I bought a filter canister for the Champion 6 off ebay and not sure where it hooks up. It looks like the bottom connection (I assume is the return) connects to the base of the oil breather/dip stick tube, correct? Where does the side connection (pressure side) connect to the engine, front oil galley plug? Shop and parts manual doesn't show this detail.
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Champion 6 Filter Hook-up
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Champion 6 Filter Hook-up
1948 M15A-20 Flatbed Truck Rescue
See rescue progress here on this blog:
http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/Tags: None
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Partial Flow Oil Filter on Champion 6
The OHV 6's have an Oil Pressure plugged port on the left side near the center of the block. But it sounds like you have the earlier flathead 6, those have to have a hard line to go around the front of the Head and down to one of the 1/8 in. pipe plugs in the Valve Lifter Oil Galleries above the Valve Doors. If there is a plug in the Oil Pump Cover that is not used for an Oil Pressure Guage, that one is also available.
Yes, the return goes into the Oil Filler Pipe.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Thanks, Wasn't sure where the supply should come from. Supposedly, I received line to hook it up neither seems long enough to go to the galley... Thought there might be a magical spigot hidden some where...1948 M15A-20 Flatbed Truck Rescue
See rescue progress here on this blog:
http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/
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Here are some pictures that might help.
This shows the pressure side with the fitting on the oil pump and the line up to the filter:
http://stude.vonadatech.com/images/E...90620_4367.JPG
In this shot you can see the return like (black hose to metal line) snaking around the back of the engine. There is probably a better way to route this but it works. Pay no attention to my head...
http://stude.vonadatech.com/images/E...90620_4408.JPG
And finally the (leaking) return feeding into the dipstick tube:
http://stude.vonadatech.com/images/E...90623_4453.JPG
I have heard the partial-flow filter does not actually do all that much but every time I change mine there is crud in the filter. I say it has to at least help!
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(I have two smarta$$ answers, and can't decide which is better/worse)....
(1) You're married, aren't you?
or
(2) Figures that an electrical engineer can't figure out plumbing....
Originally posted by JohnM15 View PostThanks, Wasn't sure where the supply should come from.
Supposedly, I received line to hook it up neither seems long enough to go to the galley...
Thought there might be a magical spigot hidden some where...HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)
Jeff
Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain
Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)
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Oh cool, pictures! nvonada, I thought that the filter goes on the other side of the engine? All the pictures of the champion flathead that I have seen show it bolted to #14 & #16 head bolts, straddling the #15 head bolt that also is one of the thermostat housing bolts. The bracket actually has a cutout for the thermostat housing.
DEEPNHOCK, Ur funny. Ya know there is a lot of commonality between pluming and electronics, people use a pluming analogy to explain electricity all the time. Course gravity play a much bigger part in the function of pluming...1948 M15A-20 Flatbed Truck Rescue
See rescue progress here on this blog:
http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/
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Here are the oil filter instructions:
What you need to be sure of is that your oil filter canister has a flow limiting orifice of about .045"-.060" diameter so that you maintain oil pressure.
Even partial flow filters are much better than no filter. At only 70% efficiency and 1.6 quart/minute flow, a partial flow filter will remove 99.999% of any small particles in the oil in 1 hour of operation. Many high-performance filters are now 95-98% efficient, so will clean up the oil even faster. Large particles, e.g. 25-50 microns or .001"-.002" in size will generally be removed in their first time through the filter, though it may still take 45-50 minutes to be get 99.999% of them.Gary Ash
Dartmouth, Mass.
'32 Indy car replica (in progress)
’41 Commander Land Cruiser
'48 M5
'65 Wagonaire Commander
'63 Wagonaire Standard
web site at http://www.studegarage.com
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Thanks Garyash1948 M15A-20 Flatbed Truck Rescue
See rescue progress here on this blog:
http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/
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These alternate locations will work, but are way to Hot a location on the right side, the factory preferred Left Side location is still the best.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Well, I got it mounted today. Turns out that the hard lines (one steel, one copper) that came with it worked out:
The steel line (return) was damaged so I had to cut the end off and make my own flair...1948 M15A-20 Flatbed Truck Rescue
See rescue progress here on this blog:
http://studem15a-20.blogspot.com/
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From time to time I see cars with copper lines substituted for the steel or rubber lines, but everything I have read on the subject says that copper will crack from the vibration over time. Keep a close eye on it or, after you get the car squared away, replace it with a properly fitted steel line."In the heart of Arkansas."
Searcy, Arkansas
1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
1952 2R pickup
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Filter kit
Depeding on your application. I also got a kit off ebay, but mine was for a later model 59 six, and it connected to the rear oil gallery port, where the oil pressure switch is located. It ran around the back of the engine and dumped into the filler tube. Pics show. I had a big leak a few months after the install because of the age of the kit. I replaced it with SS lines and put a small orifice plug inline. If you need details I could find them. If you are installing it on the early six then the routing is different because I have seen the filter mounted at the front of the block. If you need any help just ask.
Wiz.
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