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Lark61Conv
04-25-2007, 10:16 PM
I know I am new to the forum an Studebakers but I am going to ask the question anyway..Does anyone know where to start on a broken clock in a 61 Lark?



Dana Cortes
Hilton Head, SC

61 Lark Convertible

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w309/DCortes1/IMG_2104.jpg

showbizkid
04-26-2007, 12:25 AM
Bob Johnstone's site has a page about this. Check here:

http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/borgclock.txt

I'd try this first before you think about doing a wholesale movement replacement, just for originality's sake.

The quartz movement replacement is easy; I've done it on several Borg clocks over the years. The one thing you sacrifice is the sweep second hand - it will become a "click" second hand instead. If you can live with this, fine, but some cannot. A few years ago, someone was marketing a quartz kit that had a sweep movement, but it appears to be NLA now.


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard
http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

Lark61Conv
04-26-2007, 10:04 AM
Thank you! I will try it.

I would like to do whatever I can to keep it original.



Dana Cortes
Hilton Head, SC

61 Lark Convertible

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w309/DCortes1/IMG_2104.jpg

John Kirchhoff
04-26-2007, 10:20 AM
I'd first try to define "broken". My old clock was "broken" too until I took it apart, cleaned the contact points, put a few drips of WD-40 on the moving parts and then helped it get going by using a toothpick to gently turn the wheel with the clockspring. It's run for over six months now and has never missed a lick.

StudHawk60
04-26-2007, 04:06 PM
Here's another link that's a little more involved than the one listed above:

http://www.ncsdc.com/TechnicalPages/ClockRepair.htm

starlightchamp
04-26-2007, 09:56 PM
LIKE JOHN SAYS! SIMPLE-SIMPLE TO REPAIR. Most all early 50's clocks run by using a set of points, a spring to actuate, and
a wire wrapped magnet (solenoid) to reset. The points burn over time and stick. Take the clock apart, clean with an artist brush
soaked in alcohol. Then clean /file the points smooth. Manually pull the spring back and gently coach the balance wheel a few times.
Using a toothpick, apply a little silicon oil to each bearing point until the clock runs easily for an hour. Of course, one should remove
from the dash and do this on a clean workbench. Any battery, 6 volt or 12 volt will run the clock on the bench depending on
your car's system. I like having a clock running in my car as it was designed. Sure you can send it away for a "better" movement, but
then, why drive a classic ??

1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/125/368321841_7d3a05da00_t.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/185/367175252_40e3cec1d9_t.jpg

GTtim
04-26-2007, 10:29 PM
I pulled mine out of the dash about 3+ years ago, took it out of the case, hosed it down with carb cleaner, let it dry, realigned and filed the points, gave it a shot or two of really light oil, put it back in and it's been ticking like a champ ever since. I think the ticking of the clock, easily heard in a quite garage, and the occasional clunk of the winding mechanism add a lot to the experience of owning the collector car. It's kind of like the heart monitor in a hospital room or something like that.

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

rockne10
04-26-2007, 11:04 PM
If you can pull it out, clean it, lubricate it and make it work like new, you will not only be a happy camper, you will be a proud camper. If this does not work you can fall back to someone who will fix it like new, or replace it with a quartz movement.

Your question has probably been asked a couple dozen times in this forum over the past few years. You can find all the threads by using the "SEARCH" feature above. They will repeat pretty much what you've heard here, with the addition of some recommendations for folks who can do it for you, for a price.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/rockne10/51x2.jpg'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

Dick Steinkamp
04-27-2007, 05:43 PM
quote:Originally posted by GTtim
I think the ticking of the clock, easily heard in a quite garage, and the occasional clunk of the winding mechanism add a lot to the experience of owning the collector car. It's kind of like the heart monitor in a hospital room or something like that.


Tim...that description got to me.

I took the non op clock out of my '63 this afternoon, followed Starlightchamp's instructions, and it's now working like a top! Those ticking and clunk sounds alone were worth the hour or two. Thanks for the push :)

http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

JBOYLE
04-27-2007, 06:58 PM
Would the same instructions go for an Avanti clock?

63 Avanti R1 2788
1914 Stutz Bearcat
(George Barris replica)

Washington State

GTtim
04-27-2007, 11:09 PM
I think they are all the same.

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

GTtim
04-27-2007, 11:14 PM
Dick said:
I took the non op clock out of my '63 this afternoon, followed Starlightchamp's instructions, and it's now working like a top! Those ticking and clunk sounds alone were worth the hour or two. Thanks for the push :)

It's funny how the little things can make such a big difference. Every once in a while, someone will look in at the dash and say, "Hey, look the clock even works!". I go through the garage where the Hawk sits about a dozen times a day to get to the shop on the other side and the sound of clock gives a distinct atmosphere.
Happy trails,
Tim

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk