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garyash
04-01-2007, 09:14 PM
I want to haul my M5 truck (113" wheelbase, 2700 lbs) to South Bend in June - 900 miles each way from Massachusetts wouldn't bother the truck, but it would beat up me and my wife pretty well and there is no A/C. I've looked at used ones, but will probably buy a new one. I also want to be able to haul a Wagonaire (also 113" wheelbase, 3800 lbs) and who knows what else. I've looked at wood deck, steel deck, and open trailers. Brakes on both axles seems to be the new law.

Any brands to recommmend or avoid? Pros and cons of deck types? Electric brakes vs hitch-activated hydraulic? Can I get a decent one for under $2000? I'd love aluminum, but $4000 is not in the budget. Also, enclosed trailers are too expensive for the number of times I plan to use one. What's a good, affordable 16 ft steel, open car hauler? I'm in New England, so West Coast brands don't qualify. I can go south to MD or PA, west to NY, to get one. I have a Ford Expedition to haul with.

[img=left]http://www.studegarage.com/images/gary_ash_m5_sm.jpg[/img=left] Gary Ash
Dartmouth, Mass.
'48 M5
'65 Wagonaire Commander
'63 Wagonaire Standard
web site at http://www.studegarage.com

Randy_G
04-01-2007, 09:58 PM
I use a 16 ft flat bed trailer with a wooden floor, I would prefer what I call a dove tailed trailer, it makes loading and unloading the car much easier. They also have trailers down here in Texas, I know no help but the middle of the trailer is open from front to back and it you need to get to the bottom of your car they can be a blessing and they are dove tailed as well. Someday when my ship comes in if it hasn't sunk already I will get one. :)
Here is a link to one that tilts! Interesting design for sure. This is just an idea getter I know you wont be getting one from Texas.

http://www.bigtextrailers.com/spec/10tl.html

Randy_G
South Bend or Bust 2007!
God I miss chrome on cars.
www.AutomotiveHistoryOnline.com
http://www.automotivehistoryonline.com/sedan4small.jpg

ST2DE5
04-01-2007, 10:31 PM
I had my trailor custom made. It is a 2 rail with open center easy to get too to tie evewrything down. Has dove tail on back it is 18 ft long bull dog hitch with 4 wheel brakes. I had priced other trailors. And having one made the way I wanted was $250 more. And has 16inch wheels. It's plenty strong and weights less than a full covered bottom.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197/wagon56/MoparMeet2.jpg
7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
As soon as you find a product you like they will stop making it.

Guido
04-01-2007, 10:55 PM
Gary,

I have had a Hudson 16' car trailer for the past 20 years that I bought new. I used it a great deal before I bought my rollback. The biggest problem that you will find is that cars tend to drag in the middle as they are loaded, but as Randy points out, a dovetail solves this problem.

I also had a 28' dual tandem gooseneck trailer built but by the time I got it loaded it was more than my International truck wanted to pull. I would stick with a known brand and would suggest that you buy one locally in the event that you need any type of warranty work.

Gary

http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/53/453/1/21/36/2964121360097493054pVJTFL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/88/4/2023288040097493054SEKowB_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/18/19/8/37/21/2050837210097493054IYBJJL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/559/1/43/57/2876143570097493054jKVhDw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/22/22/0/2/68/2589002680097493054ftBuBw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/8/30/30/2075830300097493054aSSlFv_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/459/2/23/86/2067223860097493054YoeGMx_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/5/18/33/2537518330097493054OgEKcN_th.jpg
Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

54-61-62
04-01-2007, 11:39 PM
Go with a closed center trailer - you will find the open center ones sometimes don't allow much space margin for the narrower-track Studes. Also having a solid deck comes in handy if you ever need to move other non-car objects.

Also, be sure to get a trailer with channel or box steel frame. If it has an angle iron frame, walk away.

Some like a dovetail, but I personally don't. Seems to eat up 2' of my usable bed length. Go with an 18' or 20' deck length. 16' is marginal, believe be I sure wish I had 2 extra feet on my 16' trailer when I hauled a 51 big ol Packard.

Kent

Dick Steinkamp
04-02-2007, 12:21 AM
Here's mine...

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/169/443092332_d42c48d1bf.jpg

I bought it last year after doing my usual "too much" research:D.

PJ Trailers...

http://www.pjtrailers.com/

They are a pretty big outfit. My guess is that they have dealers on the East coast also.

16' with a 2' dovetail (18' overall). The dovetail is essential if you plan to load anything low...like my Starliner. Also, it has 5' ramps which are better than the 4' that most come with.

You'd want 4 wheel brakes even if your state didn't require them. Much safer. Also get a breakaway kit (applies trailer brakes if the trailer becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle). Also probably required by your state, but if not you'll want it anyway.

I considered an open deck, but how the heck can you haul a row crop tractor :D. Also, an open deck can tend to get rocks kicked up through it and on to your undercarriage or the sides of the car.

Electric brakes are the only way to go. Much safer. With the new electronic controllers that sense the rate of deceleration, you can stop pretty quickly.

Channel frames are heavier, but well worth the trade off.

The removable aluminum fenders on this one are handy.

Minimum for a good one is about $2300 or so. (I think that's what I paid for this one)

This has been to Omaha and to California several times. Pulls straight and true. No problems.



http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

rayoung55
04-02-2007, 12:46 AM
I agree with what Dick says.

I don't know what maximum weight you are considering hauling, but there have been a few times that I wished I'd bought a trailer rated at 10,000 pounds rather than the 7,000 pound version.

What do others think about this?

Rob

studeclunker
04-02-2007, 12:58 AM
Gary, between the weight of the necessary trailer, the pickup, and the Wagonaire, you'd kill your poor Expedition. Any trailer that could haul both your M5 and a Wagonaire, would be no lightweight. May I suggest you haul the M5 with the Expedition and your wife drive the Wagonaire? That way your trailer will fall right in your budget. A good dovetailed 10k capacity flatbed with the brakes you need shouldn't be a problem. Just make sure you get brakes on both axles and that brake-away.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/december%2006/HPIM0234.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/56%20Parkview%20Wagon/56wagonleftfrontclipped-1.jpg
Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

54-61-62
04-02-2007, 01:00 AM
Taking Dicks lead of posting a pics, here is my trailer. I'll use it as an illustration of what NOT to get:

A) Fenders are too tall to open car door once on trailer. (yes, I've gotten good at crawling out windows or Larks)

B) Bad spot for the trailer lights and plate. Back up to a loading dock and "oops!"

C) 15" wheels. Go for 16" if at all possible. Much easier to find heavy load rating tires.

Worst part is I built this trailer myself several years ago. Perhaps someone can learn from my mistakes.

Kent
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c351/tstclr/64leaving.jpg

Dick Steinkamp
04-02-2007, 01:17 AM
quote:Originally posted by rayoung55
I wished I'd bought a trailer rated at 10,000 pounds rather than the 7,000 pound version.

What do others think about this?


I don't have a tow vehicle rated to tow 10,000 so I didn't consider one.

The trailer capacity rating is all in the axles and tires. I have a buddy with a 10000# rated trailer that is a lot lighter duty than my 7000#.

A true 10000# trailer will probably be a lot more money than a 7000# and weigh substantially more. If your tow vehicle is rated to handle 7000# or less, a 10000# trailer will be cutting into your cargo capacity.

OTOH, IF I had a 1 ton dually diesel pick up, I'd be getting the higher capacity rated trailer. Bigger is better :D

http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

studeclunker
04-02-2007, 01:18 AM
Hey Kent, could'nt you take the left fender off the trailer and put it on hinges like U-Haul does? Here in CA they commonly put the license on the left fender with sheet metal screws.
You shouldn't beat yourself up though. For a home-made trailer, yours looks top notch!:D If you can build such a nice trailer, you can fix the problems.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/december%2006/HPIM0234.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/56%20Parkview%20Wagon/56wagonleftfrontclipped-1.jpg
Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

Kdancy
04-02-2007, 06:36 AM
http://www.texasrollback.net/how.html

Texas rollback --- been wanting one of these for a while!
No ramp loading.

53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
61 Cursed Purple Hawk
64 Champ long bed V8

DEEPNHOCK
04-02-2007, 07:56 AM
I'll stay away from brand name testimonials,
(because great trailer deals are usually regional in nature...)

But....

* Definitely go with electric brakes, and on both axles.
(STAY AWAY FROM HYDRAULIC SURGE BRAKES.)

* Get a new style digital controller like the Tekonsha Prodigy.
http://www.brakecontroller.com/prodigy1.htm

* If you can find a deal with a trailer that has torsion springs...go for it.
(They are a lot smoother, and ride nice. Less parts to wear out. Downside is they can cost more).

* Try and get one that has a deck to fender top height that is LESS than the ground to door bottom height of your truck.
(It is sooooo nice to be able to open the door to get in and out without scraping the fender, or being blocked by the fender).

* Get a beavertail (slightly bent downwards) trailer with self storing ramps that slide in from the back.
(Sliding side stored ramps out the side is a pita, especially if you are loading/unloading in a crowded area).

* Get a (solid) steel deck if you can get the price right on it.
Remember... Studebakers rust, and wood rots...eventually...
(Stay away from open centers, unless you want to crawl under there to work on your truck, or fall in there and hurt yourself ...which you will do sooner or later)...

* Pay the upcharge for LED lighting, if you can get it.

* Pay the upcharge for an uprated tongue jack.
(A bigger jack is easier to crank. But an old guy like you might want to splurge for an electric jack [}:)] ).

Just the musings of a trailer challenged Stude guy....
Jeff[8D]




quote:Originally posted by garyash

I want to haul my M5 truck (113" wheelbase, 2700 lbs) to South Bend in June - 900 miles each way from Massachusetts wouldn't bother the truck, but it would beat up me and my wife pretty well and there is no A/C. I've looked at used ones, but will probably buy a new one. I also want to be able to haul a Wagonaire (also 113" wheelbase, 3800 lbs) and who knows what else. I've looked at wood deck, steel deck, and open trailers. Brakes on both axles seems to be the new law.

Any brands to recommmend or avoid? Pros and cons of deck types? Electric brakes vs hitch-activated hydraulic? Can I get a decent one for under $2000? I'd love aluminum, but $4000 is not in the budget. Also, enclosed trailers are too expensive for the number of times I plan to use one. What's a good, affordable 16 ft steel, open car hauler? I'm in New England, so West Coast brands don't qualify. I can go south to MD or PA, west to NY, to get one. I have a Ford Expedition to haul with.


http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/Jeff%20Rice%20Studebaker%20Pictures/1937StudebakerCoupeExpressJeffRicee.jpg

DEEPNHOCK at Gmail.com
Brooklet, Georgia
'37 Coupe Express (never ending project)
'37 Coupe Express Trailer (project)
'61 Hawk (project)
http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

Stude4x4
04-02-2007, 11:51 AM
Listen to what Jeff said. He pretty much hit all the important points. I cannot stress anymore to go with electric brakes. STAY AWAY FROM SURGE BRAKES. They're just an accident lookin for a place to happen. Decide on what the most weight is that you plan on haluing. Of course with an expedition it won't be as much as a 1 ton diesel. If you plan on buying a truck like that in the future(or even a 3/4 ton diesel) then get a 10k lb trailer. I build all my own stuff so that its exactly how I like it. If thats not possible for you then go with a place locally and keep all of these points in mind.

Jake

-Home of John Studebaker-
http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t95/stude4x4/
http://varozza4x4.com
http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t95/stude4x4/th_505911685npTTka_fs.jpghttp://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t95/stude4x4/th_FullSize.jpghttp://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t95/stude4x4/th_normal_scan.jpg

BShaw
04-02-2007, 01:18 PM
My Bro-in-law and I share a PJ trailer like Dick's except in the 20' size (18' + 2' dovetail) and love it. Bought it new 2 years ago for $2,000 + tax. Pretty much the same construction as most wood-decked trailers I looked at, such as 5" channel, brakes on both axles, mandated breakaway, ramp storage, etc. but it was the dealer's price and easily removable aluminum fenders that tipped the scale for me. We spray the deck with Thompson's wood preservative each fall and so far has kept it nice 'n healthy.

BShaw,Webmaster
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h53/StudeRobert/StudeWebService-small.gif
60 Hawk. 49 2R5, 39 Champion
Woodbury, Minnesota

53k
04-02-2007, 10:45 PM
quote:Originally posted by garyash

I want to haul my M5 truck (113" wheelbase, 2700 lbs) to South Bend in June - 900 miles each way from Massachusetts wouldn't bother the truck, but it would beat up me and my wife pretty well and there is no A/C. I've looked at used ones, but will probably buy a new one. I also want to be able to haul a Wagonaire (also 113" wheelbase, 3800 lbs) and who knows what else. I've looked at wood deck, steel deck, and open trailers. Brakes on both axles seems to be the new law.

Any brands to recommmend or avoid? Pros and cons of deck types? Electric brakes vs hitch-activated hydraulic? Can I get a decent one for under $2000? I'd love aluminum, but $4000 is not in the budget. Also, enclosed trailers are too expensive for the number of times I plan to use one. What's a good, affordable 16 ft steel, open car hauler? I'm in New England, so West Coast brands don't qualify. I can go south to MD or PA, west to NY, to get one. I have a Ford Expedition to haul with.

Gary, in 1983 I decided to buy a trailer. I went with a 16-foot Econo-trailer made by Dively in Claysburg, PA (near Altoona). I had it custom built to my needs- solid deck, beavertail, winch mount (which I never used), stake pockets to I could install sides and carry loose loads. I have the self-storing, pull-out ramps. My trailer weighs 1600 pounds and is rated for 6,000 pounds GVW (might not carry a big Packard, but should handle any Studebaker up to a one-ton truck). It cost me something like $1,400, but that was 24 years ago. I Picked it up at the factory, but I think they work through dealers now. Check their very minimal website at http://www.econotrailer.com/.
I have carried tractors, three cubic yards of mulch, 20-foot boards, half my son's earthly possessions when he moved from WV to Kansas and on and on.
Like others have said, the beavertail is very important. I have had low-sitting Studebakers snag even the beavertail. The self-storing ramps are convenient, but wow they rattle. I had mine made so I could use them in the usual car width or I can put them together in the center for garden tractors, hand carts, etc. My only regret is that I didn't go to 18 feet.


[img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
'53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
'64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
'64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
Museum R-4 engine

55s
04-02-2007, 11:12 PM
I have a homemade $1500 Cdn trailer (15 years ago), dual axle, no brakes. (I always make sure the car brakes are in good shape.) I tow it with a 5500 pound rated Astro van.

It has a Beavertail (Canadian name for dovetail) so the ramps which are self storing are short. In addition, the deck is a little higher, which allows me to open the door and get in or out once the car is loaded. (Lots of people have to climb through windows.!)

A winch pulls on stuff that doesn't move itself, battery is kept in rear of van. Extra come alongs taken when needed. Lots of tie downs, but I usually go with front tire straps and rear chains and really big attached front wheel chocks. I also attach extra lights to extremities.

With a car loaded, the whole rig moves effortlessly. I've moved Packards, a 56J, and other cars.

Paul R

garyash
04-03-2007, 09:45 PM
Thanks for a bunch of good information and useful pictures. I feel better prepared to go talk to the local vendors. Transport seems to cost about $1/mile, so I need to think about going to someplace to pick one up cheaper vs. paying a little more cash for a local one. The trade-off of time vs money is still a difficult one for those of us still employed.

In case it wasn't clear, I didn't need to haul BOTH the M5 and a Wagonaire at the same time, just one or the other. I actually have two Wagonaires, one restored and one needing everything. I did rent a fairly heavy U-Haul trailer and took the M5 to Charlotte in 2004, about 900 miles each way. The Expedition handled it well, though it gave a few protests when I decided to take the route back home through the Skyline Drive in Virginia, up hill and down. The trailer had hitch-activated hydraulic brakes that didn't seem to do much, so the Expedition brakes got hot on the downhill sides. Up hill wasn't a problem. See http://www.studegarage.com/charlotte.htm I also used a U-Haul trailer to bring the 1959 Stude-Porsche to my house from NH a few months back - again, no problem.

So, I'll go looking for a 16-18 ft trailer with electric brakes and 5 ft ramps, while keeping an open mind - and a tight fist on the checkbook - for other options and features. Thanks again!

[img=left]http://www.studegarage.com/images/gary_ash_m5_sm.jpg[/img=left] Gary Ash
Dartmouth, Mass.
'48 M5
'65 Wagonaire Commander
'63 Wagonaire Standard
web site at http://www.studegarage.com

Jeff_H
04-03-2007, 10:45 PM
I can't add a whole lot to what everyone else has said. Here is my 18' with dove/beaver tail. I got this a couple weeks before the Spokane meet. These pix were taken before/during the epic roadtrip. The only "complaint" I have is the tires on it are sorta skinny compared to a different brand trailer I looked at and did not get since they were out of stock and would not get any more in before I needed it. Its also a PJ trailer like Dick's but I noticed when I looked at his at Omaha last year its a little bit different in details. The one picture shows the door on my '53 clears the fenders. I probably could have gotten by with a 16' one but I've also got a '65 ford galaxie that I may want to haul with it. The electric brakes worked fine going through the mountains in MT, WA, and ID.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/LoadingupforSpokane8-05small.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/EnroutetoSpokane28-05small.jpg


Jeff in ND
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t5/ee-engineer/53byalaketiny.jpg
'53 Champion Hardtop

avantilover
04-04-2007, 05:06 AM
Isn't it possible to have the storage area for the ramps constructed or lined so they won't rattle???

John Clements
Avantilover, your South Australian Studebaker lover!!!
Lockleys South Australia

Mr Mike
04-04-2007, 07:59 AM
Most of the good points have been discussed here with the exception of tires. Some come with el cheapo bias ply or nylon. Radials will ride better and last longer. A tip from an old truck driver - if the trailer has sat for more than a couple of days, CHECK THE TIRE PRESSURES BEFORE USING IT! Even empty, the tires will start to cup very quickly.
Mr Mike

morphis
04-05-2007, 07:22 AM
I have towed with several types and sizes w/o brakes & had some scary moments. Got my present hauler off ebay, new for 1800. It is a 24 foot dual axle with brakes on one, wood deck. Now the first four feet is solid & then the platform becomes a tilt bed. It is the best and easiest way to load anything , tilt it to the ground and slide your stuff on. No lifting or ramps . I have loaded cars by driving on & off and the tilt slowly adjusts, no sudden bang. Be sure to get the widest as I had to use a floor jack to lift the front of my prowler over the fenders of my old trailer and also had the rockers dented on my kaiser & thats when I decided to go trailer hunting. Do not pay list, make a offer.

Guido
04-05-2007, 12:26 PM
Another safety tip - if on anything but flat ground be sure that you have the wheels of the trailer and the FRONT wheels of the tow vehicle chocked. I once was loading a small crawler loader on a trailer and as I pulled onto the deck the weight of the machine lifted the rear of the truck off the ground and down the hill we started.

Luckily I was able to reverse direction and avoid a calamity.

http://thumb14.webshots.net/t/53/453/1/21/36/2964121360097493054pVJTFL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/57/757/2/88/4/2023288040097493054SEKowB_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/18/19/8/37/21/2050837210097493054IYBJJL_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/559/1/43/57/2876143570097493054jKVhDw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/22/22/0/2/68/2589002680097493054ftBuBw_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/8/30/30/2075830300097493054aSSlFv_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/59/459/2/23/86/2067223860097493054YoeGMx_th.jpghttp://thumb14.webshots.net/t/28/28/5/18/33/2537518330097493054OgEKcN_th.jpg
Guido Salvage - "Where rust is beautiful"

Studebaker horse drawn buggy; 1946 M-16 fire truck; 1948 M-16 grain truck; 1949 2R16A grain truck; 1949 2R17A fire truck; 1950 2R5 pickup; 1952 2R17A grain truck; 1952 Packard 200 4 door; 1955 E-38 grain truck; 1957 3E-40 flatbed; 1961 6E-28 grain truck; 1962 7E-13D 4x4 rack truck; 1962 7E-7 Champ pickup; 1962 GT Hawk 4 speed; 1963 8E-28 flatbed; 1964 Avanti R2 4 speed; 1964 Cruiser and various other "treasures".

Hiding and preserving Studebakers in Richmond, Goochland & Louisa, Va.

RONL
04-08-2007, 03:03 PM
1 THING , UNLESS I MISSED IT BEING SAID ALREADY , I'D RECOMMEND A CENTER ACCESS FOR THE OBVIOUS , BUT HAVE A DROP IN FOR OTHER ITEMS YOU MAY WISH TO TRANSPORT , ALSO YES ON THE ALUMINUM RAMPS , YOU CAN STORE THEM IN THE ACCESS IF NECC , AVOID ANY BRAKE SYSTEMS NAMED M***CANT SAY THE REST , TO MANY PROB W/ PRODUCT LATELY , A WHOLE LOT OF RECALLS , PARTS AVAIL , ETC. BELEIVE ME , YOU CAN GET A SET OF ALUMINUM RAMPS FROM AN OLD CAR HAULER RIG IF YOU HAVE AN INDEPENDENT AROUND , I REALLY LIKE MINE ,THEIR LIGHTWEIGHT

bondobilly
04-21-2007, 09:31 PM
quote:Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp

Here's mine...

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/169/443092332_d42c48d1bf.jpg

I bought it last year after doing my usual "too much" research:D.

PJ Trailers...

http://www.pjtrailers.com/



I just went to their website and entered my zipcode. Three min later I got a dealer name. Went to his website, and his prices for what you have is $5500.00. Maybe it is a East Coast thing, or folks in New England think us Southerners are dumb. :)

Bill

Thomas63R2
04-23-2007, 12:27 AM
Lots of good advice here.

I've looked at the Texas Rollback at a local dealer - amazingly clever. Light too if you go all aluminum.

Today at the swap meet I spotted a really well thought out open car trailer with air ride suspension and four corner jacks to allow super easy drop down loading and unloading even when not hooked up to your tow vehicle. Letting the air out dropped the load height by 4 or 5 inches. Their all aluminum version only weighed 1,300 lbs, their steel/aluminum weighed 1,700 lbs. No website for this small company out of Arizona, Trailer-lite or something like that was the name.

Thomas

New Stude guy! Long time hot rodder
'63 Avanti R2 4 speed with interesting plans

Roscomacaw
04-23-2007, 02:38 AM
Here ya go Bill!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PJ-Bumper-Pull-utility-car-hauler_W0QQitemZ140107425604QQihZ004QQcategoryZ80769QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Roscomacaw
04-23-2007, 02:46 AM
Here's another, Bill!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/new-2006-18ft-steel-floor-car-hauler-utility-trailer_W0QQitemZ120110366043QQihZ002QQcategoryZ80769QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

Studenut
04-24-2007, 08:28 PM
I was going to reply to this much earlier but landed in the hospital for most of 2 weeks.
I have owned a P-J trailer for about 3 years now and am satisfied that it is well built. I paid $100 extra at the time to get 4 wheel electric brakes, but I understand they are required by law now. The total for an 18' trailer was about $2000 in Wisconsin. A couple of comments:
1. We have pulled travel trailers for years, so my truck was already setup with electric connections for the usual lights AND electric brakes, with adjustable controller. Don't get surge brakes!
2. I am glad I got the continuous floor rather than the style with just ramps for the wheels. I have used it several times to bring home items for the lumber yard that are too long to haul in a pickup, such as a garage door or 16' decking strips.
3. My only disappointment is that the ramps store on the side, so one has to actually lift them from that storage area to the back end. As I get older than I am already I can see a time coming when I would not be able to lift that much weight. The ramps that store at the back end and then just slide out are, I think, much better.

Jerry Buck
Racine, Wisconsin
'53 Champion Coupe - C (owned since 1956)
'61 Lark VI Convertible

bondobilly
04-24-2007, 08:46 PM
quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

Here ya go Bill!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PJ-Bumper-Pull-utility-car-hauler_W0QQitemZ140107425604QQihZ004QQcategoryZ80769QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


The price was right, but to drive to SD and back would bring it up to........... you guessed it $$$$$$$$$$$$. Not counting time. :) :)

BG

ST2DE5
04-25-2007, 12:29 PM
My question is what is so bad about surge brakes? If you have a truck that will handle it. I have had 3 axle stock trailers behind mine and had no problems.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s197/wagon56/MoparMeet2.jpg
7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
As soon as you find a product you like they will stop making it.

Dick Steinkamp
04-25-2007, 03:20 PM
quote:Originally posted by ST2DE5

My question is what is so bad about surge brakes?

1. Only nine states allow them: Colorado, Connecticut, Georgia, Iowa, Maryland, Minnesota, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, and Texas.

2. They do not comply with Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulations

3. You can't apply them from the cab (ever have a trailer start swaying on you?)

4. They apply when you don't want them to (going down a hill and backing up)

5. Can't be quickly adjusted for loads and conditions like electric brakes.


Hey, there are folks that have pulled big trailers with NO brakes and had no problems. That doesn't mean it was safe for them and others on the same roads.

http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

bondobilly
04-25-2007, 03:54 PM
An UPDATE

Okay, here goes. I got a price on the PJ 18ft trailer. Dual axle electric brakes, tilt down off loading $3200, with ramps $2995.

Here is my conclusion. The extra $900 over what everyone is saying is normal, is the cost of delivery to the East Coast. It is that simple. Bargins can be had if you have the time to drive half way across the US. The PJ at $2300 is fair, looks excellent, and looks desirble, but the premium is in the cost of obtaining it. I guestimate that if I drove to wherever they are made I could get a good deal. But, the cost and time to go to the plant evens out the price.

On another post Jeff R. (Deepnhock) posted about getting the Prodigy brake kit. He said it was a good deal at $149.00. The guy near me sells it for $110, plus in speaking with the dealer, he stated that if I kept it for two years and used it a lot, I could re-sell it for about 2/3 of what I paid new......Yeah I know..........get that in writing.

But we are getting closer :)

BG

Dick Steinkamp
04-25-2007, 06:09 PM
PJ makes both a 6" channel and a 5" channel 18 footer. Make sure they are quoting the 5" channel. It is more than enough.

The 5" channel PJ's are made in Mexico (I know...good news for some bad news for others). Mine was $2300 delivered in Bellingham, WA. I believe that is probably the same distance from the factory as New York. If you want that trailer, shop around. I'll bet you can do better than $3000.

You can't go wrong with the Prodigy brake controller. I love mine. It is really state of the art. It determines how fast the tow vehicle is decelerating and applies the trailer brakes accordingly.

http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

bondobilly
04-27-2007, 08:38 PM
quote:[ Mine was $2300 delivered in Bellingham, WA. I believe that is probably the same distance from the factory as New York. If you want that trailer, shop around. I'll bet you can do better than $3000.

Who delivered it? Not kidding. I went to their site, and the only dealer is 101 miles away from me.

BG

bondobilly
04-27-2007, 08:47 PM
Here is the list I got from PJ

Westview Tractors
Canterbury, CT
(860) 546-6277 (phone)
(860) 546-6563 (fax)
Located approximately 101 mi from 10595.

The Trailer Connection
Richmondville, NY
(518) 294-8800 (phone)
(518) 294-8800 (fax)
Located approximately 114 mi from 10595.

Four Acres Trailer Sales, Inc.
Wilmington, DE
(302) 994-1500 (phone)
(302) 994-1588 (fax)
Located approximately 135 mi from 10595.

The first fellow Westview, I spoke with quoted the $2995 and $3200
I cannot figure it, unless they delivered to you from their Canadian outlet.

BG

Dick Steinkamp
04-27-2007, 09:51 PM
Bill,
I pulled my receipt. Mine is a model PJ 518 DZ-BB and it was $2363.74.

BTW, great article in this month's TW on the Hawk from Hell [^]

http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg

bondobilly
04-28-2007, 06:36 PM
More info.....getting interesting.

Got a call from the PJ guy. The best he could do on your trailer is $2850. But, he will deliver. I stated the price you paid, and he asked where you were. I said Bellingham Wa. He was upfront, he said that yours might have come from Canada.

Most of the extra cost is for transportation.

What do you do with the trailer when not in use? Garage, cover?

BG

Dick Steinkamp
04-28-2007, 08:11 PM
quote:Originally posted by bondobilly

More info.....getting interesting.

Got a call from the PJ guy. The best he could do on your trailer is $2850. But, he will deliver. I stated the price you paid, and he asked where you were. I said Bellingham Wa. He was upfront, he said that yours might have come from Canada.

Most of the extra cost is for transportation.

What do you do with the trailer when not in use? Garage, cover?

BG


Mine was made in Mexico.

I keep mine in a garage...but I think I might be one of the few that does this. Most sit outside when not used.



http://thenobot.org/images/s2d/s2d_01.jpg