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Walt Zander
07-31-2006, 09:32 AM
Not wishing to be redundant, I did a search for direction or tips on replacing the OD housing rear oil seal. This ole coot was not sucessful in finding such in previous postings. My Stude Shop Manual does not cover my query about removing the nut holding the UJ flange, which will allow me to replace the seal. With trans. on the bench, what is the correct procedure for holding back the flange while removing the 1 & 1/16" nut. Fear of damage or distortion to the U.J. flange is my concern. Suspect it is a simple solution, but at present it just eludes me. This curmudgeon appreciates any consideration, thanks.


'49 Champion Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline
Fond du Lac,Wisconsin

rockne10
07-31-2006, 09:36 AM
Have you tried an impact wrench?

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/rockne10/51x2.jpg
previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

Walt Zander
07-31-2006, 10:00 AM
Brad. Impact wrench at the ready, however holding back on the
U.J. flange without damage to same is my concern. My 18" (ugh)
crescent wrench does fit over the flange yoke, but I am not comfortable with this. If appears I am operating in paranoia.....
yep.:D


'49 Champion Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline
Fond du Lac,Wisconsin

ROADRACELARK
07-31-2006, 10:50 AM
Walt,
If you grab the yoke right square on the flange, I doubt you would ever incur any damage to the cast iron yoke. I've used a VERY large pipe wrench without any problem. You have to remember, it's been a long time since that nut has been removed. OBTW, it wouldn't hurt to squirt a little penetrant around it and lit it soak.;) Hope this helps.
Dan Miller

Road Racers turn left AND right.

Walt Zander
07-31-2006, 11:05 AM
Armed with my 24" Aluminum "Rigid" brand pipe wrench, and a sense of "can do", I am enthused. My T96 is about to get a remedy.
Shall give a follow up. Thanks Dan.[^]

'49 Champion Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline
Fond du Lac,Wisconsin

Walt Zander
07-31-2006, 12:24 PM
Success --with no ill effects to the yoke casting.
I profited from good advice. Thank you.

'49 Champion Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline
Fond du Lac,Wisconsin

ROADRACELARK
07-31-2006, 02:58 PM
Walt,
Glad it worked out for you. As the shop manual shows the "special tool"to hold the yoke, most of the time shops did not have access to these tools as did the dealerships, therefore the mechanic was forced to be creative....speaking from experience...BTDT;) Don't forget, you have a unlimited amount of resources here at the keyboard...take advantage of it when you need to. I'm sure I speak for all in "forum land".
Dan Miller:)

Road Racers turn left AND right.

Walt Zander
07-31-2006, 06:01 PM
Over the years, I have thought of myself as being somewhat innovative when it came to improvising for a particular task, in relation to wrench spinning or whatever, i.e. special tools. As I have been a member of SDC for less than a year I have enjoyed a wealth of genuine help and assistance from many on the forums. I cannot expound enough as to the satisfaction this geezer has gathered from the multiples of help that have been offered. At an early age I was taught that it is no disgrace to admit a lack of knowledge when the need for it becomes apparent. It took fifty some years to find my childhood dream and now the journey to have it road worthy is a pleasure due to the likes of SDC members. Although there may be some rudimentary queries posted by yours truly, heretofore they have been answered without qualm.
That said, it obvious the utmost concern and care will be employed when rehabbing my vision. As you suggested Dan, I will avail myself to the resources here on SDC forums. Thanks to all for past aids.

:)


'49 Champion Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline
Fond du Lac,Wisconsin

Roscomacaw
08-01-2006, 12:25 PM
Yeah, had I not been gone most of yesterday, I would'a given the same advice as Dan.;) I've done this a couple of times and I've employed a big-azz pipe wrench as well. If the tranny's IN the car, brace the wrench handle against the nearby frame rail or exhaust pipe or whatever. If the tranny's OUT of the car, let the handle of the wrench lay against the ground and go after the nut with a BIG ratchet and socket.[}:)] I'm lazy - I like to let whatever inanimate thing is handy rather than straining one arm against the other.[B)]
But you got thru it, Walt. That's what counts!:D

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

Walt Zander
08-02-2006, 02:58 PM
Ah yes - the inaminate object. The beauty of which when the blue words are cast in its direction, there is no retort. Much like the sound of one hand clapping.:D
Thanks Bob

'49 Champion Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline
Fond du Lac,Wisconsin

N8N
08-02-2006, 04:39 PM
I've replaced several rear axle pinion seals (same kind of thing) and rather than fight with hand tools I go straight for the impact wrench. With a good strong impact wrench you can spin that nut off simply by holding the yoke with your hand (use a shop ragto hold it, or wear a leather glove though! kinda smarts if you don't...)

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Walt Zander
08-02-2006, 05:14 PM
Thanks Nate.
I will use that method when proceeding to the pinion seal.
Contrary to some of my school teachers..(RIP) I do pay attention.;)

'49 Champion Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline
Fond du Lac,Wisconsin

ROADRACELARK
08-02-2006, 06:07 PM
Walt,
When you get to the point of reassembly, clean the end of the pinion shaft where it's necked down with brake cleaner, or the like, and before you install the flat washer, smear a good coating of RTV sealant on the back side of it as well as on the shaft where the washer and nut meet. Let'er dry overnite. By doing this, you won't have the diff lube wick up the splined shaft and past the washer & nut to become your next leak:(. OBTY, draw out some of the diff lube before you start, then add it back the next day...gives that RTV time to really set up. Hope this helps.:)
Dan

Road Racers turn left AND right.

rockne10
08-02-2006, 09:12 PM
I remember an episode of "Mr. Wizard" fifty years ago where he laid a yardstick projecting halfway off a table and laid a single layer of newspaper on the part that was on the table; gave it a whack and snapped that sucker in two. That's what the impact wrench does, with little resistance, to the yoke nut. I don't remember my physics lessons. Is that kinetic? or what?

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
33 Rockne 10
51 Commander Starlight
53 Commander Starlight
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g233/rockne10/51x2.jpg
previously: 63 Cruiser, 62 Regal VI, 60 VI convertible, 50 LandCruiser

Walt Zander
08-02-2006, 10:06 PM
Thanks again Dan.
That sounds like a more than sensible tip..er tips.
I did wonder about the wicking possibility.

Brad.
Funny but I do recall seeing that feat, by who[?][?]
Kinetic? Well a body at rest-- nope won't go there.[8]
Heck I had difficulty with Quantum Physics.[:p]
Will have gloved hand when I do the rear pinion. Thanks.

'49 Champion Starlight Coupe
1936 Miller Replica/ Stude driveline
Fond du Lac,Wisconsin