Losing my nuts and bolts(mind)

[rickburgen]

I put back my starter in and had to put back the exhaust pipe. I misplaced one of the two bolts! Does anybody have the specs of the bolt. I would just measure the one I do have, but getting it in was a pain in the neck.

[N8N]

are you talking about the starter bolts? Those are special, you need the real deal factory shoulder bolt. If you are talking about the downpipe to manifold connection, that should be a stud with a brass nut on it. I think 5/16" coarse on the manifold end and fine thread on the nut end. If you have a factory exhaust system you should not have needed to drop the exhaust to replace the starter though.

nate

[rickburgen]

I was referring to the exhaust bolts. I had to remove the exhaust pipe, there was no way I was gunna get that starter out. I did not drop the whole exhaust, just the end that connect to the manifold.

[DieselJim]

They are 3/8-16. Jim

[nibbs53]

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com/2007/06/studebaker-starter-bolts.html

[N8N]

Jim is right, I'd already packed away my parts books but had the info on my HD, they are 3/8. you can buy a "manifold repair kit" from any number of vendors that will have the correct studs, nuts, washers, and gaskets. I highly recommend using the brass nuts on studs because they don't seize like bolts do, and if the studs rust so badly that they strip, they are easy to burn off and then you can rethread the studs.

nate

[tluz]

Don't know whether I should start a new thread, but it sorta seems on topic. Is there a source for the "special" starter bolts? When I took out the starter a year ago I didn't know that the bolts were special and they got mixed in with a bunch of other engine bolts. The starter is back in the car, held in by a pair of bolts that seemed to fit just fine.

What are the specs on these bolts? What's the big deal? What happens if they are unobtainable and I fire the old girl up with bolts that might be an eighth of an inch (or whatever) too something or other? Every time I read this section I learn another reason why GM guys think Studebakers are humorous.

[N8N]

the specialness of them is that they are shoulder bolts; the starter is located relative to the crank centerline by the bolt holes. Possible to chew up a flywheel if the starter is too far away. This isn't a unique problem to Studes though; SBCs use shims to get correct starter alignment, which is even more hokey.

nate

[tluz]

Oh, I see. My local hardware store sells shoulder bolts and Fasten-All is nearby. Anybody know the specs?

[N8N]

this has been discussed before on the forum

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?33121-Correct-bolts-to-install-starter-on-V8-%28E7-pickup%29&highlight=starter+bolt

unfortunately I don't think links posted prior to the forum upgrade work, so you may have some searching to do. Can't say whether the specs are in the parts books or not as I've already packed 'em all up.

nate

[jackb]

did you ever have starter noise or problems after you "maybe" mixed up the bolts ? IF not, you probably have the right ones in there....

[rickburgen]

Are these bolts correct? http://www.rmsautoparts.com/proddetail.php?prod=3909821

[N8N]

nope, correct is a stud, 3/8 UNC on the manifold end and 3/8 UNF on the other end. Then the downpipe attaches to the manifold with two 3/8" UNF brass nuts and washers.

Get the "manifold repair kit" from any number of vendors and it will have everything you need.

nate

[StudeRich]

Those are BOLTS, they are used for Exhaust Manifold to Cyl. Head. You want Exhaust Pipe Flange STUDS, 3/8" U.S. Course X 3/8 " NF (Fine) Thread, and fine thread 3/8" Brass Nuts with flat washers.

[StudeSchack]

What specific vendors sell the "manifold repair kit"

Put that in a few search engines and can't seem to find what you're talking about

Thanks