6V Alternator

[sasquatch]

Has anybody installed a 6V alternator on their car/truck? One of the claims for using it is it will give you brighter headlights. The only problem I have with my 6V system is dim lighting. (All the wiring and bulbs are new.) I'll pay $200 to get brighter lights if it really works.

[irish]

In a car the only real advantage of an alternator over a generator is a much better charge when the engine is idling. If your headlights seem dim above idle (espcially over 1500 RPM) and the generator is working properly switching to an alternator isn't going to help you. Bad wiring and connections (especially a bad ground) are usually the culprit. You mentioned it has new wiring but are you sure all the connections are good and the generator is working properly?

Joe

[sasquatch]

The headlights seem dim compared to my 12V cars but maybe they are as bright as can be expected with 6V. I was careful about cleaning the connections when I rewired and all wiring is the same gauge as original. I have not had the generator output checked but it looks OK on the ammeter and the battery always cranks it fast enough to start right away.

[skyway]

Aftermarket Hella's with H4 6 volt bulbs made quite an improvement on my otherwise stock '41 Commander.

I believe there are relays available to make them even brighter.

[irish]

Use some jumper wires and connect one of your headlights directly to a fully charged battery. That will tell you if have some problems that are causing your lights to be dim. 'Skyway' has some good suggestions too.

Joe

[JDP]

A 8 volt battery and a regulator adjustment will do wonders.

[N8N]

I believe that 6V H4 halogen bulbs are available; if paired with some round reflector assemblies they will provide lighting comparable-ish to modern 12V sealed beams. The bulbs are generally available from vintage German car centric web sites (start with Porsche or VW suppliers, as those are the German cars from the 6V era most popular in the US) and I like the E-code Cibie reflectors available from any number of suppliers, try Daniel Stern Lighting for more advice etc. Also make sure all connections are sparking clean and protected with dielectric grease as voltage drop will affect a 6V system far more dramatically than a 12V system. Deoxit is your friend! (also clean the headlight switch and high beam switch as dirty contacts there cause even more voltage drop.) If you're not married to complete originality - and by your question it sounds like you're not - a relay harness can help, although I can't recommend a source for 6V relays (maybe ask Dan Stern?)

nate

[sasquatch]

I'm trying to keep it as original as possible but I see nothing wrong with safety improvements. Sounds like good advice. Thanks everybody.

[52 Ragtop]

Also, run some extra grounds! I did on my 52 and the lights are not too bad, not as good as a new xieon but much better. I ran grounds (Dave Lester you paying attention) <G> from the engine to the firewall, all the gauges have a separate ground, and anyplace you think might help.

Jim

[2moredoors]

I have a '37 Olds with a 6 volt alternator and I installed Halogen Bulbs from "Jeff Zorn Motors" web page www.classicbulbs.com email bulbs@classicbulbs.com.
He offered two types of bulbs one to be used with an alternator and the other with a generator, he also offers sealed halogen beams. I chose the ones for the alternator. They made a difference for my Olds but I still need to have my reflectors resilvered. My 1955 Studebaker President is 6 volt with a generator and has ordinary sealed beams and works quite well. I would not bother going to Halogen for that car they don't seem much different than my 1966 Cruiser with its 12 volt system.
Hope this helps.

[Chris Pile]

I put a 6V 1 wire GM-style alternator on my '49 Champion and never regretted it. My headlights were brighter at idle, and the system seemed less cantankerous at night. Other chapter members have done it, and none are displeased.

[48M5]

6 and 12 volt relays

Nate mentioned relays above. I believe they are the elegant solution particularly for 6 volt vehicles where wire gauge, age and the age of the dashboard switches each play a big role in the overall reliability of the harness. Using relays allows the heavy load current to be pulled off the dashboard switches and run directly from the battery to the load. Headlights, fog lights, electric fuel pump etc. are all good candidates for an interposing relay. Adding them requires good knowledge of your car's wiring harness and a basic understanding of relay logic. That's particluarly true for the fuel pump because of the safety issues related to how and when you want the pump to not run. The good news is that good quality automotive grade sealed relays are dirt cheap and readily available. You can get 12Volt relays from lots of sources including NAPA. For my M5 headlights, foglights and fuel pump, I bought SPDT relays with 6 volt coil and mounting bracket from Newark Electronics. The relays are TYCO brand automotive grade. Here's the part numbers: 6Volt, Newark number 21M4888. 12Volt, 21M4719. Put Newark Electronics and one of those part numbers in a Google search for more information and a price under $3.00 each.