Studebaker 289 with automatic transmission--What fluids to use

[aftontrix]

I am ready to drain the engine and transmission. What engine oil and transmission fluid would be best. Thanks

[53k]

I am ready to drain the engine and transmission. What engine oil and transmission fluid would be best. Thanks

You could get a wide variety of answers to this question. Personally, I use Valvoline VR-1 20-50 oil. I used to use Shell Rotella 15-40 diesel-rated oil, but they changed the service designation to "J" which doesn't have enough zinc for older engines. For the automatic I use Dextron/Mercon, but you can also use Type F (not FA). It will give you stiffer shifts than Dextron. Originally these trannies called for Type A fluid, but DO NOT use anything called Type A today.
The torque converter can be drained (unlike later cars). Rotate the torque converter until you see a pipe plug through the access hole in the lower center of the bell housing. Don't forget to re-install the plug after filling (don't ask me how I know).

[aftontrix]

53 k, thanks for the info. Sounds like the way to go. I will go with the same. I will also be sure and drain the torque converter. I assume I will be able to see it after I drop the transmission pan.
I read that the filter is a screen. Is it easy to access and I guess you just clean it? One last question, the Park position does not seem to hold. Is there something I can look for to find out what the problem is?

I use to live in "Wild and Wonderful" WV. Morgantown to be exact. I miss its beauty but not the Winters. Thanks again

[StudeRich]

/Cut/I assume I will be able to see it after I drop the transmission pan.
I read that the filter is a screen. Is it easy to access and I guess you just clean it?

No, you will not see the Torque Converter drain plug in the Transmission case. It is found as Paul said on the bottom of the Torque Converter Housing, through the hole.

The Filter Screen is readily available with the pan off, also new at Studebaker Vendors. You MAY be able to clean it.

[41 Frank]

The converter drain plugs are NOT located inside the transmission case. They are located in the converter housing, more commonly referred to as the bellhousing as Paul indicated. You access them by turning the flywheel gear until you see the plug through the access hole.

[rockne10]

One last question, the Park position does not seem to hold. Is there something I can look for to find out what the problem is?

Probably a broken Park pawl; a common problem when people use the transmission to hold their vehicle instead of the parking brake.

[Warren Webb]

I would disconnect the linkage & move the trans into the park position manually. If it holds in that position then your park pawl is ok. While your there check the condition of the rubber grommet on the linkage. Due to the age of these cars the grommet may be badly deteriorated or missing altogether. There should be one on both ends of the linkage-on the steering column under the hood & on the transmission. Lets us know what you find!

[53k]

I would disconnect the linkage & move the trans into the park position manually. If it holds in that position then your park pawl is ok. While your there check the condition of the rubber grommet on the linkage. Due to the age of these cars the grommet may be badly deteriorated or missing altogether. There should be one on both ends of the linkage-on the steering column under the hood & on the transmission. Lets us know what you find!

When I bought my (former) '64 Daytona convertible, it would pop out of Park (Powershift). Warren's soluition worked for me. Even though it was a floor shifter with much different linkage, it had still gotten out of adjustment.

[Tom Bredehoft]

Another unmentioned cause for miss-adjustment is old (many years old) front and rear engine mounts. The rubber deteriorates and the engine moves downward up to an inch. It can also move fore and aft and sideways. While it isn't easy, it's a lot (VERY LOT) cheaper to replace these than pull and have rebuilt the transmission only to find that the engine mounts were the problem all along. Once you have eliminated all the quick and easier fixes, and Park still doesn't work, then you can fix the transmission.

[aftontrix]

Boy, this is not working out very well. Obviously I am a novice mechanic. I cannot see any bolt or torque converter through the access hole. I assume that you have to go through the opening on the passengers side of the bell housing to loosen the bolt which then drains out through the access hole. However, I cannot see in there as a muffler is in the way. Before I remove the muffler and tailpipe I want to be sure this is correct. If not, then I am afraid this is not a Studebaker transmission. Someone changed out the differential (Oldsmobile), why not the transmission too. Thanks

[Tom Bredehoft]

There is a flat steel plate at or near the bottom of the bell housing, held on by (I think) four 1/4" screws. Take this off, you should be able to see the torque converter.

I wouldn't expect a transmission change unless there is an adapter plate in there somewhere.

[BobPalma]

Boy, this is not working out very well. Obviously I am a novice mechanic. I cannot see any bolt or torque converter through the access hole.

Understand that the converter drain plugs are not visible through the access hole all the time. Rather, they are only visible when the converter has been rotated and stopped at the point where the plug(s) can be seen.

With the battery disconnected so there is no chance of anyone "hitting" the starter or anything else going on while you are under there, use a large screwdriver or some other device to carefully engage the flywheel teeth and gradually rotate the converter until one drain plug appears.

Stop there and remove that drain plug.

With that drain plug out, rotate the converter exactly 180 degrees and look for the second drain plug. Remove it, too.

Obviously, go back and reinstall both drain plugs before continuing with the transmission fluid change. BP

[aftontrix]

Thanks everyone for the response. I think I know what I need to do now. However, I still have a problem, there is no plate covering the access hole in the side of the bell housing. I am sure it is not a good idea to leave it open so I need to find one. Is this something SI might sell? thanks again.

[bezhawk]

The hole in the side of the bellhousing is supposed to be open...for cooling purposes. The "cover" is nothing more than a piece of 'angle iron' sheet metal to deflect debris from entering. A similar but smaller one is located on the bottom. There should be an approximately 3/4" hole directly in the bottom center of the bellhousing. You can reach the torque comverter plugs through this opening with a 7/16 socket and short extension.
I use B&M Trick Shift Transmission fluid. It had the closest characteristics of "F" type fluid on the market.
I never use oil thicker than 30 weight unless the oil pressure is non existant. Thick oil keeps the rings from doing thier job. They are supposed to move freely in the grooves of the pistons and be able to seal against the cylinder walls.
Modern engines use 0-20 weight oil and they last a couple of hundred thousand miles. I don't care what anybody else says about this subject......unless you are trying to mask poor bearing clearences or running outragous compression ratios, you don't want to run thick oil....period.
I run 0-30 in my R1 Avanti and have run it in 100 degree weather and the hot oil pressure at idle is 40 lbs. (and I have driven the hell out of it like this for over ten years)
Of course, a zinc additive is now necessary.

[aftontrix]

Bezhawk, Thanks for the info. I had came to the conclusion that there was no cover as there are no bolt holes as someone previously described. I did see the small hole on the bottom but no luck removing the bolt (and there is only one not two). Someone has already rounded off the bolt head. I believe the only way to get the bolt out would be to remove the transmission which I am not ready to do at this point. I drained the pan and plan to replace the screen filter. The fluid that came out of the transmission looked good. I guess it will not hurt if the torque converter is not drained at this point. What do you think? I can tackle the bolt in the future when I pull the transmission for some other reason. I agree with you on the 30 wt oil. Thanks again for the info.