View Full Version : Camber adjustment modification

04-23-2007, 08:30 PM
My 53K has excessive negative camber at its lowered ride height. Has anyone come across an upper inner shaft mounting kit that transforms the stock two bolt fixed mounting to an adjustable shim style setup? I recall seeing a simple steel angle setup somewhere.

Alternatively has anyone tried elongating the fixed position frame bolt holes to give some adjustability?

53 Starliner modified

41 Frank
04-23-2007, 09:16 PM
The upper control arm crosshaft can be turned 180 degrees after removing the bolts, it is an offset crosshaft so this will give you a little less negative camber.

04-24-2007, 10:14 AM
quote:Originally posted by 41 Frank

The upper control arm crosshaft can be turned 180 degrees after removing the bolts, it is an offset crosshaft so this will give you a little less negative camber.

Thanks...the manual says the flip gives approximately 3/4 degree extra. I need more than that, as much as 3 to 5 degrees. The shaft would have to be moved outward about .250" to .312".

53 Starliner modified

Mike Van Veghten
04-24-2007, 12:18 PM
A combination of rotating the excentric (outside pin) and flipping the shaft (inner) might get you closer than you think. Especially if both adjustments are adjusted fully the wrong way now.

Has the car been crashed on that side?


04-24-2007, 01:37 PM
If adjustments don't work, you could just use a piece of heavy angle iron and then mount the inner shaft to the vertical part of the angle and use shims there as needed.

Make sure you inspect the part of the frame where the inner shaft mounts for cracks, and add a reinforcement plate or hardened fender washers to reinforce (whether or not repairs are needed) this is a common area to find cracking on these cars, esp. the earlier ones.


55 Commander Starlight

04-24-2007, 08:05 PM
Thanks to Bob Johnstone for reminding me where I saw the design concept to use an angle bracket. It is on his Avanti website
http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechx3.html. Nate, likewise you are on the same page, so to speak. I intend to try this out asap.

53 Starliner modified

Mike Van Veghten
04-25-2007, 12:03 PM
Mac -

If you do that (angle iron), you most definatly do both sides...even if only one side needs it.

You will (most likely) be altering the angle at which the arm works..or its pivot point location.
Actually making it worse performance wise. So to make sure both tires act the same while going around corners...do this change to both sides, so both sides will act the same.


04-26-2007, 01:50 AM
It was mentioned on the Racing Studebaker forum that the upper inner
pivot needs to DROP in relation to the lower pivot for better handling.
This was done on the R3 cars by Studebaker in the 60s. By making an
angled mount you will be moving the upper pivot UP, which is the wrong
direction - thats what Mike is refering too. One of the things on my
long hitlist is an replacement upper control arm - if its possible. It
was also mentioned that perferably the upper arm should be longer then
the factory arm, so basically the upper inner pivot needs to go in and
down - but the frame is in the way.;)

Oh .. and keep in mind that your angle iron will be able to flex, so
it would be wise to add gussets at each end to minimize that effect.


'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires