289 ENGINE and TRANSMISSION REBUILD

[The Hawk]

[SIZE="2"]I have just purchased my first Studebaker, a 1962 GT Hawk.
My goal for this cool car is to reuild and upgrade the necessary components to provide a presentable and reliable daily driver, both city and highway (80 mph).

My first project will be rebuilding and upgrading the engine and transmission. It must be said at this time that I am not a technical mechanic. However, I can turn wrenches and somewhat understand what and why things need to be done.

ENGINE:

• 289 2 barrel, stock
• Compression - around 110 all cylinders
• Goal: Rebuild (bore?) the block with quality parts. (pistons, bearings, etc.) QUESTION: What should be done and where can I get the parts?
• Upgrade intake, carb and ignition with newer parts. QUESTION: What has been done with others and what works best?
• Other add-ons that improve reliability and performance. MY THOUGHTS: eg: fuel pump,air cleaner, heads (on the rebuild), charging system, water pump, etc. YOUR THOUGHTS: Anything that has been done and proven.

TRANSMISSION:

• Stock 2-speed automatic (no overdrive)
• Goal: Rebuild and/or upgrade to provide performance and dependability. QUESTION: What needs to be done here? I have no idea on how this goal can be achieved.
  

Feel free to contact me through any means.

• Forum
• Phone: 306-729-4942
• email: gmclean2007@hotmail.com
• Mail:

Greg McLean
P.O. Box 3151,
Regina, SK,
Canada, S4P 3G7

In advance, "thanks everybody"

The Hawk

[sbca96]

Just to bring you up to speed, you actually have a 3 spd auto, it just seems like
a 2 spd because it starts in 2nd gear. If you manually select 1st, you will be a
pleasently surprised driver as to the extra "giggy-up" your Hawk just found.

Tom

[bams50]

Welcome Greg!

Some random thoughts:

1. Don't be too quick to rebuild. Stude engines are rather tough. Does it run now? Do a leakdown test. There's a good chance all you'll need is to refresh the heads, clean out the oil pan, knock out all the soft plugs and thoproughly clean the passages. Crank, bearings, rings, and pistons may well be fine as is. Definitely do more diagnostics before completely rebuilding.

2. Rebuild carb, clean out fuel tank and lines.

3. Convert to Pertronix ignition.

4. Completely refresh every part of the brake system.

5. Try to get it running first, that way you can try the trans. If it shifts right, a fluid/filter refresh is probably all you'll need.

6. Keep us posted. Any part you would need for any part of the car is available through our vendors. We'll point you where. Get your list and just let us know!

Of course there's more; I'll let others add in. Have fun! And, how about pictures??

[StudeRich]

My suggestions are pretty much the same as as noted above, but my experience with Stude. V-8's has told me that in MOST cases, the best route is to not stop at the heads, & cooling system as far as the engine is concerned.

While it MAY not need Rings, Rods and Mains I usually do them while it's down if they are even close to needing them and they USUALLY do. You can cut the Cylinder ridge, Hone them and not have to replace the Pistons. But measuring the taper, out of round and the ridge at the top, plus miking the Crank tells the story.

Just DO NOT forget to replace the Cam Bearings, after this many years, acid etching alone can kill those in stored vehicles, and they are THE most often missed reason for low Oil Pressure, leading to engine failure.

They all need cleaning, paint, Gaskets and front & rear Oil Seals, so you will be able to lessen or stop the leaks as well, mostly depending on how well you assemble the Main Seal and Pan Gaskets.

[bams50]

All good points by Rich. I defer to his extensive experience, since my Stude-specific knowledge is very limited at this point. Rich didn't mention that he is also a well-known vendor, as well as a lifelong Stude guy.

Let us know what you find!

[doug]

If you are not a member of the Studebaker Drivers Club, join. Get in touch with local members and find out first hand what you need and where to fine it. Any running Studebaker will turn heads and start a hundred convesations. If it doesn't smoke, I would be too concerned about a complete rebuild aat this time if oil pressure is acceptable.