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rayoung55
04-06-2007, 07:15 PM
What direction does the heat riser arm go when it is installed? Toward the manifold (up) or away from the manifold (down). I think it is supposed to go up and drop down when it warms up, but when installed that way, it seems to rub on the manifold.

Thanks for the help!

Rob

lstude
04-06-2007, 08:03 PM
Here is the one on mine. I assume it is right. It seems to work.

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Heatriser001.jpg



Leonard Shepherd, editor, The Commanding Leader, Central Virginia Chapter, http://centralvirginiachapter.org/
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Mein64Daytonasm.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/52inyardsm-1.jpg

StudeRich
04-07-2007, 01:58 AM
Rob, you didn't say what model or year. It sounds like you are describing a V-8, if you have a 232 or 232 manifolds, a 259/289 heat riser will not open. Also if you have the wrong gaskets or the butterfly is not centered on the shaft it will not open. I have seen headpipes where a muffler shop has tried to use those universal slip-on pipe flanges on a flared head pipe, and they also hit the heat riser.

If any of these fit your situation that would be the problem. Is the heat riser original like Leonard's or aftermarket as in new in the last 15 years? Those have a counterweight unlike the original one, they're round like a Cadillac and sometimes the butterfly needs grinding to fit.

Leonard; nice full-flow block and original heat riser, remind me NOT to hire your painter! LOL :D:D

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

lstude
04-07-2007, 05:04 AM
quote: Leonard; nice full-flow block and original heat riser, remind me NOT to hire your painter! LOL


Thanks, I am the painter [B)] I am planing to paint the exhaust manifolds black, but I haven't done it yet. How can you tell it is a full flow block from that photo?

Leonard Shepherd, editor, The Commanding Leader, Central Virginia Chapter, http://centralvirginiachapter.org/
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/Mein64Daytonasm.jpghttp://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l288/lstude/52inyardsm-1.jpg

rayoung55
04-07-2007, 01:58 PM
The engine is a 259 in a '60 Lark. Th manual shows one that looks like the one in the picture above, but mine is a different design. More of a single bar with a weight on the end. I took the grinder to the part that was rubbing some and fixed the problem. I'm putting Silvertone duals on the the car.

Thanks for everyones input. It helped!!

Rob

StudeRich
04-08-2007, 04:46 AM
Leonard; just kidding ya, I had a pretty good idea that was your fresh red overspray and runs, but it probably was not important at the time or not finished. Or you could have bought it that way, I didn't really know! :)

What I do know, is that the block drain plug moved forward to give room for the full flow filter AND even more noticeable is the CUP type core plugs both only on full flow late '62 to '64's! [:0]

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

lstude
04-10-2007, 04:43 AM
quote:What I do know, is that the block drain plug moved forward to give room for the full flow filter AND even more noticeable is the CUP type core plugs both only on full flow late '62 to '64's!

Thanks for that info. May come in handy sometime.