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View Full Version : How do you replace the seal in a Ross unit?



lstude
04-08-2007, 08:13 AM
I am so ready to put the front clip back on my 52 Commander, but I have one last PITA repair to do. The Ross steering gear box is leaking fluid bad. I have bought a new seal and gasket from SI. I also have the shop manual, but it says that I need a special tool to get the pitman arm off. Will a tie rod separator tool do it?

I know there was a thread on what kind of lubricant to use in Ross steering gear boxes, but was there a thread on replacing the seal?

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Steeringgearleak003.jpg


Leonard Shepherd, editor, The Commanding Leader, Central Virginia Chapter, http://centralvirginiachapter.org/
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Mein64Daytonasm.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/52inyardsm-1.jpg

gordr
04-08-2007, 12:13 PM
Leonard, is there a nut or bolt missing from the brake line clip at the base of the steering box flange?

You need a Pitman arm puller to remove the Pitman arm. The fork on a tie rod separator is too narrow, and you risk damaging the seal recess. You ought to be able to rent the correct tool, or get one at Harbor Freight.

I think SI sells the special semi-fluid grease. I have used CV joint grease with moly in it, and it seems to work.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

lstude
04-08-2007, 04:52 PM
Gord, I should have read your reply before I started dismantling the unit. I used my tie rod separator and I think I may have damaged the teeth on the shaft. Everything was going fine until I put the pitman arm back on. I can't get it to go all the way on even by turning the nut on the end of the shaft. It seems to me that the pitman arm has to go all the way to the seal or the seal will just pop out. The teeth don't look damaged on the shaft, though.

I am going to wait and get a pitman arm remover before I try to get the pitman arm off again.

I was shocked at how simple the steering box is. There are only 2 moving parts.

I am glad that I went into the box, because about a half cup if water came out of it. The car has never been out in the rain since I have owned it, so I don't know where it came from. Nothing was rusty inside, though. Here are some pics.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Steeringgearbox007.jpg

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Steeringgearbox009.jpg


Leonard Shepherd, editor, The Commanding Leader, Central Virginia Chapter, http://centralvirginiachapter.org/
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Mein64Daytonasm.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/52inyardsm-1.jpg

41 Frank
04-08-2007, 05:24 PM
Leonard the pitman arm does not go all the way up to the seal,the seal should be a press fit.If you look at your first photo before you removed it you can see it only goes on so far as the shaft is slightly tapered.

lstude
04-08-2007, 05:32 PM
quote:Leonard the pitman arm does not go all the way up to the seal,the seal should be a press fit.If you look at your first photo before you removed it you can see it only goes on so far as the shaft is slightly tapered.

Yeah, I looked at that, but the new seal doesn't fit very tight. Maybe SI sent me the wrong one, or maybe I can get it to go in farther.
Here is a pic of the seal.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Steeringgearbox010.jpg

41 Frank
04-08-2007, 06:32 PM
The seal should go in at least flush with the casting and if it does not fit tight maybe they did send the wrong one. According to S.I. catalog he should have sent you a 679257. I don't have a parts book for 1952 so I cant double check it.

Yeah, I looked at that, but the new seal doesn't fit very tight. Maybe SI sent me the wrong one, or maybe I can get it to go in farther.
Here is a pic of the seal.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Steeringgearbox010.jpg



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52 Ragtop
04-08-2007, 09:04 PM
The seal fits flush to the housing, I just replaced one in a gear box that I have installed all new parts in for my 52 ragtop. I used a wheel bearing race installer and tapped it in flush. The shaft in yours looks good.
I've thought about the C/V joint grase too, but, I'll probably get the correct lubre from SI.

Jim

lstude
04-08-2007, 09:10 PM
Thanks for the info. I can get the seal flush, but I was worried that it would pop out, because it seems too loose and nothing is holding it in. I just didn't want to go through all this and have it leak again.

I have a caulk tube of lubricant that I got from SI.

hank63
04-09-2007, 08:49 AM
The seal has to sit against the cylindrical part of the sector shaft (above the splines) or it won't seal. I recently fixed a brand X strg box oil leak which was caused by the seal sitting flush with the housing end, but NOT above the splines. Guess if the oil came out quick!
Simple solution, I just pushed the new seal further in (not to touch the splines).
/H

John Kirchhoff
04-09-2007, 12:24 PM
I don't know how loose loose is, but if it's loose enough to come out with just your fingers or such, it's definately too loose. If it's just not as snug as you think it needs to be, with the shaft out you could take a center punch and make a lot of little dimples in the machined area where the seal fits. You'd be surprised how much play that will take out of things.