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vegas paul
04-13-2007, 06:54 PM
I am in the early process of installing Jim Turner disc brakes (front and rear) on my 51 Champion. I've read many old threads about the difficulty in removing rear hubs and my initial reaction was "What a bunch of whiners, just take the dang things off!"

Well, as of this morning I apologize for all my inconsiderate thoughts to those of you that have complained about this. I DID get them off, but boy am I glad this is the only/last time (since I will now have discs).

I heated, pulled, beat, heated some more, and pulled - almost to the point I thought the center rod of my puller was going to damage the axle ( I did have the castle nut on the end - thanks for that tip). All in all it was a 2 hour process.

I'm glad my 6 year-old son was at school, he usually helps me on week ends. He would have learned some new words that he probably shouldn't know.

I'll keep you updated and post pictures when the disc brakes are done.

Las Vegas, NV
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude.jpghttp://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/1462673_2_350.jpg

53k
04-13-2007, 07:12 PM
quote:Originally posted by vegas paul

I am in the early process of installing Jim Turner disc brakes (front and rear) on my 51 Champion. I've read many old threads about the difficulty in removing rear hubs and my initial reaction was "What a bunch of whiners, just take the dang things off!"
Well, as of this morning I apologize for all my inconsiderate thoughts to those of you that have complained about this. I DID get them off, but boy am I glad this is the only/last time (since I will now have discs).
I heated, pulled, beat, heated some more, and pulled - almost to the point I thought the center rod of my puller was going to damage the axle ( I did have the castle nut on the end - thanks for that tip). All in all it was a 2 hour process.
I'm glad my 6 year-old son was at school, he usually helps me on week ends. He would have learned some new words that he probably shouldn't know.
I'll keep you updated and post pictures when the disc brakes are done.

Sounds as if you weren't using the proper hub puller. I have never had to heat or beat hubs to loosen them.


[img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine

JDP
04-13-2007, 07:17 PM
You need a bigger hammer. :) I've pulled them on dozens of Studebakers without a issue. I sometime had to stand up and hit the dog bone with a full two handed swing. A good rap straight on now and then helps, but never missed the satisfying "pop" when it lets go. I've even had them pop when i walked away to take a break.

64 Commander-64 Daytona
64 GT R2 clone-63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert-63
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

bige
04-13-2007, 08:06 PM
Last time I had them off the passenger side launched itself about 2 feet while I was going for the bigger hammer.

ErnieR

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r241/AvantiR2/avnatiglamour007.jpg

Randy_G
04-13-2007, 08:33 PM
I've learned the joys of stuck hubs recently and without the proper puller and big hammer for tapping the hub mind you, getting them to come off is nearly impossiable, those things weren't designed to ever come off. Good times and character building material for sure.

Randy_G
1959 Lark Sedan
www.AutomotiveHistoryOnline.com
http://www.automotivehistoryonline.com/sedan4small.jpg

rockne10
04-13-2007, 09:10 PM
I was just looking at the Snap-On master catalog this morning and they still have the puller available for the same price as SI. So, do you buy from a Stude vendor to help support the hobby or from a supplier of lifetime gauranteed tools?

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/rockne10/51x2.jpg'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

John Kirchhoff
04-13-2007, 09:13 PM
I understand completely, vegas paul. I had one last fall that was just like yours. The first one came off like the other guys described but the other one was like yours, heating, cranking down the puller until I couldn't turn the wrench anymore, whack, more heat, quench and so on. I think I said a few words also.

vegas paul
04-13-2007, 09:58 PM
I was using the right puller... one came off in about 10 minutes (with no heating) the other had an attitude. I borrowed the puller, and I'll never need it again (for this car!). I look forward to posting a few pictures of the disc brake upgrade as I find the time to work on it.

Las Vegas, NV
'51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/graciestude.jpghttp://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s144/vegas_paul/1462673_2_350.jpg

cstude1
04-13-2007, 10:11 PM
Has anyone tried a home made puller like this?

https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/parts/html/images/dualpuller.jpg
It is simple and che--, inexpensive to make.
When you use this puller, remove the axle nut,put all five wheel nuts on the hub leaving about 3/8" between the hub and puller. Next hand tighten the center bolt against the axle. Use a air gun or 1/2" drive ratchet and 3/4" socket and tighten all the wheel nuts a bit in sequence. This gives a five bolt straight out even pulling effect and the hub comes off quite easily. ( notice all the hammer marks on the center bolt)
Chuck

sbca96
04-13-2007, 10:49 PM
Make sure you leave the nut on the axle shaft to keep it from becoming
a missle when it lets go. Its really best NOT to hit the hub, and as
I mentioned in my Mustang rear disc setup thread, the hubs are easy to
bend!! When they are bent, it will cause extra runout on your rotor &
you will feel a pulsation in the brake pedal. One of mine was over
.011, that will roughly double depending on the size of Turners rear
discs. Max runout allowable at the edge of the rotor is preferrably
around .005. Wacking the hub surface with a large hammer can take out
any low numbers, but turning the hub on a lathe will be required for
any high numbers. You should check the hub with a dial indicator. Its
possible to bend the hubs JUST by removing the hub, since the pullers
pull on only 3 of the studs, so the one out by itself will get bent.

I also found that ONE of my axles was bent years ago by someone prying
on the hub with a rather large bar. The bar must have been placed in
between the hub and backing plate with the drum removed. There were a
few marks ON the hub, and the axle was bent opposite those marks.

Good luck!

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

Anne F. Goodman
04-14-2007, 02:13 AM
Hey I took the rear hubs off of a 61 Lark bought the right puller listened to all of the advice. I got lucky had the right size hammer too. I sure impressed the neighbor and my husband.

Mabel 1949 Champion
1957 Silverhawk
1955 Champion 4Dr.Regal
Gus 1958 Transtar
Fresno,Ca
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/nw3anne/Mabel.jpg?t=1165475035http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/nw3anne/xmasannecopy.jpg

bradnree
04-16-2007, 08:45 PM
You can buy a new one in a red plastic case for about $50 on a buy it now. I believe Anne F. Goodman in this post referred me to this company. Just do a search on ebay for wheel pullers..........Brad
quote:Originally posted by rockne10

I was just looking at the Snap-On master catalog this morning and they still have the puller available for the same price as SI. So, do you buy from a Stude vendor to help support the hobby or from a supplier of lifetime gauranteed tools?

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/rockne10/51x2.jpg'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

DEEPNHOCK
11-08-2009, 08:52 AM
Saw this rig on a different website[:0]......

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/HarrisHubPuller.jpg

Put the nut on flush, and support it with a jackstand...
Ought to work....
Jeff[8D]

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/1937CEBearfootingArtwithLabelgif-1.jpghttp://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/SDClogo4forum.jpghttp://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/StudebakerTruckFarmerStickerA-1.jpghttp://www.racingstudebakers.com/avatar_01.jpghttp://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/GatorDadBigjpg-1-1.jpg

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

gordr
11-08-2009, 09:41 AM
That hydraulic jobbie might work, but it was clearly a lot of work to make, and there is a lot of stretch in those lo-ong pieces of Redi Rod.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

rusty nut garage
11-08-2009, 10:15 AM
that makes my back hurt just looking at the picture


quote:Originally posted by gordr

That hydraulic jobbie might work, but it was clearly a lot of work to make, and there is a lot of stretch in those lo-ong pieces of Redi Rod.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands


http://i401.photobucket.com/albums/pp100/rustynutgarage/100_0133-1.jpg
Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
57 SH (project)
60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

DEEPNHOCK
11-08-2009, 10:53 AM
Maybe add a caster to one end?;)
I agree, it's a monster, but it also has some advantages...
Just though I'd toss out someone else's efforts for yucks..
The rods look like truck u-bolts 'as new' before they get put in the bender...
You'd never hurt one of them....
Jeff[8D]


quote:Originally posted by gordr

That hydraulic jobbie might work, but it was clearly a lot of work to make, and there is a lot of stretch in those lo-ong pieces of Redi Rod.

4961Studebaker
11-08-2009, 11:34 AM
That Hoss is not going to fit in my box of "specialty" tools[B)] :D

Plenty of power to get the job done!, though.

ChopStu
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q14/kkad0711/IMG_5406-1.jpg
136 weeks till completion.

Dick Steinkamp
11-08-2009, 11:43 AM
quote:Originally posted by John Kirchhoff

I understand completely, vegas paul. I had one last fall that was just like yours. The first one came off like the other guys described but the other one was like yours, heating, cranking down the puller until I couldn't turn the wrench anymore, whack, more heat, quench and so on. I think I said a few words also.


If you are using a wrench to tighten the puller you either have the wrong puller or you are missing a part to yours. You should have an arm on the end of the threaded rod that you strike with a BFH.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31ca6B488AL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

You can't get enough force on the hub with a wrench, plus I don't know how you would hold the axle from turning.

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww63/dstnkmp/stude-2-1.jpg

studegary
11-08-2009, 12:22 PM
quote:Originally posted by bige

Last time I had them off the passenger side launched itself about 2 feet while I was going for the bigger hammer.

ErnieR



There are two reasons you should reverse the nut and put it on flush with the end of the threads before attempting to pull the hub.
1) To prevent what you had happen from happening and injuring someone or breaking the drum.
2) To prevent mushrooming of the end of the axle, thus requiring cutting/chasing the threads.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

Johnnywiffer
11-09-2009, 11:29 AM
I have the puller and it usually works (with heat and a bigger hammer).

But, being the lazy person I am and as many others have suggested in other threads, it's easier to loosen the axle nut 2 or 3 turns and drive around a corner a few times. You can feel (and hear) it pop.

I wouldn't drive far from home because, obviously, the brake will be hanging up on the drum.

John

tluz
11-09-2009, 11:07 PM
Hey, guys,

Dick, my puller has a six-point bolt on top but no handle. A six-point socket and a torque wrench applied plenty of pressure. Two shots with a light sledge and "pop." No sweat. Another triumph for brute force and ignorance!

fmarshall
11-10-2009, 08:22 PM
You hit your torque wrench with a sledge hammer? I guess it has now been field demoted to a breaker bar!

========================
63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd211/fmarshall_bucket/sigpic.jpg

dean pearson
11-10-2009, 09:17 PM
Sorry for your difficulties,
Could be that the heating thing was the problem. Heating something like that is sometimes a little tricky because when you heat it the I.D. of it will get bigger but when it cools it gets smaller than it was originally.
Most times the trick is to heat the peee out of it the first time and make sure it comes off.
Second time around you are fighting what you did the first time.
I personally have never tryed this removing a hub, Mine came off just with a BFH and a good amount of determination.
although at my work I heat camber "I" beams all the time.
Just 2 cents from a dumb Ironworker/welder.

Dean.