Latest Studebaker Avanti inquiries for the experts?

[edpjr]

Two things:
(1) Would the original underhood insulation from a '63 model contain asbestos? I'm preparing to replace it and need to know how far to go with respiratory precautions, retrieval and disposal.

(2) All of the sudden the auto trans wants to hang up when shifting from 2nd-3rd manually. It seems worse under full throttle. No problems observed if car is left in "Drive." Somebody please tell me there's an easy fix?

Thanks and regards.

[JDP]

Two things:
(1) Would the original underhood insulation from a '63 model contain asbestos? I'm preparing to replace it and need to know how far to go with respiratory precautions, retrieval and disposal.

(2) All of the sudden the auto trans wants to hang up when shifting from 2nd-3rd manually. It seems worse under full throttle. No problems observed if car is left in "Drive." Somebody please tell me there's an easy fix?

Thanks and regards.

No asbestos to worry about, The manual upshift issue may be a sticky valve. A can of Transmedic and/or a fluid change would be my first step.

[StudeRich]

Probably and hopefully the worst scenario is it needs a Band and possibly throttle Pressure adjustment.

[edpjr]

Thanks. The fluid and filter were changes about 6 months ago. I can certainly try a can of Transmedic. I used to use it in my '59 Lark VIII.

No asbestos to worry about, The manual upshift issue may be a sticky valve. A can of Transmedic and/or a fluid change would be my first step.

[edpjr]

Thanks. How difficult are the bands to get to and adjust?

Probably and hopefully the worst scenario is it's needs a Band and possibly throttle Pressure adjustment.

[Werdegast]

i would remove and clean the govenor behind the stamped plate on the tailshaft.

Two things:
(1) Would the original underhood insulation from a '63 model contain asbestos? I'm preparing to replace it and need to know how far to go with respiratory precautions, retrieval and disposal.

(2) All of the sudden the auto trans wants to hang up when shifting from 2nd-3rd manually. It seems worse under full throttle. No problems observed if car is left in "Drive." Somebody please tell me there's an easy fix?

Thanks and regards.

[StudeRich]

Not too bad at all, the Front band that you need for 2nd. is on the right side of the case on the outside, the Low/Reverse Band is inside of the oil pan.

[okc63avanti]

Thanks. How difficult are the bands to get to and adjust?

Ed if you would like I could send a PDF file with procedure for adjusting the bands. I assume your Avanti is still PowerShift equipped vs. a GM trannie, just let me know.

[edpjr]

That would be great. It's still original trans. Thanks.

Ed if you would like I could send a PDF file with procedure for adjusting the bands. I assume your Avanti is still PowerShift equipped vs. a GM trannie, just let me know.

[okc63avanti]

That would be great. It's still original trans. Thanks.

Ed,

My scanner is malfunctioning so I couldn't scan the actual pages from my repair manual but here is the procedure for adjusting the front and back bands. I haven't done it before and don't know if the Studebaker adjusting tools are unique or similar to any adjusting tool that a trans shop would have for working on other Borg-Warner auto trannies of that period in time.

Front Band
1. Remove transmission oil pan, gasket and screen.
2. Loosen the front servo adjusting screw locknut two full turns.
3. Install adjusting tool gauge block between the servo piston rod and adjusting screw.
4. Place the front band adjusting tool No. J-5880, on adjusting screw and tighten until the tool overruns. Back off the adjusting screw one complete turn and torque locknut to 20-25 ft. lbs.
5. Replace the oil pan, gasket and screen and fill transmission to proper level.

Back Band
1. Remove the inspection hole cover from the right side of the center console (under carpet).
2. Loosen the adjusting screw locknut.
3. Place the rear band adjusting tool No. J-5883 on the adjusting screw and tighten screw until the wrench overruns, back off the adjusting screw 1-1/2 turns and torque locknut to approximately 35-40 ft. lbs. NOTE: It is important the adjusting screw be backed off 1-1/2 turns to avoid damage to the band and servo.
4. Replace the inspection hole cover.

[N8N]

here's some reading for you

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?17207-Band-adjustment-on-a-1956-Flightomatic&highlight=flightomatic+adjustment

http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/transmission/mm60fom/mm60FOM.html

I did the adjustment on a '63 FOM in my '55 (before I converted it to a 4-speed) using the 1/4" spacer and tighten/back off method, because I didn't have the special J-tools either. I wasn't having any issues with my trans though, I just had the pan down to change the fluid and to try to stop it from leaking. It shifted fine both before and after adjustment (I did have to play with the throttle linkage some to get it to kick down properly)

nate

[DEEPNHOCK]

Before you go around messing with transmission adjustments...
Check your trans mounts and engine mounts...

[Rerun]

" the auto trans wants to hang up when shifting from 2nd-3rd manually. "

Can you be a little more descriptive of "hang up"? Do you mean that the engine revs during the shift, that the car wants to slow down, or that the shift occurs later than the manual move of the lever to the D position?

If it shifts late, I would be suspect of the throttle linkage adjustment, which affects shift points. Since this change was sudden, check for a broken motor mount which can influence this somewhat delicate adjustment. The shop manual details the adjustment procedure.

Also, the throttle linkage rod between the bellcrank and the carburetor has an internal spring for "kickdown". If this spring were broken, it can also affect the shift points.

While properly adjusting the bands is always a good idea, When the transmission is in high range, both bands are released. If the intermediate band servo were hanging up and not releasing the band, it would be fighting the clutches, and something would have to slip or break.

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Before you go around messing with transmission adjustments...
Check your trans mounts and engine mounts...

I would agree with this advice... on closer inspection I did not have any rear mounts left with the deteration of the rubber from the oil. I changed the rear mounts and my shifting problems went away. What happens here is the drooping transmission causes the pressure regulator lever to come forward and the shift happens at the wrong time. Check those rear mounts first.

[edpjr]

Thank you all very much for the info. My description of the problem was poor, and I'm sorry. IF you leave the car in drive it works fine. It will shift from 2nd to 3rd and downshift into passing gear. However, if you take off in low, sometimes when trying to manually shift from 2nd to Drive, it hangs like something's obstructing the shifter lever. Now I'm wondering about those mounts. This problem is new, and was not observed over the 1 1/2 years I've owned the car.

" the auto trans wants to hang up when shifting from 2nd-3rd manually. "

Can you be a little more descriptive of "hang up"? Do you mean that the engine revs during the shift, that the car wants to slow down, or that the shift occurs later than the manual move of the lever to the D position?

If it shifts late, I would be suspect of the throttle linkage adjustment, which affects shift points. Since this change was sudden, check for a broken motor mount which can influence this somewhat delicate adjustment. The shop manual details the adjustment procedure.

Also, the throttle linkage rod between the bellcrank and the carburetor has an internal spring for "kickdown". If this spring were broken, it can also affect the shift points.

While properly adjusting the bands is always a good idea, When the transmission is in high range, both bands are released. If the intermediate band servo were hanging up and not releasing the band, it would be fighting the clutches, and something would have to slip or break.