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'55 REAR BRAKE DRUMS & HUBS

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  • '55 REAR BRAKE DRUMS & HUBS

    Unable to get a good press fit on thr right side of my President rear brake drum to hub, same side that just fell off when I removed the assmebly with the hub puller. With 5 firmly tightened lug nuts along with the axle nut and cotter key, should that not be enough. I don't think the press fit is really necessary. Opinions/advice?

    '55 Commander
    '55 President
    \'55 Commander
    \'55 President

  • #2
    The press fit is needed unless you want the hub moving in and out on the taper in my opinion.

    64 Commander-64 Daytona
    64 GT R2 clone-63 GT R2
    63 Avanti R1
    63 Daytona convert-63
    63 Lark 2 door
    62 Lark 2 door
    60 Lark HT-60Hawk
    59 3E truck
    52 & 53 Starliner
    51 Commander

    JDP Maryland

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    • #3
      The wheel studs should be "swedged" to hold the brake drum to the hub...it's not a press fit. It's tough to find a shop equipped to do this now a days. It is possible to have the drum relatively loose on the hub and not have any problems. I had the left hand studs replaced on the left drum on my '54 10 years ago with right hand studs, and the studs were not swedged. That brake drum will come off the hub no problem once the wheel is removed. It has not caused me any problems in 30,000 miles.

      I'm not sure I understand JDP's answer. I don't think the hub moving on the taper would have anything to do with the drum swedged or not swedged on the hub.


      Dick Steinkamp
      Bellingham, WA

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      • #4
        I think that JDP is thinking about the fit of the hub to the axle. That must be pressed on the taper by properly torquing the axle nut.

        The drum to hub fit seems to be RHO's question. As Dick explains, it's a question of swaging (or not swaging) the studs. My Daytona also has "removable" rear drums. The studs are not swaged, but the drums are snug on the studs. Works fine for me. Sure makes it a lot easier to inspect/service the rear brakes. I have heard people insist that the studs "absolutely must" be swaged, but I have yet to hear an explanation better than "that's the way they made them at the factory, so it must be right".

        Jim Bradley
        '64 Daytona HT "Rerun"
        Jim Bradley
        Lake Monticello, VA
        '78 Avanti II
        sigpic

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        • #5
          Well, I guess this is a pretty good topic that across the wide world internet I could find really nothing very useful even about details of the process other than this which is far too much trouble:


          Between this helpful site, some emails received, and some local advice, it seems the concensus is that the swaging is not needed. With examples of cars traveling thousands of miles with no problem, that seems adequate enough. It's been a real pain just finding usable drums.

          '55 Commander
          '55 President
          \'55 Commander
          \'55 President

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