Rear Leaf Spring Question

[Dougie]

I'm in the planning stages of a power upgrade (V8 swap) for my recently acquired 62 Lark. I'm going to change the Dana 27 for a Dana 44 and looking at the rear springs, I noticed that the driver side spring has a shackle that is about 1 1/2" longer than the one on the passenger side. The car sits level with this arrangement. I assume this was done by a previous owner to compensate for a weak spring. So my question is what is the best way to address this? Are there heavier duty springs I should be using and if so where can I get them? Are new springs availble? I haven't been able to find any looking at the lmited sources I know about. Can the old springs be reworked somehow? Thanks for any help you can offer.

[Gunslinger]

Old springs can be reworked by a competent spring shop. You can also buy new leaf springs from Eaton Corp. or new composite leaf springs from Flex-a-Form. They each have the specs in their data bases and can make you a set within days and ship it. It will cost about $400-$450 for them. The steel springs from Eaton will be more costly to ship since each spring weighs roughly fifty pounds while the composite springs weight about eight pounds each.

You can compare new springs against what a spring shop will redo yours for.

[silverhawk]

There is NOS heavy duty rear springs available from Dave Thibeault, for 139.95. That might be a good option for you, depending on what you want to do with the car.

[Dougie]

That sounds like a good option. Thanks for the tip.

[bams50]

What would be the pros and cons of a composite spring in a Stude application- besides the weight savings?

[Gunslinger]

What would be the pros and cons of a composite spring in a Stude application- besides the weight savings?

I have the composite springs on my Avanti and have nothing but positive things to say about them. For a racing application I'm not sure they would be best...while taking weight off is usually a positive thing, the composite springs takes weight off where it's needed on a front heavy Studebaker...off the rear where they can keep the rear tires from hooking up quickly. Maybe ordering a particular spring rate can eliminate that issue. I haven't noticed a problem with that in my car but I don't race it either.

In general, composite springs last longer (Corvettes have used them for thirty years without problems), and don't suffer fatigue and de-arch like steel units can...and don't rust and look unsightly. There's always exceptions as anything that's man-made can fail. You can have them made to specific spring rates to tune them to a particular need.

They're not the be-all and end-all to the automotive world...nothing is. They fit certain needs and cost within a few dollars of new steel springs...maybe no difference when you figure in shipping costs considering their light weight. As I said, I'm happy with mine. From the time I ordered them to when they were received was about a week and a half.

[woodysrods]

Hey Gunslinger
Why do youlike these springs ?
Good Roads
Brian

[Gunslinger]

Hey Gunslinger
Why do youlike these springs ?
Good Roads
Brian

When my Avanti was being rebuilt, it needed front coil springs as they were sagging and I wanted either new leaf springs, or have the originals rebuilt. I did some research and felt the composite springs were the best way to go for the money. I was also actively trying to take unnecessary weight out of the car...the composite springs dropped maybe ninety pounds of unsprung weight off it. Other things I did to remove weight was change transmissions (aluminum case 700R4 in place of the cast iron case Borg Warner), an aluminum driveshaft and a few other things.

As far as ride quality...the car still has a pretty stiff ride so little if any difference there.

[junior]

I have no idea about Larks, but I do know my 54 Champion had different length shackles from the factory, but the Commanders were the same length. IIRC, the difference was about 3/4". Perhaps 6cyl. Larks were produced the same way? Just a thought. Junior.

[sweetolbob]

Posted by Gunslinger

I was also actively trying to take unnecessary weight out of the car...the composite springs dropped maybe ninety pounds of unsprung weight off it.

Bruce, Where did you purchase the composite springs? Thanks, Bob

[Gunslinger]

I bought them from Flex-a-Form...great to deal with. I called and talked to them and found they have the specs in their database. As I said before, it took maybe a week and a half to get them. www.flex-a-form.com

[Dougie]

Dave Thibeault quoted me $189/ea for new HD 6 leaf springs with bushings. He said these were used on wagons, taxis and cop cars. He is going to be making new ones, as he is out of NOS.

I have another question if I may hijack my own thread. When you do a front disc brake conversion , or add rear disc brakes, ie if you install an Explorer or Ranger rear axle, would there be any clearance issues with the stock 15" steel wheels on a 62 Lark. I want to keep them because I love the look with the little hub caps.

[StudeRich]

Wouldn't that depend on the (Unknown) width or track of the Ranger Rear End?

[Dougie]

I was thinking more in the line of will there be any interference between the back of the wheel and the caliper. I Also have a Ford Explorer which is supposed to have the same rear end. This weekend I'm going pull a rear wheel off of it and see if the Lark wheel fits. That should give me a pretty good idea.

[sbca96]

I have been kicking around the composite springs for a while, your posts on AOAI
answered a lot of questions. Reducing unsprung weight it always good, then you
can add it back in where needed if the loss of weight effects traction too much in
the front biased Avanti. I am going to get a quote on rebuilding my old springs for
the time being, and possibly pull the trigger on composites "down the road". I am
not sure how they would work with the Gib-tracs, since they tension the spring at
the front, and that could cause a stress riser a composite spring can not absorb.

Tom