1955 commander stripped axle nut

[lworden]

Any suggestions on getting off a stripped rear axle nut. I put new rear brakes on my 1955 commander and stripped the rear axle nut when I went to grease axle. My thought was a Dremel tool and chisel.
I am a retired cement finisher not a mechanic. Thanks
Larry

[JGlenn]

Seeing as how it is stripped and must be replaced with a new one. Here is what I have always done: use a slightly smaller socket, usually 12 point works best, make socket fit on nut with BFH, use breaker bar to remove nut. Keep in mind that changing from standard to metric sockets can sometimes allow a smaller step to be made, if your socket is to small you will never be able to drive it over the nut. I advise the use of Harbor Freight cheap tools for this, so I don't feel bad about destroying a good socket. If this is a no go for any reason, I have also used cheap 6pt socket that fits, drill a 1/4" hole in each of the six sides, then slip the socket onto the nut and plug weld the holes. Again, this is really a last resort kinda thing, but I hope it helps. I have seen guys use a grinder to flatten the sides and use a large crescent too, but in my experience if it is rounded off its to tight to use a crescent.

[Bob Andrews]

Not sure what you mean. Is the nut indeed stripped, as in the threads are ruined and no amount of turning will take it off, or rounded off, as in the corners are gone so a socket won't grip?

If rounded off JGlenn gave good advice, if stripped your answer is cutting through it on opposite sides and splitting it. That could be done as you said, or someone really good with a cutting torch could carefully cut through until close, then finished off with a chisel. Afterward, the threads will need to be chased with the correct die.

[BobPalma]

Any suggestions on getting off a stripped rear axle nut. I put new rear brakes on my 1955 commander and stripped the rear axle nut when I went to grease axle. Larry

Larry: I hope you were not applying any grease to the tapered surface between the axle shaft and the brake drum hub. Those components must be squeaky-clean and bone dry before they are assembled and the axle nut torqued.
If any lubricant exists between them, the torque of the axle nut will cause the hub to "walk" up the slippery taper and split wide open. BP

[jackb]

and maybe split the axle later on.......

[JGlenn]

BP, thanks for the tip, considder it filed in my "stuff not to do" folder.

[lworden]

Thanks

I'm sorry that I wasn't more specific. The threads on the axle nut are stripped. The nut just turns. I used brake cleaner and the brake job went well. I should have left the axle nuts alone.
Looks like grinding and chiseling is the only thing to do.

I will have to order a book to see how to service the rearend.
Could I just put the carter key in and leave the nut. The nut is titened about 3/16" past the carter key hole. Thanks
Larry

[N8N]

I would not feel comfortable leaving it "as is," I'd get a new nut, and also pay extra special attention to the condition of the threads on the axle and give consideration to replacing the axle if they are in any way questionable. Unfortunately, if you replace the axle, you really ought to check the end play before you button it all up.

nate

[raoul5788]

I'm sorry that I wasn't more specific. The threads on the axle nut are stripped. The nut just turns. I used brake cleaner and the brake job went well. I should have left the axle nuts alone.
Looks like grinding and chiseling is the only thing to do.

I will have to order a book to see how to service the rearend.
Could I just put the carter key in and leave the nut. The nut is titened about 3/16" past the carter key hole. Thanks
Larry

Okay, now I'm the one that's confused. If the threads on the nut are stripped, does that mean the nut will turn completely around? If so, you should be able to get something behind it and pry outward, at the same time using a socket on it. That should get it off, no? What am I missing?

[1954khardtop]

Chip, Sometimes that trick works, sometimes not. I think the metal stripped from the threads plugs up the grooves so they don't follow the axle threads. Running the bad nut off over good axle threads might not be a good idea.

[raoul5788]

Chip, Sometimes that trick works, sometimes not. I think the metal stripped from the threads plugs up the grooves so they don't follow the axle threads. Running the bad nut off over good axle threads might not be a good idea.

Good point. The metal could be softer in the nut than the bolt, but not necessarily. It would be best to be cautious when you could end up having to change the axle!

[Tom Bredehoft]

The nut is tightened about 3/16" past the cotter key hole.

If this is the case, the hub is past redemption, it has been forced onto the taper 'way too far.

[Warren Webb]

The service manual says to torque the axle nut between 170 & 200 ft/lbs. I usually go to 170 then on to the next opening in the cottier window. As Bob said to remember the taper & hub must be absolutly clean before final assembly, no grease oil or anything on the mating surface. Thats alot of pressure. I bought a 1" torque wrench just for this to be sure of accuracy.