View Full Version : Removing undercoating

04-08-2007, 10:56 AM
I am looking for a chemical that can remove undercoating. I have time to let it soak, Is there a chemical on the market I can get from an auto parts store?

Studebakers forever!

04-08-2007, 11:54 AM
I scraped as much dry stuff as I could, then misted with diesel fuel. It doesn't quickly evaporate like thinner would, and less issue with volatile fumes.

41 Frank
04-08-2007, 12:20 PM
I use a heat gun to soften it up and scrape it off with a putty knife,easiest way I've used.

04-08-2007, 03:09 PM

04-08-2007, 09:45 PM
It's a dirty job -- but someone's gotta do it. Any way you approach that, it's disgusting; even on a rotisery (spell-czech). About blasting: That won't work -- it'll bounce right back at the blaster. Aircraft stripper will make it go away, but I've had better luck with a BIG rose-bud on a propane bottle, scrapers, etc. That's what I'll do next time as well. Either way, (heat or chemicals) I'd highly recomend usin' a good-fresh organic-vapor respirator.

I caught a similar discussion on another board I frequent; and someone there suggested that perhaps undercoating would release if frozen. If that experiment panned-out well, I'll git back to yawl. RR

Faster than a rusting bullet... Gopher Grove, CA

04-09-2007, 12:46 AM
Nitrogen is an inert gas. It had better NOT be flammable. It's packed in our bags of potato chips to flush out the oxygen and thus prevent "oxidation". And it makes up 80% of the air we breathe.


1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
[i]The Red-Headed Amazon
Deep in the heart of Texas

04-09-2007, 06:30 AM
Apply heat with a heat gun or torch. undercoating softens and will scrape right off.

04-09-2007, 03:51 PM
I finally used some engine gunk and a electric wre brush to clean up the kingpin, it looked so rusty the other day. I took grease and moves like hot butter. The steering will be a breeze and it's power.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v145/mr1940/IMG_0288.jpg

Studebakers forever!

04-10-2007, 08:24 AM
Just finished a '68 F--d Convertible with factory undercoating. Used a pneumatic scraper then used paint thinner. The scraper I purchased from Harbor Freight several years ago, they no longer carry it. It does a great job on flat surfaces, not as well on the curved metal. The scraper bits can be replaced, so I bought some 1/8" X 1" stock from the local hardware store and made some different shaped bits to go around curved areas. Then use a little paint thinner or laquor thinner and it cleans up great. The last thing we did was use sanding disks to clean up the metal. Try googling "Pneumatic scraper", it will come up with a scraper kit that has several tips for about $35, then you can make your own bits... enjoy...!

Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
Warner Robins, GA 31088

04-10-2007, 08:09 PM
use heat and a scraper it takes i little while but works great

04-10-2007, 10:18 PM
Diesel fuel or kerosene will work, but I prefer to try to chip the bulk of it off dry rather than deal with a gooey mess. I just use the solvent after I've got the big chunks off.


55 Commander Starlight

Maine Hawk
04-15-2007, 05:02 PM
In my years of Body Work & Restorations I've found gasket scrapers and putty knives the best, also the colder it is,the better as it comes off cleaner in chunks and pieces than if heated and allowed to get "Gooey" Maine Hawk

04-17-2007, 08:37 AM
quote:Originally posted by Maine Hawk

In my years of Body Work & Restorations I've found gasket scrapers and putty knives the best, also the colder it is,the better as it comes off cleaner in chunks and pieces than if heated and allowed to get "Gooey" Maine Hawk

In my years of doing the same, I much prefer the heat and scrape method over the cold method. Done a lot of both, always heat it up now-a-days. Any residue can easily be wiped off with rag and thinner of which should be done no matter which method you use.

04-17-2007, 09:07 PM
Avoid volatile thinners and, whatever method you choose, expect to get dirty.