Lube rear axle's

[Felix Benet]

Anything special one has to do to re-pack the rear wheel bearings on a '64 Daytona?

Once the rear drums are pulled via a wheel puller......and the axles pulled.......does one have to use new grease seals etc.........I was told it is an involved process.......using micrometers to set the axles back in..........I had hoped this could be a plug-n-play situation...

Would appreciate as much info as possible before I attempt the 'deed':-)

Thanks in advance for the help.

[N8N]

if everything was working well before and not leaking and you are using the same axles and bearings I would just repack, reassemble, and then check your end play. if OK don't worry about it.

if you plan on having a long term/high mileage relationship with this car you may want to consider drilling the holes in the axle housings for the grease fittings and vents so you do not have to disassemble to repack bearings

good luck

nate

[jrlemke]

How do I locate the holes? Jim

[N8N]

hopefully someone has pics... the hole for the grease fitting I believe is 1/8 NPT and is located facing the rear of the car with the axle installed, on the part of the axle housing right behind the backing plate where the diameter of the axle tube narrows down (that is, outside of the inner grease seal but inside of the shoulder for the bearing.) The small vent is located pointing directly upwards in the same area, I believe that that is slightly farther outboard. these were discontinued in 1958 for some reason but other than the holes not being there the housings are substantially similar.

nate

[Felix Benet]

Not to sound stupid.which the wife advises I am......do I have to check end play?......I mean if I put back those outer gaskets in the same place...and...once the drums are off...what is the "PROPER" method of pulling out the shafts? How I wish the damned car had a rear end that bathed the bearing in hypoid fluid!..fyi..the bearings were previously repaced about 20k miles ago..but with modern lube I was told the bearings were good for over 30k easy...car is never driven in the winter snow ice salt situation.

if everything was working well before and not leaking and you are using the same axles and bearings I would just repack, reassemble, and then check your end play. if OK don't worry about it.

if you plan on having a long term/high mileage relationship with this car you may want to consider drilling the holes in the axle housings for the grease fittings and vents so you do not have to disassemble to repack bearings

good luck

nate

[Bud]

I use the brake drum as a slide hammer to remove the axle. Remove the wooodruff key from the slot in the drum, slide the drum back on to the axle, reinstall the nut just use a couple of turns on the nut as you want the drum loose enough on the axle to use to pull the drum against the nut to use as a slide hammer which will eventually pop the axle out of the housing. Do a thorough inspection of the bearing and race for wear, pitting and discoloration as most people aren't aware that the bearings must be repacked by hand and as a result, the bearings are seldom serviced. I do recommend checking the end play of the axles even if the old bearings are reused as I have found a few to have excessive end play. Bud

[Felix Benet]

Ok Bud.......how do I check end play?........and do I have to re-pack based upon what I said above?

I use the brake drum as a slide hammer to remove the axle. Remove the wooodruff key from the slot in the drum, slide the drum back on to the axle, reinstall the nut just use a couple of turns on the nut as you want the drum loose enough on the axle to use to pull the drum against the nut to use as a slide hammer which will eventually pop the axle out of the housing. Do a thorough inspection of the bearing and race for wear, pitting and discoloration as most people aren't aware that the bearings must be repacked by hand and as a result, the bearings are seldom serviced. I do recommend checking the end play of the axles even if the old bearings are reused as I have found a few to have excessive end play. Bud

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

You need a dial indicator mounted to the backing plate to measure the in and out play of the axle to the backing plate. Shim accordingly.

[Felix Benet]

What would happen if I just put things back as it was without checking end play......I mean all is fine now.

You need a dial indicator mounted to the backing plate to measure the in and out play of the axle to the backing plate. Shim accordingly.

[jackb]

lacking a dial indicator, re-installing your "in-place" set up would probably be OK. I say this having seen R/A's never taken apart for years with many miles of use and no problems. My old Stude dealer said he never pulled the axles for bearing packing only squirted grease into them with a hand gun and needle point end when servicing rear brakes........Caution: I regularly serviced my Champ truck's rear axle bearings every time I greased the front end. Result: greased pushed beyond the seals and coated the brake shoes for no rear brakes. I was then advised to grease the rear bearings, via the zerks (after hand packing) only every 10K miles...same as U-joints....!

[N8N]

You need a dial indicator mounted to the backing plate to measure the in and out play of the axle to the backing plate. Shim accordingly.

Or the CASO method...

after reassembling everything, bump the end of each axle shaft a few times to seat everything, then just check end play by moving one shaft back and forth by hand. If the end play is just about right - I think the spec is 3 thousandths or something like that - it will be enough to feel but not to see. Don't remember who told me that but it seems about right.

Of course, the *right* way to do it is with a dial indicator.

nate

[blackhawk61]

Here You go Between the inner seal and the Bearing. http://

[Bud]

The specs ar from .001 to .006 thousandths end play on the bearings. I have a dial indicator, but I usually adjust the clearance by feel. If the axles turn freely without binding and there isn't any appreciable end play, the adjustment is good. I always check the end play before I pack the bearings as it is easier for me to feel for binding or excessive end play without every thing full of grease. Bud

[1954khardtop]

After seeing Blackhawks picture I went out and checked mine. It has plugs slotted for a straight screwdriver where the fittings are in the picture. Would that be from the factory or did a p.o. do this? I looked for vent holes on top but didn't find any. How big would they be ? Possibly covered by dirt/rust? Thanks

[DEEPNHOCK]

That's right.
What they used to do was remove the slotted screw caps, screw in a zerk, give it a few shots of fresh grease, and replace the slotted screw caps.

After seeing Blackhawks picture I went out and checked mine. It has plugs slotted for a straight screwdriver where the fittings are in the picture. Would that be from the factory or did a p.o. do this? I looked for vent holes on top but didn't find any. How big would they be ? Possibly covered by dirt/rust? Thanks