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imitiday
07-31-2006, 12:01 PM
I have a spare set of R2 heads for my [A] valves-springs-rocker arms
& push rods.Is it best,to have these done with R3 valves & other
mods.necessary. Or would I be better off buying a set thats already
built? I am performance oriented in this regard.What would be the
cost involved in either case? How do I get best bang?

Thanks, Johnr2

Mike Van Veghten
07-31-2006, 12:16 PM
Many people are doing this.

To "just" install larger valves is not good spending of your money. To gain the most from the large valve modification...at "least" a good pocket porting with some carefull chamber work to remove all the walls.

Depending on who does the work in no special order -
1. Guide work, new or fix old. Shorten intake guide.
2. Surface deck.
3. Pocket port (minimum) both intake and exhaust.
4. Chamber work.
5. Mag for cracks.
6. Open seats for bigger valves.
7. New valves, hone stem, grind seat, two angles on intake.
8. Grind seats in heads, three angles.
9. Check new springs, shim as required.
10. New stem seals.
11. Clean all parts.

About $1050.00, your heads.

Mike

PackardV8
07-31-2006, 12:52 PM
Phil at Fairborn Studebaker has heads with R3 valves and mild porting for $700. Unless you can do the work yourself, his is the most convenient deal.

Mike's deal above has a lot of Stude experience in it. He will do you right.

To really get really racy, figure a minimum of $1k additional for a professionally ported set and a minimum of $2k for best science.

Bit of a commercial here for those on a budget:
the shop I use will take your heads, valves, springs, guides and seals you furnish and install and clearance hard seats, guides, seals, pocket port, surface all three sides for $300. They will look like jewelry when you get them back. Naturally, shipping is at cost. E-mail me off-line if you are interested. Jack Vines, PackardV8@comcast.net


PackardV8

imitiday
07-31-2006, 04:24 PM
quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

Many people are doing this.

To "just" install larger valves is not good spending of your money. To gain the most from the large valve modification...at "least" a good pocket porting with some carefull chamber work to remove all the walls.

Depending on who does the work in no special order -
1. Guide work, new or fix old. Shorten intake guide.
2. Surface deck.
3. Pocket port (minimum) both intake and exhaust.
4. Chamber work.
5. Mag for cracks.
6. Open seats for bigger valves.
7. New valves, hone stem, grind seat, two angles on intake.
8. Grind seats in heads, three angles.
9. Check new springs, shim as required.
10. New stem seals.
11. Clean all parts.

About $1050.00, your heads.

Mike

imitiday
07-31-2006, 04:27 PM
thanks mike, i will check the local shops,
see what they do.

imitiday
07-31-2006, 04:36 PM
quote:Originally posted by PackardV8

Phil at Fairborn Studebaker has heads with R3 valves and mild porting for $700. Unless you can do the work yourself, his is the most convenient deal.

Mike's deal above has a lot of Stude experience in it. He will do you right.

To really get really racy, figure a minimum of $1k additional for a professionally ported set and a minimum of $2k for best science.

Bit of a commercial here for those on a budget:
the shop I use will take your heads, valves, springs, guides and seals you furnish and install and clearance hard seats, guides, seals, pocket port, surface all three sides for $300. They will look like jewelry when you get them back. Naturally, shipping is at cost. E-mail me off-line if you are interested. Jack Vines, PackardV8@comcast.net

thanks jack.no way i can do the head job,but would like to
know more about the one/or 2k option. johnr2
PackardV8

PackardV8
08-01-2006, 12:29 PM
Your car, your project. From those who have been there, the hassle of trying to get across to local shops what you want, trying to round up the parts, may be more than it will cost to go to those who know how to do it right the first time. Just be prepared for some flat refusals and some high estimates.

FWIW, I have to work closely and sweet-talk my head guy to get him to continue to do my Studebaker and Packard work. He grouses about having to order parts from Fairborn, having change all his setups, just to do one pair. "I have UPS drop off a box of SBC parts once a week and everything is the same. I get twice the production rate because I don't have to change anything."

thnx, jv.



PackardV8

Mike Van Veghten
08-01-2006, 03:24 PM
Packard...agreed.

I'm lucky, the shop I use likes doing oddball stuff. He does everything from Super Stock (NHRA) engines to blown hemi's...to...Packards.
He'll do work on just about anything with a crank shaft. In the 25+ years I've known him...I've only found one mistake. And yes I do check everything I have tools to check.

It's great to have a shop that's not afraid of new OR "old" stuff!
And yea...he's working on my 299 right now, and he has called about prices. "I can get "xxx" for this money, how much can you get it for?".

Mike

imitiday
08-03-2006, 01:26 PM
hey guys,i have been talking to several machine shops
in my area regarding the r2 heads.prices vary from $600-$1600
for the work.i see where lional stone has r3 alum heads for $2200
that dyno@ 375 hp.are these heads that much better than fairborn's
for $700? thanks johnr2

sbca96
08-03-2006, 03:49 PM
There are extended valves for NASCAR that are 1/4 inch longer then the
stock Chevy valves, and dont require cutting the stands or guides.

They were 2.02 turned down to 1.92 or 1.94 from Ferrea.

http://www.ferrea.com/

Tom

imitiday
08-03-2006, 04:06 PM
thanks tom,however your way over my head
on that one. johnr2

sbca96
08-03-2006, 05:19 PM
John,

The best thing you can do, is ask questions, read responses, and then
do LOTS of RESEARCH! Dont go by any one persons direction. Two engines
built identically will give different results. Read Total Performance
back issues and the books. Turn your brain into a sponge. The MORE
you know, the better decision you can make, and the happier you will
be with the end product.

Tom

imitiday
08-04-2006, 12:23 PM
thanks for the excellent advice Tom.I'm waiting on info
from fairborns on a total engine rebuild & head work.
I was impressed with the steering wheel& rims on an Avanti
that I recently saw. Is this your's? If not,do you know who doe's?
thanks johnr2

sbca96
08-04-2006, 02:55 PM
quote:Originally posted by imitidayI was impressed with the steering wheel& rims on an Avanti that I recently saw. Is this your's?

If you mean this one, yes its mine .. or you might mean Karls?

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/Gtechtest/Gtechtest10.JPG

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/Gtechtest/Gtech_Testing_day2_008a.jpg

http://hometown.aol.com/sbca96/images/Gtechtest/Gtech_Testing_day2_006a.jpg

Tom

JDP
08-04-2006, 03:04 PM
The aluminum heads will require another $1000 or so for machine work to fit. Not to knock the repro alumium stuff, but none of it is a "bolt on". Let Nimish build you a set of his heads that will out flow the R3 jobs.

http://stude.com/sig.jpg
Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
Studebaker News Group
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Avanti R2/4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT(parts car)
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
56 Power Hawk/4 speed/289
52 Starliner
51 Commander

N8N
08-04-2006, 03:22 PM
Tom,

i'm curious about the valves you mention; will the Chevy keepers mate to the Stude valve spring retainers? Or do you just use Chevy valve springs and machine the spring seats in the Stude heads? Will have to compare prices and do some thinkin'

nate

(considering some upgraded heads as a future project... not now but maybe someday)

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

imitiday
08-04-2006, 04:22 PM
quote:Originally posted by JDP

The aluminum heads will require another $1000 or so for machine work to fit. Not to knock the repro alumium stuff, but none of it is a "bolt on". Let Nimish build you a set of his heads that will out flow the R3 jobs.
Who is;Nimish?
http://stude.com/sig.jpg
Studebaker On The Net
http://stude.com
Studebaker News Group
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.studebaker
Arnold Md.
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1/AC
63 Avanti R2/4 speed
62 Lark 2 door
62 GT(parts car)
60 Lark convert
60 Hawk
56 Power Hawk/4 speed/289
52 Starliner
51 Commander

N8N
08-04-2006, 06:57 PM
Nimesh Solanki, he posts to alt.autos.studebaker occasionally.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

sbca96
08-04-2006, 09:00 PM
quote:Originally posted by N8N
i'm curious about the valves you mention; will the Chevy keepers mate to the Stude valve spring retainers? Or do you just use Chevy valve springs and machine the spring seats in the Stude heads?

Nate,

Its been YEARS since this work was done, and quite frankly my best
answer is "I dont know". To expand on that, what I do remember is the
Studebaker springs were reused, so I would assume the keepers and the
retainers were also. It was my understanding that the only thing he
had to do was turn the head of the valve down from 2.02. I believe
the largest intake you can use with the stock size exhaust is 1.94. It
was then ported as per the Total Performance publications, and some
artistic interpetation on the porters part. The combustion chambers
were all matched, and I used flat top hyperutechnic pistons. The end
result was quite a joy to drive. The engine hasnt run for 6 years, I
pulled it from the wrecked 60 Hawk to transfer the upperend to the R1.
I used a 276 duration R3 cam, with a 600 cfm Edelbrock and an HEI. It
was backed up by a TH700-R4 trans, and a 3:31 Dana twin traction. It
didnt have any trouble barking second gear authoritively on a regular
1-2 shift. Taking off I could smoke the rears into 3rd, in a cloud of
smoke. Never got a dyno, or a time slip. I had it up to 125 mph, it
felt like it had a lot left. Fun car, it is missed.

Tom

PackardV8
08-04-2006, 11:04 PM
Three thoughts:

1. JDP, last I heard, Nimesh was not happy with the Stude community in general and wasn't taking on any more Stude head work. Do you know for sure he will accept heads for porting just now?

2. sbca96 - YEARS was a while back - check your memory or notes - why cut down 2.02" SBC valves when 1.94" is the next stock SBC size down and readily available for less money than 2.02"? Stude springs cannot be used with the SBC valve conversion. They are too long. SBC valves, springs, retainers and keepers are naturally used there.

3. imitiday - contact me off-list. was in the process of putting together a very strong R1+ engine for a customer/friend and he stiffed me. (Actually up and died - can't get much stiffer than that.) decide how fast you want to go and let's talk.

PackardV8

sbca96
08-05-2006, 11:03 PM
quote:Originally posted by PackardV8
2. sbca96 - YEARS was a while back - check your memory or notes - why cut down 2.02" SBC valves when 1.94" is the next stock SBC size down and readily available for less money than 2.02"? Stude springs cannot be used with the SBC valve conversion. They are too long. SBC valves, springs, retainers and keepers are naturally used there.

Packard buddy ... read my first post on this thread, they are EXTENDED
length valves, 1/4" longer then stock Chevy, and exactly the same as
the stock Stude length. The reason to use 2.02, is that in the longer
length, they didnt offer anything smaller. The only catch, would be
if they do not offer them any more. The were stainless steel, and had
the narrowed neck for increased flow.[8D]

Tom

PackardV8
08-06-2006, 05:08 PM
sorry i missed the detail about there being NLA valve involved

PackardV8

sbca96
08-07-2006, 03:26 AM
NLA?

Tom

StudeRich
08-07-2006, 04:09 AM
Tom; NLA=Parts guy talk for: "NO LONGER AVAILABLE" !! :D


quote:Originally posted by sbca96

NLA?

Tom


StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

sbca96
08-07-2006, 06:14 AM
Oh .. well I didnt say they were not available, I said that the only
catch would BE if they werent. I have no reason to buy another set,
but I posted the contact info if someone else wants to check it out.

Tom