1963 Lark Daytona engine colors needed

[AndrewB]

I'm rebuilding an R1 engine from a 1963 Lark Daytona and I'm looking for the factory engine colors for the underhood components (block, valve covers, etc.).

Thanks,

Andrew

[StudeRich]

Everything is simi-gloss Black except the Chrome Air Cleaner, Valve Covers, Acorn Nuts, washers, Oil caps, dipstick tubes, dipstick and on early engines the Lifter Cover and bolts. Alternator and Viscous Fan Drive are bare Aluminum, Fan Blades Red/Orange.

Remember that they did not take the time we usually do, to paint each piece bottom and top, Heads, manifolds all (4), pan etc. They painted the entire Engine & Trans. Assembly, Fan Pulley to Trans. tail all the same color, and most of it at the same time, there was over-spray on exhaust Manifolds, but mostly bare, same on the Carter Super high output Fuel Pump.

Welcome to SDC and to the SDC Forum, tons of this kind of info is available in our Monthly Publication, TURNING WHEELS when you join, I am sure you will enjoy it.

[gohdes]

my mistake, I read "daytona" title, and did not see that it was an R1. Oops.

[StudeRich]

On mine, the engine block & heads black (as mentioned by studerich), but then the valve covers and trans. dipstick handle were yellow, oil breather caps and oil dipstick handle orange (along with fan blade). My air cleaner housing was black, but I painted it silver to have a contrast. I also chose to buy the chrome acorn valve cover nuts to dress it up a little.
This pic will help you visualize some.

Did you notice that Andrew mentioned he has a R1 Engine, and you gave him info for a standard 259/289.

I guess that might be a good question Andrew, if you do not see the remains of all this Chrome, IS your Engine an actual Jet Thrust Avanti R1 Engine (Serial # starts with JT) from a Avanti Powered Lark or just a 259/289 like gohdes car?

[StudeMichael]

Andrew's car is an R1. That is why the valve covers and air cleaner are chrome gohdes.

[gohdes]

Andrew's car is an R1. That is why the valve covers and air cleaner are chrome gohdes.

sorry, I guess I just focused on the title. I feel a little foolish now! Sorry!

[AndrewB]

The engine is a R1 Jet Thrust based on the casting number. I'm a complete Studebaker newbie so I take it that the R1 engine in the Lark is not it's stock 289. I'm in the process of rebuilding it for the owner and he expressed an interest in painting it the "stock" 289 Lark engine colors.

Andrew

[StudeRich]

R1 Avanti Powered '63 Lark

Well good on you Andrew and the car owner for restoring a '63 Lark and trying to build a Avanti Powered Lark or a "Super Lark" clone, I am glad to hear you are saving another Studebaker to keep it on the road.

I do need to warn you that if you are just starting with a bare JT 289 R1 block, one or the other or both of you need to do a whole lot more research. Because if the owner expects to do this correctly, it will take a LOT of special parts to build a real looking clone Super Lark or even just a real looking Avanti Powered Lark.

[AndrewB]

He is just want the engine, upon first glance, to look stock. Of course I'd love to do an R1 to R2 conversion but I don't think his pockets are that deep.

Andrew

[StudeRich]

That's cool Andrew, but I still don't get his motive though. Most people want either the PERFORMANCE or the LOOK or BOTH of an Avanti Engine to spruce up their Lark.

But if you do not have the R1 Pistons, Camshaft, Aluminum Cam gear, Baffled, crankcase breather equipped Oil Pan, distributor, Intake, Carb. Air Cleaner, Cool Fuel Recirculate System, Red Line Tach, 140 MPH Speedometer, Four Speed Trans. and all of the above mentioned Chrome, you get NEITHER!

[AndrewB]

StudeRich. The R1 was already in the car and running. I've pulled it out and will be doing a complete rebuild. It has all the R1 engine components but its bolted up to the stock automatic transmission and I doubt it has the tach or speedo. I don't want it to "look" like an R1 with the current chrome valve covers, etc.

Andrew

[ROADRACELARK]

Andrew, Just for clairification, the casting #'s won't nessessarily identify an "R1" engine. As Rich said, you need the actual engine serial number. It is located just ahead of the valve lifter cover, aka the valley pan, on the machined surface. It may require some scraping and solvent on a rag to make the numbers show. Hope this helps.

Dan Miller
Auburn, GA

[AndrewB]

The exact number escapes me right now but it started out with "JT"

Andrew

[Flashback]

Thanks for joining us Andrew. You won't receive a jail sentence for it not having all the above mentioned goodies.
Just to ease your mind. LOL Tex