm one tough sumbitch!