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51 windows and brakes! (and locks?)

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  • #1

    51 windows and brakes! (and locks?)

    brought home my 51 champion 2 dr sedan today!

    anyway, drivers door window was gone, but seller had a replacement. i didn't bother to check until i got home, but the replacement doesn't fit ANY window in the car! i got the glass frame out from the regulator, but now i need to find glass. any idea on what i can expect to pay from a shop, or is it better to find a used one? oh, and does someone (by chance) have the measurement for the glass, or do i have to work the b*tch out of the passenger door to get it?

    brakes...
    well, the problem(s) is... brakes work from the pedal, but when parked, the car rolls while it's in gear. put the parking brake on, and it still rolls. i have the wheels turned toward the curb now to keep it where i put it. any ideas? i did get my shop manual today, but haven't browsed it yet.

    finally got the key to work in the passenger door lock; with a lot of silicone spray and elbow grease. inserts and turns well now. drivers side is a different story. the keyhole cover was stuck, but i eventually broke that loose. key fits in the lock, but will not turn. i figure it's rusted because even if the lock happened to be keyed differently, it would turn slightly. since that door is also missing the window, i put plastic over it and locked the door from the inside... as a deterrent, if nothing else. will try wd40 on the lock mechanism from inside the door tomorrow. any other ideas?

    and simply because the honda forum sucks, the ignition in my honda civic is hard to unlock. it will eventually turn with enough effort and the right position, but it takes awhile and is contributing to carpal tunnel in my right hand. tried every method found on google, but nothing works. i have to remove the ignition and take it to a locksmith, don't i?
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  • #2
    Sounds like your car is overdrive equipped if it's rolling back while in gear. Put it in reverse and it shouldn't go anywhere.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by mbstude View Post
      Sounds like your car is overdrive equipped if it's rolling back while in gear. Put it in reverse and it shouldn't go anywhere.
      done that. tried it in first and reverse. what concerns me, too, is that the parking brake isn't even working (and once it's pulled out, it's a pain in the ass to get back in). i saw how to adjust it in the shop manual, but won't be able to do that for awhile.

      and i dont think it really matters, but it's rolling forward.

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      • #4
        Regarding the door locks, I did that on my Lark, the 2r5, and the locks on my doors back at NIU. Basically it consisted of spraying down the inside of the lock, and sticking the key in and working the lock back and forth until I could lock and unlock the door with little or no effort. In the case of the pickup though, the key would not open the passenger door, so it required pulling the lock, dissassembling it, and doing a little "resetting the combination" until the lock worked with the key.
        1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
        1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
        1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
        1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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        • #5
          The car rolling while in reverse makes me wonder if the driveshaft is installed. If the parking brake handle pulls out very far and has no effect it is probably not connected under the car. Hard to diagnose either of these things without being able to get under the car and look.
          Many older glass shops have patterns for a wide variety of older cars. If you can't locate a shop with patterns, you will have to pull your other glass or order a glass from a vendor.
          "In the heart of Arkansas."
          Searcy, Arkansas
          1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
          1952 2R pickup

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          • #6
            the car did drive forward before i towed it. i assume it reversed, too, because of the way it was in the driveway when i arrived to pick it up. i may be too scrubbed up to the curb now, but it's not rolling anymore; even in neutral. i curbed the wheels again anyway as a safeguard.

            a friend said he couldnt hear anything whether i engaged or disengaged the parking brake. will have to check on that later.

            used wd40 all over the lock parts on the inside of the door. still too rusted. can't pull off the horseshoe clip to remove the cylinder.

            tried to remove the sediment bowl from the fuel pump today. the thumb nut wasn't moving, so i sprayed wd40 all over it and let it soak for awhile. eventually got it to turn, but when i pulled the parts from my hand, i had an extra one. i broke off the weld on the thumb screw post. mixed up some jb weld, and now i'm waiting for it to dry. should be fine when i get home from work tomorrow. also need a new sediment bowl gasket. on ebay $3 is fine, but $5 shipping is ludicris. is there a commonly available part that does the trick for cheaper than $8?

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            • #7
              Order a new fuel pump and it will come with the gasket, bowl, and the bail (part with the thumbscrew). Or at least mine did! The gasket is probably at your FLAPS. If not take the bowl to your local tractor places. Many of the bowls are similar in size so you should be able to find something!
              _______________
              http://stude.vonadatech.com
              https://jeepster.vonadatech.com

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              • #8
                The locks in my Avanti were very stiff also, I disassembled the locks, cleaned them and re greased them with silicone grease, they work very easy now.

                Jim
                "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!

                Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see                 their Memorials!

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                • #9
                  tried to reassemble the fuel pump with the repaired "bail", but it was a no-go. i couldn't get it screwed open enough and broke the new bond while trying to force it. i DID find a gasket at auto zone, though, for about $1.60. too bad i can't even run the car until i get enough money to replace the pump... or at least find someone who has that bail piece. i'll take the thing to a shop tomorrow and see if they can tap it out and tack weld it for me. autozone had the fuel pump for $30. might have to go with that, but it'll be 2 weeks before i can afford that.

                  though a lot of the wiring was replaced, there's still a lot to do. i think that's why i can't get any of the interior lights to work (and front turn signals).

                  as far as the lock, that clip is not moving at all. i got it to budge with a screwdriver, but i'm afraid to force it off... as if i can't get it back on again. i can't get the clip to move either direction by hand. i took the door latch off and thoroughly doused the lock with wd40. maybe tomorrow... but for now, it's working by locking it from the inside (even if i don't have window glass).

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                  • #10
                    Welding would probably work. It does not have to be all that strong. Turn signals and door locks are over-rated but if the wiring is suspect it is probably worth going over just so it does not burst into flames on you.
                    _______________
                    http://stude.vonadatech.com
                    https://jeepster.vonadatech.com

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by nvonada View Post
                      Welding would probably work. It does not have to be all that strong. Turn signals and door locks are over-rated but if the wiring is suspect it is probably worth going over just so it does not burst into flames on you.
                      most of the engine wiring has been replaced. can't say so much for the horn/lighting/wipers (yes, i know they're vacuum, but they still don't work)/heat. hopefully i'll make enough money at my rockabilly show tonight to buy that fuel pump.

                      and regarding the "bail" part that broke, i think the problem was that i couldnt get the thumb nut to go down far enough. i took it to a shop today to have them check it out. they said $5 for the weld, and they wouldn't tap it. seems a little pricey for a one-second weld. besides, i don't have an extra $5 right now... and i want it tapped.

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                      • #12
                        Ditch the WD-40 and try some sewing machine oil, Teflon fishing reel lube, or good gun oil like CLP or KROIL.

                        WD-40 does little for real lubrication.
                        It is however, great for displacing water.

                        I have a link on my other computer to a place that sells auto glass for our cars.

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