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  • No spark dilemma

    At least, that's what I think I'm dealing with. UGH! I've got a 63 Lark Stude V8 with a Pertronix Ignitor ignition and if the car sits for, say, a week, it doesn't want to start. My first thought is fuel, but I prime the lines a few seconds with my electric pump and can smell the gas in the carb.

    I have a known good pertronix coil (watched it being tested) and my neighbor, who's a caddy tech at the local dealer, suggested i swap the rotor with a known good one. Did that to no avail. My next move is to pull a plug wire and get it near a ground while cranking. If I get no spark - and i think that'll be the case - I'm going to suspect it's the pertronix module.

    Any ideas would be appreciated. I do have a VOM. Thanks!!

  • #2
    You can go to almost any local auto parts store and buy one of those little "in line" spark testers. The last ones I bought were under 5 bucks. Just clip it between a plug wire and a spark plug that you can get a good "line of sight" on as you crank the engine over. If you are getting a good spark, the little light in the tester will give a bright flash. It is a great tool to have and works for cars, lawn mowers, tractors, etc. Everybody should have one in their tool box.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC

    SDC member since 1975

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    • #3
      ANYTHING....can go bad...! Points/condensor...there are several ways this pair will go bad...!

      The Mallory Unilite that's in Dave distributor has been around for MANY years. I've used both the Mallory and the Pertrinix for "many" years with no problems. You can blow out the LED in the Mallory box easy enough with an add on box like the MSD....wihich is a great add-on by the way. I believe the Pertronix and the MSD aren't particularlly friendly either. But then I've heard by the Pertronix people that they can be made to work together.
      The most current Pertronix unit supposedly has the capability of added power, but still less thAn the MSD box.

      In any case...both the above units are MOSTLY reliable and capible units...but as I said, anything can break..!

      Tom -
      I'd get a hold of Pertronix....and talk to them. They'll have more proper answers thAn you can get from us as to problems you may encounter. Hell....they may even send you a new unit if yours turns out to be bad..!

      Mike

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      • #4
        I'd say the first clue not yet discussed is
        if the car sits for, say, a week, it doesn't want to start.
        Electronic modules don't usually exhibit that failure mode. They are more likely to start when cold and then fail when hot than fail cold after sitting for a week. You imply but don't state the car eventually will start. If that is the case, it probably isn't the Pertronix. Begin by checking and cleaning all the electrical connections from the battery posts on out.

        jack vines
        PackardV8

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        • #5
          I installed one of Dave Thibeaults Mallory distributors in one of my cars over a year ago and it works great so far.


          Originally posted by cbcarolbarrel
          I have heard of pertronics going bad. This sort of accentuates the reliabilty of a good or rebuilt Delco or Prestolite that uses points. Wait a second. Isn't that one of the reasons for switching to Pertronics. I see where Dave T-Bow markets a brand new pointless aftermarket for around 400. Any body have any experience with his unit?
          Frank van Doorn
          Omaha, Ne.
          1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
          1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
          1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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          • #6
            Thanks Guys!

            I get no spark at the plug, so pulled the cap wire and got it near a ground...no spark.
            No voltage at the + coil on cranking either, so I suspect my module has gone bad.
            Better it happen in the garage than a parking lot!

            Comment


            • #7
              Remember the Jim Turner Mantra...

              "It's gonna be a ground"

              (Keep things basic.. Check one thing at a time... Double check your circuits...Triple check your grounds).
              HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

              Jeff


              Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



              Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

              Comment


              • #8
                My Pertonix unit is in my '53, with six volts, but has its own ground, in addition to grounding through the points, I'm not sure this will help, but it might be the problem.

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you have no voltage at the + side of the coil while cranking there is something wrong with the power supply from the ignition switch to the coil.
                  Frank van Doorn
                  Omaha, Ne.
                  1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                  1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                  1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Frank, you mean like a bad switch, switch connection or wire from the switch to the coil?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Also check the wire connections on the back of the amp meter. Hope this may help.

                      Dan Miller
                      Auburn, GA

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                      • #12
                        Yes Tom, you need to check all those because the problem could be any of those.

                        Originally posted by tomnoller View Post
                        Frank, you mean like a bad switch, switch connection or wire from the switch to the coil?
                        Frank van Doorn
                        Omaha, Ne.
                        1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                        1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                        1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
                          Remember the Jim Turner Mantra...

                          "It's gonna be a ground"

                          (Keep things basic.. Check one thing at a time... Double check your circuits...Triple check your grounds).

                          It might be the float level. You never know! ;-)
                          Ron Dame
                          '63 Champ

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by 41 Frank View Post
                            Yes Tom, you need to check all those because the problem could be any of those.
                            A more honest answer: Pertonix can fali if the ignition is n for over 1 minute without the engine running.
                            Ron Dame
                            '63 Champ

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