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RitchQ
04-20-2007, 03:55 PM
Ok, unload at will -- I'm ready for the barrage of retorts.....
I am putting a truck transmission with the overdrive on it, and a Jeep top shifter, into my 53 R5. I pulled the old tranny, got the spring holding the throw-out bearing back on, and put my tranny on a tranny lift... I have worked myself into a tizzy trying to get the darn thing to go back on. I didn't want to pull the bellhouseing 'cause that's just one more thing to have to do. My transmission goes up to about 2 inches from the bellhousing plate and stops. I have tried to adjust my lift up, down, sideways, pushed, pulled, cussed and prayed...
Any ideas? the spline shaft is the same size on both so that should not be the problem.
Is there some trick that I have not seen / heard that allows this to go together? I found an old Studebaker Mechanic here locally and work with him on things like this but he is not available right now so I turn to you - my Stude Friends for help.

Ritch

N8N
04-20-2007, 04:14 PM
sounds like your clutch plate has somehow become misaligned with the crankshaft - you didn't by chance release the clutch with the transmission out did you? I'd try having a helper step on the clutch after you have insterted the trans as far as you can get it into the bellhousing and then just muscle it in from there. (note: this is Not Fun)

Before you try that, though, make sure the trans is in gear and wire the OD disengaged and try rotating it a little while inserting it (if it's still sitting on the tranny jack, rotate the tailshaft by hand instead of rotating the whole trans case;) you might be just hitting the splines of the input shaft on the splines of the clutch disc.

Also take a flashlight and take a good look inside the bellhousing. Is the bushing in the crank perhaps disintegrated and there's debris in there keeping the nose of the input shaft from entering the crank?

just some thoughts...

nate

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55 Commander Starlight
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StudeRich
04-20-2007, 06:18 PM
Could your input shaft be too long and bottoming out on the flywheel? Also I see in the Truck parts catalog, that the pilot bushing is in the flywheel on small 6's.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

whacker
04-20-2007, 10:00 PM
Get 4 bolts, two about 6" long and two 4" long. I seem to remember 9/16 - 18, but I could be wrong, this is from memory. Line the tranny up with the bellhousing and start them together. Insert the two longer bolts in the upper left and lower right corners of the tranny and start them in the bellhousing. Alternate tightening the two bolts a few turns each until the threads on the bolts are used up. Unscrew the two 6" bolts and replace them with the 4" bolts and repeat the operation. If the tranny starts to bind, put it in gear and rotate the yoke on the tail to be sure the splines are engaged properly. You can push the tranny by hand the last couple of inches. Insert the tranny bolts in the two exposed holes finger tight, remove the two 4" bolts and replace them with the two tranny bolts. Torque to spec.

RitchQ
04-22-2007, 01:58 PM
StudeRich - it all measures the same. That was one of my first thoughts when it didn't go in first time. So I "miched" (SP) it and it is exactly the same length and diameter. But thanks for thinking of that also.

whacker - I am trying that suggestion next. I wondered if that might be just what it needed -- a little friendly persuasion!! I do realize that the alignment has to be right for the bolts to draw it up tight, but that might be just the ticket.

N8N -- my friend mentioned that and of course YES I pulled the old tranny out without pushing the clutch in. He told me to put a rag or something large enough to hold the clutch ears out / open against the clutch pedal rod and the firewall. I did and looked inside the bellhousing to see if anything has slipped. It seems to be okay -- I have put dowl rod in to make sure the clutch and the flywheel are lined up. -- and yes I did remember to take the dowl rod out ---:D I have made that mistake before.....

Thanks to all for the suggestions. One of 2 things will happen now - 1) I will get this in and start driving... 2) There will be a 53 R5 on EBAY for sale....:)

Ritch

rusty nut garage
04-24-2007, 10:09 AM
Use great caution when using this method. Measure the distance between the bellhousing and tranny while your doing it and go real slow and easy, if the bolts get tight STOP. Cast iron breaks and breaks easy. I've seen ear broken off of trannys and broken blocks an bellhousing using this method.
Russ

quote:Originally posted by whacker

Get 4 bolts, two about 6" long and two 4" long. I seem to remember 9/16 - 18, but I could be wrong, this is from memory. Line the tranny up with the bellhousing and start them together. Insert the two longer bolts in the upper left and lower right corners of the tranny and start them in the bellhousing. Alternate tightening the two bolts a few turns each until the threads on the bolts are used up. Unscrew the two 6" bolts and replace them with the 4" bolts and repeat the operation. If the tranny starts to bind, put it in gear and rotate the yoke on the tail to be sure the splines are engaged properly. You can push the tranny by hand the last couple of inches. Insert the tranny bolts in the two exposed holes finger tight, remove the two 4" bolts and replace them with the two tranny bolts. Torque to spec.


Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
57 SH (project)
60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

N8N
04-24-2007, 01:39 PM
Rich,

I could use a pickup truck :)

nate

(but I'm sure your next post will report success)

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RitchQ
04-24-2007, 08:31 PM
Rusty Nut -- understand your council completely. I found out long ago that a "bigger hammer and a harder blow" does not make it go faster or better!!! -- it just makes it go POP!!!!

Nate -- thanks for the confidence. I will try to make you proud!:D
Ritch

John Kirchhoff
04-25-2007, 09:22 AM
Whacker and his long bolts is a great idea, but cutting the heads off of them and using them as temporary dowels makes it much easier to get the tranny up there. I seldom have any help and trying to hold the tranny and stick/thread bolts into dark holes takes more hands than I have at present. With studs you can lift it up there, slip it over them and then insert bolts at your leisure. If a person has a wood lath, you can turn down a dowel to pretty much the same dimensions as the input shaft and use these to align the clutch plate.

RitchQ
04-25-2007, 10:13 AM
John, excellent suggestion.. that way I'm not forcing anything just putting a guide up for the tranny to follow.

Thanks,
Ritch

N8N
04-25-2007, 06:40 PM
if you use the cut off bolts, grind a slot in them with your cutoff wheel, that way if one is "sticky" or you end up with gear oil on your hands (now how would that happen?) you can still use a screwdriver to back them out.

nate

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55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

mapman
04-25-2007, 11:05 PM
If you use a piece of all-thread you can add a nut to hold it in as you work it in. Tighten it finger tight then rock the trans as you go. It kind of pries it in if you have galled splines etc. Follow the above suggestions too and hopefully we won't see it on ebay soon.
Rob

RitchQ
04-26-2007, 12:11 PM
Nate -- sounds like you have wished you had cut slots in a bolt before -- is there a story behind that?

Rob, thanks for the suggestion.

Anyone want to come to Double Oak and watch me (do it) and get a good laugh??

Ritch