My Champion 6 with a stock mechanical fuel pump has decided it won't start a hot engine that has been shut off for 10 or more minutes. The only way to get it started is to let it sit for an hour or two OR pour ice water on the fuel pump and then it starts right away. Cold starts are no problem. The pump is a Carter I purchased new almost three years ago. Is it gone already? Can I leave it on the engine and install an electric pump near the gas tank?
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Yes an electric pump back by the tank hooked up with momentary-on switch will most likely solve your apparent vapor lock problem. Is there still a heat shield above the mechanical pump? If it is missing it will worsen the problem.Frank van Doorn
Omaha, Ne.
1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD
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The original fuel pump would have had 3 long studs in place of 3 of the normal screws that hold the pump together (around the diaphram perimeter). On top of these studs a metal stamping was mounted to shield the pump from the manifold heat. Over the years most of these shields dissapeared. I made a drawing of one & submitted it to Earl Haley & Turning Wheels & they printed a copy of it in the magazine in full scale (although I can't remember which issue....it was probably somewhere between 1988 to '90). Maybe someone here knows how to access it.
Finding the studs is harder than making the shield. Look the part number up in the parts book & check with the major vendors would be my guess (or make some yourself).
Yes, adding an electric fuel pump at the tank in addition to your mechanical pump will save you a lot of headaches. I have one on my '50 champ (and it has the shield) with a hidden toggle switch under the left side of dash. When the engine is warm, like when you stop at the gas station, I just flip the switch for 30 seconds or so & she starts up & stays running every time (it's so embarrasing to have the car die just as your leaving the gas station parking lot.
When we first bought the car, we were in down town Indianapolis & stopped at some famous candy store on the circle drive (back when the girls were young). Sure as the world the car vapor locked when we tried to leave (it did not have the shield at that time). While I had the hood up & Sonya & the girls went to find a cup of ice water (to pour on the pump), this small older lady walked up with a big smile & told me all about her big adventure in a '50 Studebaker. A girlfriend had received a new champ for a highschool graduation present & invited 3 friends to go with her on a trip to California. I loved watching the smile on her face as she recalled that road trip of a lifetime. Can you imagine 4 highschool girls traveling across the country in 1950?
The moral of the story is that once in a while a case of vapor lock isn't all that bad. We would have never met that gal if we hadn't had trouble.
Mike Sal
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One pump that will work is Airtex Electric Fuel Pump E8011. I just ordered one for my '53 coupe. It is a 6 volt "flowthrough" type. So you can use it to prime your system and then shut it off. OR leave it on to help your failing mechanical pump. It is "isolated" so you can hook up the + & - leads as needed without the fear on negitive ground versus positive ground.
Good Luck.
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The (original?) pump that was on the truck when I got it didn't have the long studs or the heat shield and the only shield in the 2R parts book is for a Commander. Very different from the Champion shield. But, a couple of the vendors have the Champ shield and long studs, part number 527874.
From what I've heard that Airtex E8011 is a good pump. Has anybody used the one fifth avenue internet garage sells?Rick
Kingman, AZ
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S.I. sells both Commander and Champion heat shields.
Mike,
Always appreciated that drawing you sent in. Very professional. Kinda figured SI used it to have theirs made. Or not.KURTRUK
(read it backwards)
Nothing is politically right which is morally wrong. -A. Lincoln
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I was just thrilled to see a contribution to the magazine. I was pretty new to SDC back then. I was a draftsman / designer for 10 years before stepping up to engineer, so I can find my way around a drafting table (I know, it's an obsolete idea today....).
Those E8011 pumps are a pretty good option, I'm putting one on ole yeller now. We have the same pump in 12 volts under p/n E8012.
Mike Sal
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