View Full Version : 1952 one piece windshield install

05-09-2007, 11:12 AM
I am really not looking forward to this.
I have read a few old posts and also have the shop manaul procedure, so i know the basics. A few questions I have for those more informed, based on what I read in the manual.

Step 9 - "Clean all old caulking compund from around the weatherstrip and apply fresh sealer..." I have new weatherstrip, but does this mean some sort of sealer goes in the groove before its placed around the glass? What kind?

Step 10 - "put a bead of sealer around the inside of the windshield flange." Again, what sealer? And wont this get all messed up anyway, seeing as how I plan to have soapy water slopped everywher?

Step 11 - actual installation. "The ends of the cord should cross at top dead center". So I guess from inside the car you seat the top first..? Then pulling from outside the last bit of rubber to pop on would be the bottom center, and the cord is finally out? Seems like setting the bottom in first would work better.

52 hardtop

05-09-2007, 11:19 AM
here is a nice picture that accompanies these directions. I hear installing the reveal molding is a royal PITA, but first I have to address headache numver 1, the glass.


52 hardtop

Henry Votel
05-09-2007, 02:29 PM
Hi Dan,

Just had this kind of fun. The closest thing to the original sealer I found was common 'Plumbers Putty' which is available at most big Box Home Stores in the plumbing section. Pull off a chunk and massage it in your hands to warm it up and then rub/roll it into about 1/4 inch round strings. You can usually set 6 inches of the stuff in place by pressing it with a putty knife to get it stuck on the metal. Extra at the corners if called for in the shop manual.

On my '54 the bottom of the glass was set first. But I'd follow the manual if it says start at the top. There are many secrets and the 'whys'were not written.

I found it handy to have a Harbor Freight glass suction handle to push the window in place. Two would have been better. Also I was able to beat on the glass suction handle to get the glass pushed down and around. it helped a lot.

If it says have 3 people there in the shop manual, then have 3 people there.

Henry Votel
Forest Lake, MN

05-09-2007, 02:54 PM
I happen to ibe installing a 65 Corvette windshield tomorrow. Same rubber gasket type. Be sure NOT to use the modern day sealant they are using on todays cars. This stuff gets hard and will not allow your glass to float in the rubber. I have tried many different types of caulk. I use 3m Bedding compound #8509. It NEVER gets hard and I place a bead in the rubber channel on both the glass side and the metal (Car)side first. Then after I have the glass set in the frame, I place tape all around the edge of the rubber(Outside Glass side)and peal back the rubber and lay a bead on the glass and rubber. At this point when you let go of the rubber it will squeeze out the excess onto the masking tape. Let it set for about an hour and put the tape off. It will give you a perfect cut line. Good luck.

05-09-2007, 03:27 PM
good good good. I would not have used anything! Obviously I should not skip the caulk step.
I have 3M strip caulk on hand, and good old black sticky weatherstrip adhesive. Are either close to the right consistency? Or go shopping?

Now, on the rope thing. Seems to me (never having done it) that the windshield bottom should be set in place on the body flange. And the rope should be centered at top middle, then over and down the sides. Someone pushes the windoew in, and as you pull the rope out you seat more and more rubber - until the top middle pops in as the rope comes totally out. True?

52 hardtop

05-09-2007, 04:23 PM
No do not use weatherstrip. and yes go shopping. A tube is only about $7. On the rope thing. Yes I always start on the bottom.(reverse the rope so it also starts on the bottom, and yes have someone pushing on the glass) Place it in the grove and start. Do Not get shocked if the rope comes out an the rubber didn't set. I use a peice of round stock that has a 90" bend at the bottom (1 "end)that I pull the rubber with inch by inch. The rope thing works but unless you do alot of these it is a little tricky. Also the 3m I use doesn't set up so you have all day to finish. If you screw up just take the glass out and start agian. Biggest challange are the corners. You will have to work the glass and rubber back and forth and bend the rubber corners alot. You have to push on the outside of the glass at times (sliding it back and forth just a little), this is what is called working the glass. DO NOT USE A SCREWDRIVER OR ANY STEEL TOOL To PRY ON THE GLASS as you will be buying a new glass. When you are finished get some 3m glue and emblem remover(it comes in a can) and clean everything up. It will NOT hurt the paint. Good Luck, let us know how it comes out and remember NO HURRY you can make many attempts. Also wear thin rubber gloves as it is messy, but don't worry about getting this chaulking on anything as it will come right off with this cleaner.

05-09-2007, 06:49 PM
This is all great information. I would add that it is good to remove any rough or bent areas on the body opening. They can make it more difficult to pull the rope through. If the car is being painted, this should be done before paint.

'23 Special Six,
'50 Business Champ,
'50 Starlight Champ,
'60 Lark droptop,
'63 GT

05-09-2007, 10:18 PM
I have to agree with KGlowacky do not use that strip caulk, been there done that in my 62 Lark, thinking that it is similar to Studebaker's caulk, well I ended up with new rubber covered with black goo and the windshield and back glass leaked worse than the 40 year old rubber I replaced. When I get around to putting the glass back in I am going to use that bedding compound mentioned or possibly urethane

Dwain G.
05-10-2007, 12:45 AM
Those instructions from PPG were included with a 1949 service bulletin and approved by the General Service Department. It's probably written for someone with previous glass experience.
What they are saying is to lay the windshield in place bottom first so that the seal is started over the flange, in a few places at least. Then start pulling the cord while pushing the windshield snugly against the flange.
If you have helpers, make sure they resist the urge to 'bump' the glass with their palms.
By the way, 1952 is the last year where the glass installs from the inside and the chrome trim is removed first and installed last.

Dwain G.

05-10-2007, 03:33 AM
On my first glass install, I was shown/instructed by a glass shop friend, I learned one trick, don't use thin string. Use a thicker rope (I think 1/4" or 3/16" Nylon), it does a much, much better job at gently pulling the rubber over the flange. Also, use the bedding compound mentioned, I had forgotten what I used on my first car and called up Champ glass and asked. He said 3M bedding compound, item #8509. On the tube itself it says, it is a non-hardening compound for sealing many things, one of which it specifically mentions is the rubber for windshields. Also follow the tips above (especially KGlowasky, good tips), I didn't know one of them, so I learned something here as well.

Best Regards,
Eric West
"The Speedster Kid"
Sunny Northern California
Where the roads don't freeze over and the heat doesn't kill you.
And an open road is yours to have -only during non-commute rush hours 9am-4pm and 7pm to 7am (Ha, ha, ha)
55 Speedster "Lemon/Lime" (Beautiful)
55 President State Sedan (Rusty original, but runs great and reliable)

05-10-2007, 08:15 AM
Google supplied these places that have simple websites and are about $7 a tube for 3M bedding compound.

Luckily the Ridge & Kramer down the road carries paint stuff and had one tube left. I'll let you know how it turns out.

52 hardtop

05-10-2007, 07:34 PM
Just finished my windshield installation today. I want everyone to promise me that you will NOT ever use anything other then the bedding compound. I was talked into trying a tube of new so called non harding (urathane)caulking from a glass salesman. What a mess. They were correct when saying it will not harden but is will stick to everything and is so stcking you can't even slide the window around to fit. This stuff is for the newer winshield applications with no gaskets. . Stick with the bedding compound and DON'T listen to the glass sales people. They have no idea what you are working with , TRUST ME. After 4 hours of trying to install and removing and CLEANING EVERYTHING. I went back got a tube of bedding compound and 20 minutes later I was done.

05-10-2007, 09:03 PM
When I had a new glass installed in the Transtar 11 years ago, the glass guy was an experienced fella that I'd known for some years. Heh - that's why I'd called on him to do the install for me.
We argued for some time about the sealer (dum-dum) that's supposed to go between the glass and the body. He was adamant that since I had a brand new gasket, I wouldn't need sealer. I argued that they used sealer at the factory where they never used anything BUT new parts!
Well, he won. Wore me down actually. Glass went in without any sealer whatsoever. First damned rainstorm I got caught in, guess who got soaked?:(

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

05-10-2007, 09:30 PM
I agree with sealer, just use some old time stuff,(dum-dum,bedding compound)not this modern age stuff. And my guess is Mr. Biggs.(got wet)

05-11-2007, 08:16 PM
quote:Now, on the rope thing. Seems to me (never having done it) that the windshield bottom should be set in place on the body flange. And the rope should be centered at top middle, then over and down the sides. Someone pushes the window in, and as you pull the rope out you seat more and more rubber - until the top middle pops in as the rope comes totally out. True?

Yep, pretty much. We re-installed the front and rear glass in my '59 a few weeks ago with that method. Worked perfectly. :)


Matthew Burnette
Hazlehurst, Georgia
'59 Scotsman PU
'63 Daytona HT

Simply Orange

05-29-2007, 11:39 AM
This went well, thanks for the tips. The bedding compound is black and messy, but it cleans up OK. The bit with the rope went far easier than I had figured.
Main complaint is that the new seal from SI is basically too big, they could easily take 2 or 3 inches out of the length around. So big that it wants to pop off the windsheild, so you have to smoosh it together all the way around, trying to get all the stretch out of it.
On all 4 outside corners the seal is popped up. It does not like to go around the tight corners. I am still messing around her eto get it flatter. Reinstalling the trim should help some.
In side I have the windlace up and the dash back in. Working on the inside retainers, so I am on the down side of the project. Thanks again.

52 hardtop

05-29-2007, 12:39 PM
At some point I am going to install a new windshield in my 52. This thread will be very helpful.

Leonard Shepherd


05-30-2007, 10:14 AM
I have been trying to get that reveal moulding in with no luck. (51 Commander) Have taken the windshield in and out trying different ways. I got it in the gasket without the windshield but then couldn't get the whole thing in. The windshield is in now. The gasket is new. Any suggestions on this part?

05-30-2007, 11:47 AM
Installing the reveal is my next problem. Have you read this older thread? Do a search on it.

"stainless reveal in windshield rubber"

you will not feel encouraged.

52 hardtop

05-30-2007, 05:17 PM

06-06-2007, 08:31 AM
A week later, I will clarify my last comment a bit. On the outside the rubber seal looks very nice now...the corners have settled in and lie flat.
They seemed to just do this on their own. Maybe it just takes a few days for the rubber to figure out its new position in life. Getting the retainers around the inside of the windsheild installed also helped though.
I am real happy with the repro seal now. Getting rid of a few inches would make install easier but maybe would not be as proper later.
Now for that reveal molding... [xx(]

52 hardtop

08-15-2009, 11:28 PM
bumping so I can print easier.Steve