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  • Right Ventilator Control

    I have a 51 Champion, with the type 1 (early) control for the right ventilator. This is a push/pull knob left of the steering wheel on the lower dash (see picture below). The operability is very hard and requires a lot of effort to open/close the ventilator. I thought I would lubricate or even replace (if I could purchase a new one) the cable assembly. I also considered just buying some choke cable and replacing just the cable portion.

    Here's the mystery! I don't see any way to remove the old one, without cutting the cable. When I remove the escutcheon, (see photo)the knob must be removed to pull the assembly out from behind. This knob does not have a set screw! The climatizer and light switches which are of similar looking design, do have set screws. How would one either lubricate or remove/replace this? Even if I bought a new one, how could I get it in? All suggestions appreciated.




    Las Vegas, NV
    '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

  • #2
    Paul,
    The knob "may" have threads, and just screw off. Try that.

    Jim
    "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

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    • #3
      The knob will turn both ways, but not screw off. If I force it off, then I have no way to re-attach it, since it needs to withstand pulling force to operate the ventilator. The shaft seems to be "keyed" it is not round, it has a flat edge. This makes me believe that the knob should have a set screw. What gives?

      Las Vegas, NV
      '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

      Comment


      • #4
        The knob doesn't seperate from the wire. There should be a nut on the back side of the dash. Once you turn it off the brass threaded tube the whole assembly should pull out through front of the dash. That is after you have removed the fasteners and clips that connect it to the door on the other end. Studebaker International lists the cable assembly, part no. 294063X1 in thier 2006 catalog for $20.

        Dan Peterson
        Montpelier, VT
        1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
        1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)
        1962 Lark V-8 Regal Convertible
        Dan Peterson
        Montpelier, VT
        1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
        1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)

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        • #5
          Got it... thanks. For that price I'll order a new one rather than try to lube or fix the old one. This was just one more example of some of the o****er-intuitive things I'm learning about this car. My mistake was assuming that all the knobs would be installed the same way. I'd love to pick the brain of some of the designers - It turns out that this design is a great idea, just not one I would have figured out without help.

          Las Vegas, NV
          '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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          • #6
            Look at the base of the knob if you see a small slot, then the knob has a spring clip that fits into a groove in the cable shaft. Insert a small blade screwdriver into the slot, depress the clip and pull the knob off the shaft.

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            • #7
              bones, I think that style of knob didn't appear on Studes until '55.
              Some Stude control cables had the knob, shaft & wire as one "assembly" and the spiral-wound "tube" as another. You'd buy them seperately as required. This particular vent control cable has an L-shaped connector on the business end of the wire that keeps the "button & wire", as they call it, from coming out of the "tube". The visible slots in the chromed bezel afford you a way to hold that bezel while you turn the nut behind the instrument panel.

              Miscreant adrift in
              the BerStuda Triangle


              1957 Transtar 1/2ton
              1960 Larkvertible V8
              1958 Provincial wagon
              1953 Commander coupe

              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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              • #8
                I ordered a new one from SI for $20. It appears this assembly isn't "lube friendly" and rather than mess around, I figured a new one was better. I successfully "repaired" the hood release cable by puchasing a generic manual choke control for $4 and using the cable to replace the kinked, rusted hood release. This is the same type of cable, so I mistakenly thought I could do the same with the ventilator control.

                Las Vegas, NV
                '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

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                • #9
                  Hi,
                  I have the same problem with my 51 Champion. The front of the steel bushing that goes through the dash is flatter on mine. How do you get the nut off the back? There's virtually no clearance to the bottom of the dash.

                  Also, how do you install the ventillator spring on the door?

                  Thanks much,
                  Steve

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