1950 Commander engine block clean out.

[tomlewis]

I am planning to use a 1950 Commander engine in the '37 Coupe-Express that I am finally restoring. I have the head off the engine and have cleaned out all kinds of wires left from the foundry, scale, etc, from both the block and head. I am about to pop the freeze plugs to get to the lower water passages. Should I put the head back on the engine before I start with the water hose and scraping tools? I guess I am concerned about the water coming up and then getting down into the cylinders and oil pan. Is this something I need to worry about? Thanks for any advice. Tom

[StudeRich]

Yes, for sure re-install the Head with a new Gasket, use Permatex spray-on Copper Coat or your choice of Permatex Sealants, and clean & torque the bolts to spec. per the correct sequence.

You will find that MOST of the crud will be at the bottom of the Cooling Jacket, below the core plugs and drain plug, so that is the area you must thoroughly clean.

I am assuming this will be a FINAL assembly. If you are planning to tear the complete engine down for a re-build remove the bottom end and Cam first and then you can blast away and have the block hot tanked when you are done.

[Dwain G.]

Check the condition of the water distribution tube located behind the water pump.

[royvaldez]

A must: Check to see if the casting number on the crank is for a 1950 Commander. I have pulled 2 engines out of 1950 Commanders and turns out to be 226. Your casting number on the crank is 523168. Those casting numbers give you a 245 Commander motor.

[tomlewis]

Thanks for the advice. I plan to replace valves, but not do anything more. I had the engine running on a stand for a short time and had good compression in all cylinders, but some of the valves looked thin on the edges. So when it goes back together it will be a final assembly. I'll do it correctly with proper sequence, sealer, etc.
I was surprised when I first took the engine apart at how clean the water distribution tube was. No crud at all in the bottom of it and shiny copper at the far end when I shined a flashlight down it. I didn't want to pull it because I wasn't sure I could find a replacement.
Roy---I dropped the pan again and looked for that casting number. I found a number between Number one and number two that starts with 523, but the other numbers were not legible. I checked the engine number again and realized I made an error. The engine number (H359637) shows that this engine actually came out of a '49 Commander. I should have remembered that because when I ordered the gasket set from Sandy Olsen he had me double-check it because the '50 Commander gasket set has a rear seal that the '49 doesn't need.

[hank63]

If you want the block REALLY clean inside, fill water jackets with "brickies acid" (hydrocloric acid) and let stand. Works quicker if block & acid is warm (normal summertime temp). Make sure you protect yourself well, that acid can do some real damage. Do not let the acid contact any aluminium. Drain the sludge out, rinse and your block should look like it just came from the foundry.
It works extremely well, but be mindful of the hazards and how you dispose of the sludge.
/H