PDA

View Full Version : Need opinions on Waterpump noise



MagikDraggin
05-02-2007, 03:36 PM
At idle, the waterpump on my GT Hawk emits a sort of 'muffled' grinding or growling sound.....kinda like a bearing going bad. But it's intermittant and not constant. And as soon as I increase the rpms above say, 1000 rpm, the sound goes away.

The waterpump is not leaking coolant and does a fine job of pushing enough coolant around so as not to overheat, even on an 88 degree day. Also, there is no wobble or freeplay in the fan to speak of.

Should I replace the thing or not? Or is the opinion such that it's something I can probably live with for quite awhile?

If it were yours, would you chance it going to South Bend?

Karl

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/MagikDraggin/Other%20Stuff/IM000986-reduced.jpg?
1962 GT Hawk 4sp

gordr
05-02-2007, 04:22 PM
If it were mine, I'd change it. At the very least, I'd pack a spare water pump with me. A Stude V8 water pump has to be one of the easiest to change in the entire industry. It'd be easy to change on the road, IF you have one with you. Don't count on getting one in a hurry in a strange town. Order one now if you don't have one, and change it at your convenience.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

Chucks Stude
05-02-2007, 04:23 PM
Are you sure there is no wobble? Did you take the belts off, and try to wiggle the waterpump? Do you have a fan clutch? It could be going out. I would not be inclined to try that trip without replacing the pump, because changing it on the side of the road is not too appealing !!

John Kirchhoff
05-02-2007, 04:35 PM
While you have the fan belt off, spin the blade and listen for any rumbling of the bearing. If it does, that means you've caught it in time before you're inconvienced or the fan blade goes through the radiator. If it's quiet when you spin it, spin the generator to make sure a bearing isn't giving out on it.

ST2DE5
05-02-2007, 04:46 PM
I have always thought everybody over tightens the belt on studes. I pull the generator back with my hand and tighten it down. Just a little tighter than slipping.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197/wagon56/MoparMeet2.jpg
7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
As soon as you find a product you like they will stop making it.

55s
05-02-2007, 05:47 PM
They are simple to change.

My inclination would be use one of those noise locators/mechanics stethescope) to make sure it really is the water pump first.

I probably would not change it, but I would take a spare with me, along with some coolant in a container, and I'll bet you don't have a problem. (If you don't take this preventative step, it will almost certainly fail - don't ask me why - ask someone called Murphy.)

Don't forget: If you really have to change the water pump, put a piece of cardbord against the rad core to prevent damage.

Good luck, I'll see you in South Bend.

Paul R

MagikDraggin
05-02-2007, 06:33 PM
Yeah, it does make good sense to have a replacement along with me, 'just in case'. As someone mentioned.....I know this "Murphy" character quite well and he's NO friend of mine!:(

Back to topic, when I removed the belt and fired it back up, there was no noise, so at least that confirms that it's not anything else going out. And no, there was no wobble or play or rumble or any sort of 'roughness' when turning/spinning the fan by hand.

Didn't notice any in the generator either. I tried the "stethoscope" method, first with a short length of garden hose and then with a 24" piece of 3/8" cold roll steel rod with a "bell-reducer" threaded on the listening end, and determined that for sure, the sound is indeed emanating from the vicinity of the water pump.

As another poster mentioned, it is easy to overtighten the drive belt.....and I made sure it had sufficient tension, and only enough tension to turn the fan and the generator.

I think I'll take the advice of the one who suggested changing it along the highway (no matter how easy it may be) would be a major inconvenience, and to go ahead and order one now and change it out ahead of time.

Thanks to all....

Karl

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/MagikDraggin/Other%20Stuff/IM000986-reduced.jpg?
1962 GT Hawk 4sp

rockne10
05-02-2007, 08:37 PM
quote:there is no wobble or freeplay in the fan to speak of.
"to speak of" does not sound absolute. With the engine off, if you can detect any inkling of lateral play in the shaft, it's time to replace the pump.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
http://www.4wheelz.net/virtual/images/rockne/1928_rockne03_f820_th.jpg'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

MagikDraggin
05-02-2007, 09:53 PM
quote:Originally posted by rockne10


quote:there is no wobble or freeplay in the fan to speak of.
"to speak of" does not sound absolute. With the engine off, if you can detect any inkling of lateral play in the shaft, it's time to replace the pump.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.


You're very observant and quite correct in your assessment....I was not being "absolute" when I said, there was no wobble or freeplay in the fan to speak of.

There is an infinitessimal amount of "play", which I attribute to standard assembly line "plus or minus something or other", tolerances. Certainly nothing that I would call, "excessive" or at least obvious.

I will exercise the route of caution and replace the pump. If after that, I still have the noise.....well, at least I know I will have a spare pump if I ever need it, heh, heh, heh.

Thanks for your input.

Karl

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/MagikDraggin/Other%20Stuff/IM000986-reduced.jpg?
1962 GT Hawk 4sp

gordr
05-02-2007, 10:58 PM
Karl, if you have the belt off, get your listening device, set it on the water pump or water manifold, and get a helper to spin the fan. If you hear any trace of rumble, change the pump. I'll bet you the bearings are dry, and the balls and races just beginning to develop flat spots. It will go downhill fast from now on.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

Karl
05-02-2007, 11:11 PM
CHANGE IT;)

63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
64 Avanti R3w/NOS
88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS

johnesmonde
05-03-2007, 12:09 AM
I just went through a similar thing after installing a new water pump on my Hawk. The horrendous noise turned out to be the pulley hitting th bolts on the pump. I had put in new lock washers on the pump that were thicker. I didn't realize the tolerance was that close. I pulled the fan and pulley and put thinner locks on the pump and the problem was solved. The same thing could happen if the fan pulley was installed askew and it was clipping the bolts.

Regards,
John

John Esmonde
Holland Landing, Ontario
Canada
'62 Hawk
'30 Chev Coach

chocolate turkey
05-05-2007, 10:56 AM
And while you are at it, change the coolant out if it's of any age older than a couple years....that's part of the preventive maintenance thing.

Brian

Brian K. Curtis

53k
05-05-2007, 02:29 PM
quote:Originally posted by MagikDraggin

At idle, the waterpump on my GT Hawk emits a sort of 'muffled' grinding or growling sound.....kinda like a bearing going bad. But it's intermittant and not constant. And as soon as I increase the rpms above say, 1000 rpm, the sound goes away.
The waterpump is not leaking coolant and does a fine job of pushing enough coolant around so as not to overheat, even on an 88 degree day. Also, there is no wobble or freeplay in the fan to speak of.
Should I replace the thing or not? Or is the opinion such that it's something I can probably live with for quite awhile?
If it were yours, would you chance it going to South Bend?

One additional thing to consider is- what happens to your radiator if the water pump gives up suddenly and the fan spins into your radiator? Doesn't happen often, but it DOES happen.


[img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine

JDP
05-05-2007, 03:20 PM
I agree with Paul, once had a fan let go on a Avanti and it took out the radiator and shroud. Also have had the fan go through the hood on my 41 Caddy.

JDP/Maryland

64 Commander
64 GT R2 clone-63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert-63
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

53STruck
05-06-2007, 07:04 PM
Hi, If one were to need a water pump for, say a '53 2R10, what would be a good place to get one? Can you change just the seal, and where might I get one of those?

Thanks, Joel

rockne10
05-07-2007, 09:54 PM
Welcome to the Forum, Joel.
Check out the vendors on this link
http://www.studebakervendors.com/

Get a parts catalog so you can order by part number and, if you haven't done so, join the Studebaker Drivers Club and receive the monthly magazine TURNING WHEELS. All the vendors you will need are there.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
http://www.4wheelz.net/virtual/images/rockne/1928_rockne03_f820_th.jpg'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

53STruck
05-08-2007, 10:39 AM
Thanks for the welcome! Joined the SDC a couple months ago, the local chapter a couple weeks ago. Looked through the vendors the other night. I even found out they were available thru NAPA, for a price. Thamks again, Joel

curt
05-08-2007, 06:04 PM
Tip on instaling the water pump:::::::) Use a bolt with the head cut off ( stud ) in two or three holes when bolting the new pump on. With two or three studs placed into the bolt holes, place the gasket and pump on to the manifold(block). After a few bolts are snug ( not tight bolts ) replace the studs with the proper bolts, then torque all bolts. The studs are a great guide and will hold the gasket and pump in correct position while working.

MagikDraggin
05-08-2007, 07:02 PM
quote:Originally posted by curt

Tip on instaling the water pump:::::::) Use a bolt with the head cut off ( stud ) in two or three holes when bolting the new pump on. With two or three studs placed into the bolt holes, place the gasket and pump on to the manifold(block). After a few bolts are snug ( not tight bolts ) replace the studs with the proper bolts, then torque all bolts. The studs are a great guide and will hold the gasket and pump in correct position while working.


That's a great idea Curt! Unfortunately, I'll have to try it the next time I have to replace the waterpump, as I just replaced mine this weekend, along with the spark plugs, which really needed some attention.

Now all I need, is to get the carburetor back from the rebuilder and I'll be able to fire the Hawk up and see if the fruits of my labor was in vain or not.

Karl

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/MagikDraggin/Other%20Stuff/IM000986-reduced.jpg?
1962 GT Hawk 4sp