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Eman
09-19-2005, 07:33 AM
Okay, we got the rears off of my '51 Commander (can I just call her "Stella" from now on?:)). However, what I'm looking at sure doesn't look like what's in my shop manual. Some things appear to be missing, but never having done brakes before, I'm not 100% sure what (shoe operating link, springs, etc.). Looks like the emergency brake isn't really connected to anything either. See pics here:
http://www.bulletshots.net/myStude/set3/

The shots that have the tape measure in them is my other question... Those are my front brakes. Do they look like someone has come in and already attempted to put the larger brakes on there?

I would appreciate any help with this.

By the way, there are more sets of pictures here:
http://www.bulletshots.net/myStude/

Thanks,
Eric


www.bulletshots.net

Roscomacaw
09-19-2005, 09:20 AM
Those are the original brakes alright. And your guess is correct in that you're missing parts of them. Especially the parking brake levers and actuator bar that goes between the shoes.

These brakes and the way they work is the reason we've been advising you to go to later brakes for the car.

That anchor that the bottom ends of the shoes rest against is the lever point for each shoe. So each shoe works independently as it's personal cylinder piston works it from the top. It's works like this, of course, but the '54 and later brakes were what they termed, "Self-Energizing". This means that there's no fixed anchor point for the lower end of the shoes. The shoe are linked together (in essence) by the adjuster and spring at the bottom - neither of which is affixed to the backing plate as with your cars lower wnchor point.[:I]
When you operate the self-energizing style brakes, the friction of the turning drum works to magnify the pressure of the shoes. I don't think I'd be stretching it too much to say that they're, in essence. mechanically power assisted by virtue of how they work. Not to mention that they have considerably more square inches of friction surface to haul that storming V8 to a stop![:0];)

Also missing from your brakes are the self-adjuster slugs and springs. (I eally don't like those things anyawy[xx(]) But the aren't critical to the brake's function so long sa you keep them adjusted.:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Eman
09-19-2005, 02:28 PM
I guess the folks that had her before me never parked on a hill!:D

At least I think I've found someone who will help me out with a set of new, bigger fronts. I'll just need to find some new rear brakes, etc. to clean up/finish up this little bump in the road.

Thanks Mr. Biggs.



www.bulletshots.net

dpson
09-19-2005, 05:00 PM
I had previously advised keeping the original brakes on your 1951, however with the parts that are missing switching out to a more modern set up isn't a bad idea. I think I've got a finned drum rear brake set up from a 1962 or 63 GT Hawk. Backing plates, internals, drums, etc. Not sure if the cylinders are any good, but they probably would need to be redone/replaced anyway. I'll have to dig them out to see what is there. Keep in mind shipping will be pricy due to weight, but I could bring to Readsville in Nov. or York in the spring if you, or someone you know, is heading that way. If interested email me: dpson1954@adelphia.net.

1960 Lark Convertible
1962 GT Hawk

studeclunker
09-19-2005, 07:14 PM
Check out the dog on that shipping. Just be a little patient. It might take another day if you're over 500 miles apart. Sometimes it's better to go Greyhound!

I know, I know... Shameless employee plug, I know...[:I]

Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith

Eman
09-20-2005, 10:30 AM
Email sent, Dan. Thanks.


www.bulletshots.net

Eman
09-20-2005, 04:11 PM
Will the backing plates, emergency brake levers, etc. from the rear brakes of a '62 GT Hawk bolt on to my '51 Commander's rear? Or is there any sort of adapting necessary?


www.bulletshots.net

Roscomacaw
09-22-2005, 01:56 PM
62GT brakes will bolt right on alright, but you'll have to have EVERYTHING from the GT. Everything from the backing plates - out. You can't intermix just parts with the earlier brakes. :D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

52-fan
05-21-2007, 06:39 PM
Mr.Biggs, I'm sure you are a fine fellow considering all the help you give to people who post on this site, but your reply that the 51 brakes work fine without the self-adjusters if they are kept adjusted puzzles me.
Back in 71, when I bought my 52 it had problems with brake pull and generally not stopping well. When I pulled the front drums the self-adjusters were missing from one side. The previous owner's son had replaced the brake shoes and not knowing how to set them, he did not file down the plugs as per the shop manual. When the shoes wore down a little, the adjusters could not move and caused one brake to squeal. His solution was to remove the self-adjuster plug on that side.
When I tried to adjust the brakes the side without the adjuster parts had no place for the adjustment cam to contact the shoe. How did you accomplish this?
I have used the stock self-adjust brakes for a long time and found them to be trouble free when installed correctly. I do however, agree that the self-energizing brakes give better braking and when I redo my Champion brakes I am going to change over to later type V-8 brakes.
The main problem from the Studebaker self-adjusters come from brand-x mechanics who are not familiar with how it works. It was a good system in its day.

!952 Champion Starlight since October,1971. !962 Daytona
since May, 2007.