View Full Version : Puller Set J-8111 and HM 925-12 Protector

04-22-2007, 07:33 AM
In my previous post (Harmonic Balancer Removal), I guess I wasn't clear:D. I use the term Harmonic Balancer, the shop manual uses the term Vibration Damper. So I'll start trying to refer to it as the Damper.

The Shop Manual calls for a puller set J-8111 to be used. I don't have one and don't know where to get one. I don't want to take the time to sift through E-Bay, because this is one of the last items to be put on my replacement engine before I start it. Any suggestions for a substitute or ideas as to how to use some other type of puller so I don't damage the Damper?

I only need to remove the pulley from one engine to another. The problem is I have to remove the damper too because the pulley bolts are [u]</u>much[u]</u> longer on the A/C pulley set.

Please send help!![xx(]

Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

04-22-2007, 07:55 AM
A standard slotted 3-4 leg puller will work fine.

64 Commander-64 Daytona
64 GT R2 clone-63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert-63
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

04-22-2007, 08:25 AM
I can't remember what I used, either a standard steering wheel puller or a standard "harmonic balancer puller" from my FLAPS (I have both; one or the other will fit.)

Make sure you protect the threads in the nose of the crank somehow, whatever you use. A simple flat disc of steel would be fine, or whatever you have laying around in your scrap pile. Whatever comes with the harmonic balancer puller likely will not work as the threads in a Stude crank are a lot larger than anything on a brand-x.

edit: more thoughts, this may already be known to you but it's worth throwing out there... like the flywheel, the crank hub is NOT drilled with six evenly spaced holes, everything will fit on one way and one way only. So don't force anything when reassembling; if you are not repainting the pulleys it might help to make a chalk mark on them so you don't have to index each piece individually. You may also want to get a new set of rubber cushions for the damper while you're doing this job; they're cheap.


55 Commander Starlight

04-22-2007, 10:37 AM
I'm thinking that to protect the threads, maybe I can leave the center bolt in to cushion everything. I will check Autozone this afternoon for a 3 or 4 leg puller. Thanks for the ideas.

Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

04-23-2007, 05:35 PM
I don't recall needing a puller for the harmonic dampener (balancer). Loosen the crank bolts, pull off the pulleys, and the damper (which is held onto the bolts with a rubber insulator) should come off fairly easily.

THEN, you will need a puller to get the crank hub off. The hub is a real pain in the butt. You MUST USE A PULLER, protect the threads (very important, thread size uncommon and dies hard to come by), then USE A PUSHER to re-install.

I made my own puller and pusher, but do it the easier way and just buy it.
Go to Studebakerpart.com and go to specialty tools.
Here's a direct link: https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/parts/agora.cgi?page=tools.html
Also you can get it from Fairborn Studebaker. Go to their Engine rebuilding page and you'll find the pullers hidden in there.
Other Studebaker vendors probably have some too, but these guys have specifically made ones that are real nice.

Best Regards,
Eric West
"The Speedster Kid"
Sunny Northern California
Where the roads don't freeze over and the heat doesn't kill you.
And an open road is yours to have -only during non-commute rush hours 9am-4pm and 7pm to 7am (Ha, ha, ha)