I've tried everything in previous post last year I soaked with pb blaster all summer now with use of a puller and heat still no luck so what is a guy to do. Brake are not engage and dont work. do I need to cut them off? Thanks for any advice. Shane
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year long rear drum removal HELP
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I have had some stubburn hubs in the past but heat has done the trick for me. Of course I had to use a large "rosebud" tip making sure the entire circle of the hub was cherry red with pressure on it from the hub puller. I then walked away from it & around 15 -20 minuets later I heard a pop. If you've done that & it still a no-go, then I would try a last resort (which I havn't had to do ......yet). After removing the cottier pin, back off the nut about a turn & a half, reinstall the cottier pin & drive the car around the block making left & right turns to hopefully break loose the hub from the side force. I'd stay close to home & make sure the membership to auto club is current, just in case.59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
64 Zip Van
66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
66 Cruiser V-8 auto
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What specific type of puller are you using? If you're using one like Chuck Collins has shown on his site (attached on all 5 lugs) It will work. If it doesn't attach to all 5 lugs it's usually a waste of time on a rusty hub. I have run across some very tough hubs but never one I couldn't remove, including some with the brakes locked-up.
Joesigpic
1962 Daytona
1964 Cruiser
And a few others
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I agree with Joe--What kind of puller do you have? I used to have a two-lug cheap puller and had a hell of a time with the hubs. I invested in a good 4-arm puller (my hubs are 4-lug) and now it is a breeze. I am not sure penetrating oil can get in far enough to help. I tried heat with the cheap puller but a MAPP torch is just not hot enough. Just be sure to leave the axle nut on loose so when it does break loose you don't get hurt.
Nathan
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What Terry said!
A good 3-arm puller will do it. Beat on the striking wrench until it will turn no more, and then beat on the end of the puller screw, just a few heavy whacks. Use at least a two-pound hammer. Those pullers are meant to be beat on. If the brakes are locked up, take out the bolts that attach the wheel cylinder to the backing plate. That should give you enough movement to release the drum, once the hub is free.Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
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Glad to see you got it off finally! I am glad I held on to my trusty old oxy-acet. torch for that very reason. Dont use it for welding anymore since mig does a cleaner job with less warping but when you need the old stuff, nothing else comes close!59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
64 Zip Van
66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
66 Cruiser V-8 auto
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congrats....and one additional helping point: make sure your threaded screw is aligned perfectly with the axle . If the force (screw) is off just a little, you won't get the desired results. After using the best of these pullers, with 3/4 lug nuts etc....sometimes the tightening sequence is not so simple.....(i.e. you may need to tighten differently on each lug nut to get the perfect pull.....
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