removing caked-on oil, grease, and crud

[pyrodork]

i searched for a post on this subject, but wasn't able to come up with anything specifically. i read that on smaller projects, lacquer thinner or easy-off oven cleaner will work. i'm trying to clean up the outside of my oil filter housing so i can paint it up before i install it, so i'll try those (unless there's other suggestions)...

but what about the engine itself? i did a google search and found something about finding a shop to steam clean it, but that seems expensive. i may be asking too much, but i'm looking for cheap, yet effective, on a budget. need not be perfect, though. i'm not doing this to show-quality. i just want something nice to look at under the hood and to let the engine run cooler.

[JRoberts]

Try EZ Off oven cleaner. Spray the area you are cleaning up and let it sit for a couple of hours. I used a power washer to rinse the stuff off. It works pretty well.

[sweetolbob]

If you want the paint gone then I use lacquer thinner but I just cleaned all the front suspension parts prior to a rebuild on my 83 Avanti suspension by dropping them in three gallons of cheap paint thinner in a container after I scraped a lot of the accumulated grease and grime with a putty knife. I let them soak 6-8 hours followed by a light wire brushing and rinse, hung them on wires to dry and a quick prime and paint left a lot of nice looking parts.

I like any decent spray engine cleaner for under the hood cleaning followed by a high pressure spray after it sets wet for 15 to 20 minutes. But be sure, prior to spraying you seal up any entries into the engine with plastic and tape to keep the crud and water out.

Bob

[(S)]

The most effective way I have learned is a bunch of sizes of scrapers, followed by steel brushes. Use them by hand, use them on a drill motor, They are the fastest way. Use chemicals after the main crud is gone so the paint sticks....... I use and old spray gun loaded with laquor thinner or wax and grease remover for the final blast. Set the gun on a pin point spray, and blast away.

[Aussie Hawk]

The most effective way I have learned is a bunch of sizes of scrapers, followed by steel brushes. Use them by hand, use them on a drill motor, They are the fastest way. Use chemicals after the main crud is gone so the paint sticks....... I use and old spray gun loaded with laquor thinner or wax and grease remover for the final blast. Set the gun on a pin point spray, and blast away.

From my experience the removal of old oil and grease, especially built up grease dirt, from engines or chassis is a process, and you get out of it what you put in, in time and energy. Whatever you use it will have to be well lubricated by elbow grease :-) I remove as much of the heavy build manually with scrapers, then I use liquid caustic soda, at about 10% concentration in a spray bottle on the affected areas - DO NOT GET ANY ON ALLOY SURFACES, the caustic will eat it! AND !!!! use gloves, long sleeves, goggles (full face shield preferably) and a MASK. Oven cleaner is mostly caustic with a sticking agent). Leave for about 30 minutes then hose off, a high pressure cleaner is the best. Also keep this cleaner off your pain work. I work in the chemical industry and use 50% caustic often, if you are inexperienced handling this product be very careful it can blind within 30 seconds if you get it in your eyes.

[52 Ragtop]

I use Purple Power, available at your local FLAPS, instead of diluting it, use it straight, be sure to wear rubber or latex gloves. First step is to scrape as much off as you can, then spray it down and let it soak in. When I cleaned up my Avanti frame, I soaked it down, then used a "Scotchbrite" pad and wiped it down.IF you do not want to ruin paint, do not use the Scotchbrite pad! as that will sand, or scuff the paint! As Aussie Hawk said, you'll get out of it what you put into it! Have "lots of fun" and wear clothes that you "don't care about"

Jim

[Skip Lackie]

The old tried and true method is to mix Gunk concrentrate (comes in a gallon can, not a spray) with kerosene or other solvent (gasoline works great, but is REALLY dangerous!), then brush it on with a stiff parts-cleaning brush. The mixture can be left on for an hour or so to soften the crud up before brushing again. Gunk is a detergent that can then be hosed off.

[5brown1]

A second for Purple Power. Great stuff and reasonable price. Spray it on and watch the grease run off. And it is safe.

[(S)]

I do this on a regular basis. One thing pretty important I did not stress enough, is that once you put any chemicals on crud, you have a mess. Unless you have a good hot pressure washer, you'll have a mess with each application of chemical. I am a 'green shop' so I do it different I guess. I can't just wash it down the drain.

[(S)]

a few more shots

[PackardV8]

The quickest, easiest way is to go to a commercial wash bay at an off hour, so this procedure isn't holding up a line of cars impatiently and making one feel rushed. Wear clothes you are prepared to throw away and bring a change of clothes. With the engine warm, spray on or brush on whatever of the cleaners previously recommended. The underside of the pan, around the bellhousing is the most difficult to reach. Lying on cold, wet, dirty concrete is no fun and you haven't even started the worst part. Use a round stiff bristled parts brush to work the cleaner into the crevices. Let it work for about ten minutes. Then use a scraper to dislodge as much crud as possible. Remove the air cleaner and cover the carburetor opening and distributor cap with plastic bags and strong rubber bands. Plan on drying the inside of the distributor afterward. Then with a stack of quarters or a credit card, start the pressure washer with soap cycle. Start at the front and the top, working toward the back on each side of the engine. Don't forget under the intake manifold at every opening. Piles of crud hide on top of the bellhousing, so get behind the distributor and rocker covers as best possible. Then, back on the wet, now really nasty concrete to hit the oil pan and the bottom of the bellhousing. Switch to rinse cylcle and do it all again. Dry the distributor, change clothes and drive 'er home.

jack vines

[gearhead49]

I like POR 15 Marine clean.
Simple Green.
And a good power washing.

[Edsel G. Tattooer]

I just cleaned my 52 chevy truck. I used Gunk foamy cleaner and a pressure washer. It had never been cleaned as far as I could tell. In the process I found out I have a chrome valve cover and it looks pretty good Not great but good enough to work on and finish the job piece by piece.

[nvonada]

+3 for Purple Power. I use this on cosmoline-encrusted firearms too. Like any paint prep job the more time you spend up front the better the results. Scrape, scrape, scrape then clean, clean, clean. Oven cleaner will work but is very caustic and can attack some metals and plating. Lacquer thinner is dangerous stuff too. Kerosene is much safer and works just fine if you need a solvent.
There are a hundred ways to do this. Here is how I did mine:
http://stude.vonadatech.com/EngineClean.htm
You might also run into old undercoating. I have found that trying to soften this chemically just makes a mess. A hair dryer or heat gun and a scraping tool seem to work best for me.

Nathan

[Werdegast]

Many years ago I was able to bring my hawk to a local car wash.......I brought a half ton walker Floor jack and jack stands...I think i paid the owner 25.00 and spent about one hour with the steam wand...simply amazing what steam does to grease.....some gas stations have Steam Jenny's.......they steam and utilize a solvent soap to wash.

The quickest, easiest way is to go to a commercial wash bay at an off hour, so this procedure isn't holding up a line of cars impatiently and making one feel rushed. Wear clothes you are prepared to throw away and bring a change of clothes. With the engine warm, spray on or brush on whatever of the cleaners previously recommended. The underside of the pan, around the bellhousing is the most difficult to reach. Lying on cold, wet, dirty concrete is no fun and you haven't even started the worst part. Use a round stiff bristled parts brush to work the cleaner into the crevices. Let it work for about ten minutes. Then use a scraper to dislodge as much crud as possible. Remove the air cleaner and cover the carburetor opening and distributor cap with plastic bags and strong rubber bands. Plan on drying the inside of the distributor afterward. Then with a stack of quarters or a credit card, start the pressure washer with soap cycle. Start at the front and the top, working toward the back on each side of the engine. Don't forget under the intake manifold at every opening. Piles of crud hide on top of the bellhousing, so get behind the distributor and rocker covers as best possible. Then, back on the wet, now really nasty concrete to hit the oil pan and the bottom of the bellhousing. Switch to rinse cylcle and do it all again. Dry the distributor, change clothes and drive 'er home.

jack vines