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hydralic clutch problem, how do I bleed it to make it work?

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  • hydralic clutch problem, how do I bleed it to make it work?

    I replaced the master cylinder in my 1949 Champion. I bled all of the brakes, but could not get an action out of the clutch. It just drops to the floor. I bled the small cylinder next to the master cylinder, but it did no good. How do I get the clutch to work? I was told that I needed to pump the brake pedal at least 150 times before I would feel any action, but after 250 there was no improvement. I am completely stumped on how I should proceed. I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.

  • #2
    The clutch is operated with a mechanical linkage,it is not hydraulic. The little cylinder you bled next to the master cylinder is the hill holder I assume. As far as the brakes not coming up you must not be bleeding the brakes as described in the shop manual. In other words pump the brake pedal then hold it down while someone cracks the wheel cylinder bleeder open starting with the longest line.
    Frank van Doorn
    Omaha, Ne.
    1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
    1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
    1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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    • #3
      I don't know who told you to pump the pedal 150 times, but I have grave doubts about their knowledge. If you were properly bleeding the brakes there would have to be a major problem somewhere to not bleed the air out in that many pumps. Since the master cylinder is under the floor, you probably got air in the front and rear lines so only a proper bleeding will make the brakes right. If you had a car with a firewall mounted master cylinder the air MIGHT escape through the master cylinder as you pumped.
      Frank is right about the clutch. The linkage is mechanical and is not effected by the brakes. If your car has a hill holder the clutch will keep the brakes on as long as it is held down. A floppy clutch pedal usually means your clutch pedal return spring is disconnected or broken. If the clutch pedal falls completely to the floor it must be disconnected or the linkage is broken.
      Last edited by 52-fan; 10-06-2010, 10:55 AM.
      "In the heart of Arkansas."
      Searcy, Arkansas
      1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
      1952 2R pickup

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      • #4
        You may be best served by obtaining the shop manual and chassis catalog and listening less to questionable advice.

        Available here:
        Last edited by rockne10; 10-07-2010, 04:47 PM. Reason: added resource
        Brad Johnson,
        SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
        '56 Sky Hawk in process

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        • #5
          I believe someone might have been trying to pull a joke on you when they told you to pump the pedal 150 times...........
          Paul
          Winston-Salem, NC
          Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com
          Check out my YouTube channel here: www.youtube.com/@r1lark
          Check out my NOS Studebaker parts For Sale here: http://partsforsale.studebakerskytop.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
            You may be best served by obtaining the shop manual and chassis catalog and listening less to questionable advice.
            Absolutely, I can't imagine working on a 61 year old orphan car without them! Russ Farris
            1963 GT Hawk R-2 4-speed
            1964 Avanti R-1 Auto

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