What is the preferred (most efficient?) sequence of restoration, (body, chassis, engine,....???)

[bsrosell]

hi again, standing out in the shop contemplating the '57 Golden Hawk project. The only other car I've restored is a 1930 Model-Ford coupe. A little bit smaller and less intimidating, and easier to 'bite-size' each part of the car regardless of how you break it up.
With this full-size beast, I'm looking for suggestions on what has worked well for you experienced Stude folks. I plan to do the body work myself, up through final-color anyway, at which point I'd bring the body piece-meal to a paint shop. (fenders, trunk, hood, doors loose, with remaining body on a trailer).
The chassis, I've not decided for sure if I'll COMPLETELY disassemble the differential and Flightomatic transmission (supposedly <64,000 original miles) and remove springs, etc.. etc.. or not. If so, probably would sand-blast it and prime. If not, wire-brush and POR15 chassis black...
And probably leave engine until last, just because it is the most fun (for me, I HATE the body work!) and gives me something to look forward to. Anyway, here is my first-blush sequence:

Remove seats, (done), and interior panels
Remove wheels/drums (done)
Remove gas-tank
Remove hood
Remove engine, radiator, headlights...
Remove all stainless (and chrome) trim (how do you DO that, by the way?? Pry it off and pull the little clips out with it? Or should you nip the clips from the back side where possible to avoid bending the stainless trim pieces???)
Remove windows/glass/windshield
Remove steering column and power steering (might have to do this prior to engine...)
Remove doors
Remove front fenders
Remove deck-lid
Remove tail fins and white 'facade' piece on fins
Remove body from chassis (I have an "H-frame" that connects to my cherry-picker)

Chassis work here? OR
Have body, fenders, doors, etc... media-blasted (hoping to find someone who comes to my place with portable unit)
With all sheet metal blasted, photograph and/or mark areas to be cut out.
Prime everything with two-part epoxy primer immediately.
At this point, order the new sheet-metal panels (I'll for sure need front-floor pans, rockers, and the rear-end of each front fender)
Cut out rusted sheet-metal and weld in the panels, re-prime of course...
Body work and paint
Perhaps in parallel (depending on season, winter in Minnesota is not a good time to do body work) do the chassis disassembly, clean-up & painting, rebuild the brakes, and maybe the engine (how does it work to have the engine all assembled BEFORE putting the body back together? That was how the factory did it, so must work OK, right?).
Reassemble the now-painted the body, fenders, doors.... with fresh rubber and seals...
Finally, put the trim and glass back on, and lastly the interior.
Question, how about the wiring? Get it all done BEFORE putting the body back on, and then connect to dashboard as final terminations only?
Sorry for the long rambling post, interested in suggestions on what has worked well for you in similar situations. Thanks!

[StudeRich]

If you have anything on your sheet metal Fins other than Paint, it does not belong there! The Packard Hawks had Gold foil quilted in tiny squares on the fins, if it is that, it's on the wrong car unless it's a '58 Packard Hawk with a Golden Hawk front clip!

[bsrosell]

I guess what I'm looking at is the sheet-metal screws that actually hold the fin to the body then. (under the lower stainless trim strip, which was off when I got it). I wasn't sure if those screws were holding the "fin" or if Studebaker saved assembly time by popping in a white metal piece of trim in there, instead of masking and painting. But must just be the complete tail fin itself then... Thanks!

[sweetolbob]

Just me, but the best way I've found from doing several vehicles is to build a rolling chassis first.

Attack the frame and bring it to the level you want. Then install the running gear, axles and suspension.

Install the engine, tranny and driveshaft. Start the engine and make sure all is well.

Repair the body shell and set it on the frame and square up the assembly. Install radiator, front end, fenders and doors. Adjust, align and repair as necessary. Fill and sand until you're crazy and prime the whole thing. Be sure all alignment and gaps are perfect.

Tear it apart and paint all hidden surfaces and reassemble. You do not want to try to install Stude fenders and doors when they have been painted.

Put it together, do final adjust, fill and sand. Paint it and do final assembly.

The beauty of this approach is that you can have several jobs going at once, filling in while other jobs are out for fab.

Bob

[Milaca]

Interesting questions, I am now curious how the order of assembly was accomplished at the factory. Studebaker factory assembly line photos may answer some of your questions but others may require the knowledge of former Studebaker assembly line employees. But of course, the Studebaker employees didnt have to deal with rust.
Shown here is the body drop display at the Studebaker museum.

[ralt12]

Take a LOT of pictures, because you won't believe how many time you'll ask yourself how that particular part appeared, and use baggies for everything, and label the baggies. It helps to keep things together as well, like all the door hardware, all the interior hardware, etc...

[ralt12]

Just me, but the best way I've found from doing several vehicles is to build a rolling chassis first.

Attack the frame and bring it to the level you want. Then install the running gear, axles and suspension.

Install the engine, tranny and driveshaft. Start the engine and make sure all is well.

Repair the body shell and set it on the frame and square up the assembly. Install radiator, front end, fenders and doors. Adjust, align and repair as necessary. Fill and sand until you're crazy and prime the whole thing. Be sure all alignment and gaps are perfect.

Tear it apart and paint all hidden surfaces and reassemble. You do not want to try to install Stude fenders and doors when they have been painted.

Put it together, do final adjust, fill and sand. Paint it and do final assembly.

The beauty of this approach is that you can have several jobs going at once, filling in while other jobs are out for fab.

Bob

Seems like Bob has done this before; it takes a lot of thought about the reassembly process. Here is mine with the engine compartment and all the jambs done, but being reassembled for the final coats on the outer surfaces of the main body, fenders, etc.

[valleyguy]

I second the recommendation to take lots of pictures and carefully tag all parts, shims, bolts, etc. so they can be reinstalled in the right
locations. Also recommend removing the doors with the hinges attached, if possible. i.e. remove the hinges from the cowl section rather than from
the door itself; otherwise, you're in for a lot of fun adjusting door gaps when reinstalling the doors. Best of luck with your project.


Joe D.

[PackardV8]

What is the preferred (most efficient?) sequence of restoration?

Give it to an experienced and recommended shop and just keep writing big checks each month. Never, ever add up what it is costing.

I'd be interested in hearing from others on their estimates on the following. Over the fifty years I've been in the Studebaker realm, I'd estimate a significant number, some who buy parts cars say close to half, of the Studebakers disassembled for restoration never made it back on the road. Most would-be restorers discover more rust than they are prepared to deal with. Most discover their bodywork skills are not sufficient to give the results they want. The sheer complexity of a frame-up restoration is beyond most enthusiasts ability to project manage. The total cost of a restoration usually far exceeds the market value of the car. That any Studebakers are ever restored is a triumph of affection overcoming logic.

How do I know this? Two more project Studes trudging toward completion; the days and dollars invested ever mounting.

jack vines

[Pat Dilling]

I will subscribe to this thread as I look forward to the build project on my '54 Conestoga, still over a year away to start. I'm not calling it a restore, it will be more of a resto-mod. What I have envisioned in my mind is similar to what Bob laid out. The thing lacking from his description is the interior, which in my sense of logic will come last, though you can certainly have the seats and interior panels out for upholstery while other things are going on.

Please keep the suggestions coming.

Pat

[1954khardtop]

All the suggestions above sound good. I'll add one more. Try to accomplish something everyday, even if it's a little thing like cleaning a part or some other small detail. This will help you stay motivated. I find myself gung-ho at the start, then start to feel overwhelmed in the middle. I get enthused again when I can see the light at the end of the tunnel . Making myself do something each day helps keep me on track.

[52 Ragtop]

I agree, frame and suspension first, then on to the body, Before "re-mating" the body with the frame, drop plastic over the frame and bolt the body down. This will save a lot of time cleaning the dust and over spray off when you're done! But, I disagree with the put it together, then paint it. i have always painted everything apart, and re assembled it after that! yes, you MUST take your time and get a lot of help when hanging the doors and fenders!
But, everybody does it different.
I also agree with LOTS of pictures! and zip lock bags with labels! Seperate each area, left fender, left door, etc. digital photos are cheap and easy to keep organized!

Jim

[bsrosell]

Jim, that is what I did with my Model-A, draped plastic over the completed chassis/engine while I took the body on and off and did the body-work prior to painting. In your description, I'm not sure if you are putting the plastic on BEFORE the body work (you said you painted the components off the car?) or just before final-assembling the PAINTED components? Or maybe the body stays on your chassis (over plastic....) san fenders and other removables that can easily be removed?
With my Model-A, I was able to take the body in to the paint shop on a neighbor's utility trailer, but maybe the 'core' of a Golden Hawk body is going to have to be painted on the chassis....
Lots of good suggestions above guys! Thanks!
PS: Packard V8, I already made that mistake with my 'A coupe; kept track of every dollar and after seven years added it up. I won't do that again!

I agree, frame and suspension first, then on to the body, Before "re-mating" the body with the frame, drop plastic over the frame and bolt the body down. This will save a lot of time cleaning the dust and over spray off when you're done! But, I disagree with the put it together, then paint it. i have always painted everything apart, and re assembled it after that! yes, you MUST take your time and get a lot of help when hanging the doors and fenders!
But, everybody does it different.
I also agree with LOTS of pictures! and zip lock bags with labels! Seperate each area, left fender, left door, etc. digital photos are cheap and easy to keep organized!

Jim

[52 Ragtop]

Yep, drop the plastic over the frame before you paint. The best way is to get the body work done, prime it, then pull the body and finish up the frame and suspension. Once that is done, drape the plastic over the frame, block, sand and prep as needed for the body, paint it, color sand and buff, then pull the plastic off, helps keep the detailed frame and suspension nice and clean.
When I painted my 63 Avanti in February, I id it with the doors, hood and deck lid off. I did not pull the body off the frame on that one. IF all goes well this week, i am hoping to get the upholstury around the windsheild done, windsheild back in, and dash back in. I will also be ordering some new 5 spoke Halibrands for it!

Jim

[ralt12]

Another thing to do before you take it apart is if you are satisfied with the gaps (doors, hood, etc) drill a couple of small holes (like 1/8" ) through spots where sheet metal meets. So drill through the hinges to the metal in the door, and drill through the fender where it meets the cowl. Alignment after paint will be a million times easier.