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removing radiator mount

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  • removing radiator mount

    How would I properly remove the channel the radiator sits in. Wanna take it out clean it up and paint it while engines out

  • #2
    Originally posted by atomicrm View Post
    How would I properly remove the channel the radiator sits in. Wanna take it out clean it up and paint it while engines out
    Just remove the bolts going in from the sides.
    JDP Maryland

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    • #3
      Just remove the bolts going in from the sides.

      And the bolts securing it to the frame, and don't loose count of the stacked washers on each side, as that is how the entire front sheet metal is located relative to the body.

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      • #4
        And whats tthe best way to clean and paint the tranny

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        • #5
          Originally posted by atomicrm View Post
          And whats tthe best way to clean and paint the tranny
          I use "Purple Power" degreaser. Pretty cheap and works really well. You can get it at most any parts store.

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          • #6
            I'm going to be doing the same thing too, but I have it worse than you...in the dim past, some bonehead has apparently tried to jack the car up by the radiator saddle and collapsed the lower radiator tank and bent the daylights out of the saddle. Amazingly, the radiator doesn't leak. The previous owner probably never knew. Sigh...

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            • #7
              Before you put a bunch of time and effort into repairing your radiator mount you should keep in mind that, depending on year and model, there are NOS mounts still available out there. I bought one at York for my Lark a couple years ago for around $25.
              Dan Peterson
              Montpelier, VT
              1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
              1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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              • #8
                If you are going to the trouble of removing/blasting/painting the rad support may I make a suggestion? the three holes on each side into which the machine screws that retain the radiator thread, I would weld some nuts behind them, because those are just regular coarse thread machine screws threaded into essentially thick sheetmetal, and quite often I've found those holes stripped on cars on which I'm working. If you put some nuts on there while it's out it'll be way easier than doing it in the car later. just a suggestion

                nate
                --
                55 Commander Starlight
                http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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                • #9
                  Great suggestions so far. Don't fix your old rad cradle. Tell us what kind of car you have and get a replacement (don't say Studebaker!).
                  Good Roads
                  Brian
                  Brian Woods
                  woodysrods@shaw.ca
                  1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

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                  • #10
                    That's a great idea (why didn't I think of that!) Mine is a 60 Hawk. I'll drag out the parts book and see who might have an NOS one and go on from there to decent pull-outs. I was not looking forward to straightening out the existing one, it's a mess.

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                    • #11
                      Geoff, I'm pretty sure it's the same part all C-K 56-64.

                      good luck

                      nate
                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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                      • #12
                        I am sure Nate is correct! And they should be a dime a dozen around you. How close is Sal??
                        Good Roads
                        Brian
                        Brian Woods
                        woodysrods@shaw.ca
                        1946 M Series (Shop Truck)

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