I am going to change the Hdravac on a 63 Hawk can I just bleed the Hydravac it's a disc brake car, and they only have one bleeder, has anyone done this before?
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Bleeding a Hdravac on a 63 Hawk
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Not real sure what you mean by "JUST" bleed the hydovac? If you mean NOT the wheels, air is air, once it enters the system no matter where, it has to be removed because it will move around and you cannot have ANY air in the system for dependable braking.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
SDC Member Since 1967
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Rich is right on, you will need to bleed the whole system
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Originally posted by StudeRich View PostNot real sure what you mean by "JUST" bleed the hydovac? If you mean NOT the wheels, air is air, once it enters the system no matter where, it has to be removed because it will move around and you cannot have ANY air in the system for dependable braking.
I guess what we should talk about is how to make the choice about what to bleed and when to stop bleeding. If the pedal is hard when first depressed after sitting for, what, an hour or so and doesn't stop at the same foot pressure in a higher place on the second pump, then you are good to go. Squishy pedals or pedals that 'rise' on the second pump need more bleeding. Right guys?Tim K.
\'64 R2 GT Hawk
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These are tougher to bleed than one might think. There is a trick on which valve to open first, etc. I just posted this question on the technical forum page a couple of weeks ago and received a very detailed, excellent reply that worked perfectly. You might wanted to look at the posting under that forum. It was for the power booster on my 58 Packard sedan. I wish I could find the link, but can't. Here is another helpful link.
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