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View Full Version : Turn signal switch and brake light problems



studeclunker
03-31-2007, 07:36 PM
I've found that Ed's brake lights are not working properly. It seems that there's something wrong in the turn signal switch. Is this the same switch in the '61 Lark or is it from the trucks? The switch doesn't cancel anymore and probably needs replacement. I'm going to tear down the steering collumn now that Bess is going along and then I'll see what the problems are. I also have to work on the brakes etc...

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Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

Roscomacaw
03-31-2007, 07:50 PM
It COULD BE the same switch OR NOT. The 61 Trucks used two different types. One type IS the same as 61 and later Larks. The other style was used in some '60 Larks.
If it's quit cancelling, it's probably the later type with the plastic cam. They get brittle with age (like me) and break. The switch will still function but it won't self cancel anymore.[}:)]

Miscreant adrift in
the BerStuda Triangle
http://images.andale.com/f2/115/106/906179/2006/12/7/truckonhill3.jpg

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe

rockne10
03-31-2007, 10:16 PM
The canceller also centers the switch and, if it doesn't get centered you may experience one or the other brake light not working, but not usually both.

StudeRich
03-31-2007, 10:45 PM
Ron; if it actually does NOT flash with switch on, and lever to Left or right turn position AND no Stop Lights, my guess is no power at the insulator board where your flashing unit & turn and stop fuses are.
Check for a loose power wire or loose or blown fuses under the dash.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

studeclunker
04-01-2007, 01:35 AM
Ed's a '62. Yes the self-cancel no longer works. and it is the centering thing that's causing the problem. If I get it centred, the brake lights work. But it won't stay centred. So, maybe if Stude. Int. has this plastic part, I can fix the problem?

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/december%2006/HPIM0234.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/56%20Parkview%20Wagon/56wagonleftfrontclipped-1.jpg
Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

N8N
04-01-2007, 08:36 AM
sounds like maybe a spring in there is busted... best bet is to pull it out of the column and play with it on the bench and see if it can be repaired or if it's just time for replacement. It's not that hard to get out although running the wires when replacing it is a little tricky.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

studeclunker
04-01-2007, 12:20 PM
quote:It's not that hard to get out although running the wires when replacing it is a little tricky.



Not to mention, getting all the wires in the right plugs...[:o)];)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/december%2006/HPIM0234.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b18/Studeclunker/56%20Parkview%20Wagon/56wagonleftfrontclipped-1.jpg
Home of the famous Mr. Ed!
Lotsa Larks!
K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Studebaker!
Ron Smith
Where the heck is Lewiston, CA?

rockne10
04-02-2007, 10:27 PM
If the problem is the canceller, and if it's available, I believe it can be replaced without messing with any of the wires. I could be wrong. I've done a couple of them but it was years ago.

PlainBrownR2
04-03-2007, 02:26 AM
Remembering back to my Lark column, if it is constructed in the same matter, there are two bolts and nuts that keep the column collar attached to the top of the column. The bolts are square and stay in a pair of notches in the top of the wheel. If those are loose it will keep the column and wheel all out of alignment(it will move when the wheel is turned), as well as keep the collar and turn signal from staying centered. Also, the connections, if there is a slight short the signal will be slow and may not cancel like it should.


1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
1950 Studebaker 2R5 with 170 turbocharged
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