1950 Champion first check out

[aflenk]

Hello everyone. I am new to the Studie World, and liken every minute of it. I am darn close at picking up a neighbors 1950 Champion Regal Sedan. It has not run in 15 years or so. I have been reading tirelessly on anything Champion related. I want to try and turn over the motor and check the workings of this girl. Try and see what I am getting myself into. Here is my plan of attack check list: New 6v battery, new spark plugs, fuel pump inspection, "run" engine off gas can (clean fuel), Oil change, prime engine with fuel some how, try and get it to run.

HERE is the question. The owner is in SC and the car is in central Texas. No keys. I can jump it but can I get under the hood without the keys if the doors are locked? If I can get under the hood, what is the process of jumping the motor? I am interested in becoming apart of the Central Texas Stude club asap, but I wanted to get this out because I want to do this in the next few days.
One last question here: If ya'll were doing what I am about to do(I am sure most of you have), what am I missing as far as inspection? Thanks a million for the help.

Eric Lenk-"The Green Horn"

[52-fan]

The hood latch can be reached with a long screwdriver or bar by reaching up from the bottom according to some of the posts I have seen on here in the past. Maybe someone will chime in with the details.

[Lothar]

See this thread for hood opening info: http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...-Release-Cable

As far as what to do to try out the engine, I think that you should squirt a little "Sea Foam", or at least some motor oil into the spark plug holes and let it sit for a few hours before you try to turn it over.

[nvonada]

Sounds like a great way to spend the summer! Good luck with the resurrection
.
Considering the probable condition of the window rubber you probably can get a coat hanger or welding rod in there and snag the lock or window crank enough to gain entry. The vent window handle is snagable too.

I would make sure the engine is free and intact before you load up on parts. That can be hard from a distance. But it would be a shame to buy parts and find the block cracked or a piston frozen. You also could verify it has not been converted to 12V. I would also change the oil BEFORE trying to run it and replace the spark plug wires with the plugs. Hoses are probably all shot but you can fire it without that.

I am 90% sure the 50 ignition switch is very similar to my car. The key switch and coil are connected via an "armored" cable that ends in a cap that is attached to the top of the coil with 4 bent tabs. Unbend the tabs (gently! they will crack off!), run 6V to the coil, and you should be able to run the engine. You can then take the whole cable and key switch assembly to a locksmith and get a key made. With any luck that same key will work on the doors...

[50Champ]

That's cool that you're going to get another '50 Champion back on the road. Keep us informed on your progress and don't forget the pics!!!

[BobGlasscock]

yeah, 50 Champions rule!

[starlightchamp]

Don't forget that the car is positive ground off the battery.

[jclary]

Remember that the start switch is not in the ignition switch. It is the button under the clutch. (sorry, but I don't know how experienced you are with these things). I would take all the plugs out (keep them in proper sequence so that you don't cross the wires) Take the coil wire loose so that you do not have a potential ignition source for any gas fumes hanging in the air and then turn the engine over with no compression just to prime the oil pump and pre lubricate the engine before firing it up. If you are going to run it off a gas can, be very careful how you do that. The last thing you want is a gas fire under the hood. Firing up an engine that has sat that long could have the potential to cough some flames back through the carburetor due to sticking valves when trying to sputter back to life.

[studeclunker]

As a source for Resurrection day, and so that it won't be overly dramatic, try using a boat tank. They're portable, and have a nib to attach a long fuel line. I attach about six feet and put it to the fuel pump or cut the fuel line behind the right wheel-well and attach the line there. It can be patched with a short bit of rubber fuel line later. Good accessable place for a filter too.

I'd put the tank on the roof and secure it there. That way you have gravity as well as the fuel pump. You can secure the tank with a friction strap attached to the gutters and run over the top of the tank. I wouldn't drive it that way, but it's safe enough for a test run.


This car had a roof rack, so I didn't strap it down as it wasn't moving.

If one is unsure of the condition of the motor and wants to turn it over, the suggestion of removing the plugs first is a very wise one. That way, the motor won't have compression to deal with as well. Me, I'd get some adhesive tags and number the spark-plug wires as they're pulled off. It's just too easy to mix them up, LOL!

Marvel mystery oil and or liquid Wrench are both good products to put in those cylinders to facilitate the wake-up call. As they used to say for Brillcream, a little dab'll do ya. The cylinders don't need much more than a few tablespoons. Just change the oil again afterwards. Then again, it might be good for the engine to have that stuff cleaning the crud for a little while at least. Whatever you do, don't put the spark-plugs back in till the oil has been worked out of the cylinders. It won't take long.

[aflenk]

Thanks Everbody

I sure appreciate all the responses. I will keep ya'll posted. Pictures soon!

Eric

[r1lark]

Studeclunker, that is a good idea about the boat gas tank!! Thanks for sharing that.