I'm on the Road In Harrisburg PA with a problem

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

I'm in Ithica NY without my shop manual and forget which timing mark I should be at. Looking at a stock vibration dampner in a 63 Lark there are 3 lines from left to right. Two of which are about 1/4 " apart the third about 3/4" away from the other two.

With the vacuum off the distributor which line should I be on? Engine idle at 600 RPM?

Allen

[jclary]

It should be the line "nearest" to the "IGN" mark stamped on the damper.

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Is that right or left of the IGN. What RPM should I be at? I better go have another look at the dampner.

[jclary]

Allen, I just read your other thread where you commented about repairing a fuel leak. Before you spend a lot of time and energy in tweaking your timing...be sure you have that leak properly diagnosed and properly buttoned up. If fuel is leaking, "air" can also invade the fuel system. You know that it a lot easier to suck air than liquid fuel, so if air bubbles are mixing with the fuel, it can cause the rough running. I am sorry you are experiencing this so early in your adventure and hope you solve it soon.

[jclary]

Is that right or left of the IGN. What RPM should I be at? I better go have another look at the dampner.

It will be to the left...it is the mark next to the "I" in IGN.

600 RPM

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Allen, I just read your other thread where you commented about repairing a fuel leak. Before you spend a lot of time and energy in tweaking your timing...be sure you have that leak properly diagnosed and properly buttoned up. If fuel is leaking, "air" can also invade the fuel system. You know that it a lot easier to suck air than liquid fuel, so if air bubbles are mixing with the fuel, it can cause the rough running. I am sorry you are experiencing this so early in your adventure and hope you solve it soon.

Thanks John,

The fuel leak at the output of the fuel pump is repaired, I was out there this morning a 7:30 with wrenches in hand. I took it all apart, clean up the seats of the fittings and put it back together again. I also felt that the sucking of air might be my problem. I cleaned out the fuel filter bowl and was suprised how much crap was in it. As for the timing I will go back down and check it once again.

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Well it's been an adventure so far. The Lark is acting up to say the least. We are in Scranton Pa. When in drive she is running rough. I've checked the timing, seems good. dwell angle is 24 -25. Not exactly sure what the point gap should be. I've looked at the possibility of a fuel delivery problem. I've installed a glass bowl fuel filter a few years ago and I've noticed on this trip it is not always full sometimes even a 1/4 inch of gas in the bowl. I've brought a extra fuel pump and tried to change it but wouldn't you know it someone drilled and re-tapped the right side bolt hole to the next size up. I did not bring a drill and bit on our adventure so swapping the fuel pump is not an option until I get the spare fuel pump right hand side drilled out to accommodate the bigger bolt. The fuel bowl does fill when I increase the RPM but seem to trickle in at idle.

I'm not sure what my next step should be. Any ideas?

The plan was to get to Baltimore tonight but not sure whether to continue tonight The car seems to do well at Highway speeds but lack power at lower speeds.

[curt]

How is the uptake tube ? Does it pull free? I would suggest a simple test. I did this once, little / no fuel came out. Car was pointed slightly down hill. I disconnected the fuel line at the the pump. Gas should flow if the tank has adequate fuel. This is my opinion.
I had no fuel past a fast drip. I towed the car home, upake in the tank was silted up. Had tank cleaned at a radiator shop, problem cured.
I assume it's not vapor lock.

[jclary]

The car seems to do well at Highway speeds but lack power at lower speeds.

Well...here I am feeling like the least qualified in the room to comment on this but here goes. Running better at high speeds seems to go "counter" to what you'd think would be a fuel delivery problem. How old are your plugs, plug wires, and distributor cap. I have had electrical problems caused by these components arching off at low speeds and running better at higher demands. The thing about the high output wires is that they can do this at high or low demands depending on where the weak points are and extent of deterioration. Where ever you land tonight...wait until it is real dark and fire her up and look for the tell-tale signs of arching. On plug wires, look at any metal "wire clips" that keep the wires organized for signs of arching there or even sparks jumping across wires. Check closely around the distributor cap. If the cap is good, you could still have almost "imperceptible" carbon tracks on the underside causing a mini lightning storm under the cap. Wouldn't hurt to clean it good with a clean dry cloth.

I hate that you are having this problem. It is much more fun when you can drive with confidence. Dealing with the obvious problems is one thing...the "ghost" problems are an entirely different matter.

[curt]

jclary, you are probably correct, not fuel feed from the tank, thanks for the input.

[Milaca]

Have you inspected your spark plug gaps? I had a cylinder misfiring last year due to an electrode mysteriously closing itself. I regapped it and then it ran great. As for the fuel line possibly being constricted, it may not hurt to remove the fuel line at the pump inlet and blowing compressed air into the fuel line towards the gas tank (with the gas cap off).

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Have you inspected your spark plug gaps? I had a cylinder misfiring last year due to an electrode mysteriously closing itself. I regapped it and then it ran great. As for the fuel line possibly being constricted, it may not hurt to remove the fuel line at the pump inlet and blowing compressed air into the fuel line towards the gas tank (with the gas cap off).

We decided to continue down to Harrisburg Pa. I have not inspected the spark plugs yet. The car runs very acceptable at highway speeds 55-70 mph. It does not at 10-30 mph. I am just wondering if I have lost the vacuum advance? The mechanical advance would be full in at highway speeds wouldn't it? When I was testing the timing this afternoon, I noticed no increase in RPM when I re attached the vacuum to the distributor.

How does one test the distributor's vacuum advance?

Allen

[Bob Andrews]

The car runs very acceptable at highway speeds 55-70 mph. It does not at 10-30 mph.
Allen

Symptoms make me wonder about a vacuum leak. Things like this can develop on older cars on a long, steady trip.

My 65 Lincoln had similar symptoms. Perfect on the road, but definite skip at idle. Was a real melon-scratcher until we put the smoker on it; turned out to be the slightest of intake gasket leaks. R&Red the intake with new gaskets- rean perfectly thereafter.

You could spray carb cleaner along the intake and carb mating surfaces, and any place there's vacuum on the engine. If there's a leak you should hear the RPMs pick up as you spray the leak.

[studegary]

[QUOTE=studebaker-R2-4-me;483871]We decided to continue down to Harrisburg Pa. I have not inspected the spark plugs yet. The car runs very acceptable at highway speeds 55-70 mph. It does not at 10-30 mph. I am just wondering if I have lost the vacuum advance? The mechanical advance would be full in at highway speeds wouldn't it? When I was testing the timing this afternoon, I noticed no increase in RPM when I re attached the vacuum to the distributor.

How does one test the distributor's vacuum advance? Allen[ /QUOTE]

Observe your timing when you rev it up with the vacuum advance disconnected. Then rev up the engine with the vacuum advance connected and observe the timing. You should be able to observe a noticeable difference.

[showbizkid]

You can also disconnect the vacuum advance hose at the carb nipple and, with engine running, apply vacuum (with your mouth or a vacuum pump) and see if revs increase. If they don't, or if the engine stays the same and then jumps up suddenly, there's a problem with the breaker plate or advance diaphragm.