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View Full Version : 51 Champ Engine Front Mount Bolt Touque Spec.



Jerry Johnson
08-10-2006, 07:02 PM
I have been unable to find the torque spec for the 3/8-24 nuts which hold the front motor mounts on the engine. They are held on with 3/8-16 studs which go into the engine and then with 3/8-24 nuts and locking nuts to hold the brackets. I set them to 35 ft. lbs. I am also wondering about the torque spec for the four bolts which hold the rear motor mount in place. The two small ones which attach the mount to the frame and the two large ones which hold the bell housing to the mount. Any help would be appreciated.

Regards,
Jerry Johnson

Dwain G.
08-11-2006, 02:53 PM
So-called non-critical fasteners like these don't generally have a torque value shown in the repair manual. There is a formula for figuring this out, but it's much easier to simply use a chart that lists the standard torque values of various grade fasteners. This one illustrates the bolt-head markings also:
http://www.armstrongtools.com/reference/storque.jsp

http://home.comcast.net/~jdwain/9GQ2.jpg
Dwain G.

N8N
08-11-2006, 03:29 PM
just to add to what Dwain said, most fasteners on a Stude were Grade 5 from the factory; the only exception I can think of off the top of my head would be the bellcrank pinch bolt which is Grade 8. Even the head bolts appear to be standard Grade 5 cap screws! (makes life easy, it does...)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Jerry Johnson
08-12-2006, 07:07 PM
Nate and Dwain

Thanks for the help. I had done some searching on Google for torque specification for standard fasteners and used them as a guide. However, I was unable to identify the grade bolts until I printed out the chart Dwain sent me to. I kind of expected that the motor mount stuff was non-critical and back when I was a kid I would have just pull them until they felt tight enough. However, in my old age (63) I am getting more anneal and back then I didnít have a torque wrench either. I set the Ĺ-13 bolts which hold the back mount to the bell housing to 65 ft lbs yesterday when I put the engine back in the rolling chassis. According to the chart, that might be a little light, but it had lock washers so I expect it will be ok. Again, thanks for the help.

Jerry

Roscomacaw
08-12-2006, 08:22 PM
I know a young fella that wrenches on his Stude and when he tightens something - it's tight - or broke.[V] He goes by the notion that if you can still force the wrench to move, it's not tight. Of course, he seems a bit surprized when the bolt shears.[:0]
I watched him install an alternator one time and he managed to snap the 5/16ths bolt that secures the adustment arm. This just after I warned him it could happen with his idea of "tight".[8]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Blue 15G
08-13-2006, 11:38 AM
"Tighten bolt until it breaks, then back off 1/8" turn." This always worked for me! [:0]:(