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Jerry Johnson
07-21-2006, 05:15 PM
Can anyone tell me how to test fuel gage sending unit[?] I expect you would check the resistance by using a VOM with the - on the base of the sending unit and the + lead attached to the screw which normally hold the wire going to the gage. However I have no ideas what range to use or what resistance I should be expecting. The unit is out of the tank. The cork is half missing on the end of the lever, can this item be purchased[?] The gasket, screws and washers are missing. Anyone know where I might get the gasket[?] The screws seem to be something I can just buy, but the parts book indicates the washers are special. Any explaination about what is special about the washers or a source to purchase them would also be helpful.

Thanks
Jerry Johnsohn

Regards,
Jerry Johnson

DilloCrafter
07-21-2006, 08:17 PM
The range is 0-100 ohms on those 6v sending units, but I can't remember which it is at empty and which at full. The later, 12v sending units reversed the low and high resistance, whose values are approx 30-240 ohms.

http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Current_Avacar.gif[/img=left] - DilloCrafter

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
[i]The Red-Headed Amazon
Deep in the heart of Texas

ROADRACELARK
07-21-2006, 10:52 PM
Studebaker Inetrnational has the gaskets. I don't remember the exact size of the screws, but I think they were fine thread and the washers are copper for sealing purposes. They should be available at your local hardware store. It's best to assemble this with no gasket sealer. Wouldn't hurt to use the appropriate size "star" type lock washer also. Hope this helps.:)
Dan

Road Racers turn left AND right.

Jerry Johnson
07-22-2006, 07:03 PM
RoadRaceLark and Dillocrafter, thanks for the help. Dan, the book says #10x5/8 on the screws but does not say if they are 32 or 28 tpi. However just trying a 10-32 will most likely answer that question. Thanks for an answer on the washers and the tip on the star washers, that seems like a good idea and I have plenty of them.

I was also wondering if the testing method I talked about was correct.[?]

Regards,
Jerry Johnson

ROADRACELARK
07-22-2006, 08:47 PM
Jerry,
Although it sounds correct, I'm not sure. Check in the shop manual, but I'm not sure if it even gives a test procedure. I hope some others who have experienced this problem will chime in. Good luck.:)
Dan

Road Racers turn left AND right.

Jerry Johnson
07-23-2006, 01:32 PM
Thanks Dan:D Some times the obvious escapes me, so after your suggestion, I went to the manual. It has extensive info on testing the dash gage, but has little infomation on the actual sending unit, so am mostly back where I started. However I did uncover the fact that the gage will read Full when the sending wire is grounded, so when the sending unit is at the full up position, I should see nearly 0 resistance on the VOM, that helps some.

Regards,
Jerry

Michidan
07-24-2006, 01:49 PM
How similar are the 12V (55 and up) sending units to a 1952? Does it exactly fit in the same hole?
Are the tank depths close? I am thinking I could bend the arm a bit to use one of these rather than adapt the 6V unit I have.

Just happen to be working on gas tank and fuel line now.

Dan
52 hardtop

DilloCrafter
07-24-2006, 05:02 PM
quote:Originally posted by Michidan

How similar are the 12V (55 and up) sending units to a 1952? Does it exactly fit in the same hole?
Are the tank depths close? I am thinking I could bend the arm a bit to use one of these rather than adapt the 6V unit I have.

Just happen to be working on gas tank and fuel line now.

Dan
52 hardtop

Dan, if it's the same way with the cars as it is with the trucks, then you should not put a later 12v sending unit in your car, UNLESS you also convert the car to 12v (I didn't read closely enough to see if already did that) AND you will need to use a gauge designed for 12v (i.e., to read those entirely different resistances that I talked about). Were there any gauges used in 1956 or later cars (12v) that look like the one in your 1952? I don't know, but lucky for me, the 1956 trucks had the same looking gauges as the 1955's.

Oh, and for the trucks, at least, the sending units did look enough alike to fit in the same hole, with the same tank depth (although I saved $$ by getting an aftermarket Stewart Warner 12v sending unit for my truck). If you go with a 12v conversion, you can do a default "all words" search of this forum site for "Stewart Warner sending unit" and you'll see a photo and a link to Summit Racing where I bought mine.

http://rocketdillo.com/studebaker/misc/images/Current_Avacar.gif[/img=left] - DilloCrafter

1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
[i]The Red-Headed Amazon
Deep in the heart of Texas

Michidan
07-24-2006, 05:49 PM
Thanks Dillo.
I left some of the details out just to be brief. Yea the car will be 12V. It's actually 0V now...has not run for 20+ years. All the original wiring got tossed in the can years ago. So dry it would snap like spaghetti.

I'll soon do a painless wiring kit or other such. Not sure about the gauge yet. But if the 55 and up sending unit fits I'll get one.

Dan
52 hardtop

chrysleritis
07-26-2006, 03:20 PM
So along these lines, can anyone help me with the 6 V fuel gauge on my 1950 champion? Both the dash gauge and the sender unit were bad on my car. So I bought a new sender unit and a NOS gauge. The gauge and sender seemed to work fine on the bench top, and with the sender installed in the tank, but the gauge sitting on the front seat, but when I installed the dash gauge back in the instrument cluster, it just reads full all the time. For a week, I though I was getting great mileage. But I think it's because the gauge is shorting to the metal instrument panel housing and it perhaps should not be. In which case, I need to intall the gauge in the dash more carefully so it doesn't short, or make up a little cardboard gasket to keep it insulated from ground. Is that right?

ROADRACELARK
07-26-2006, 03:45 PM
You need to make sure the wire going to the sending unit dosen't have any "nekkid" spots or cracks in its insullation. It would need to be the sender wire or the sender terminal on the guage that's being grounded. Look very closely.;) I worked on a GT Hawk Fuel guage some time back with an intermitent guage reading problem. Disconnected sender wire at the sender, grounded it...guage went to full...reinstall, guage intermitent. Installed a "dedicated" ground wire from one of the sender mounting screws directly to a "shiney" spot on the frame...BINGO no more intermitent guage reading. You would think of the three fuel tank mounting bolds at least ONE would make ground.[:0] "Huda'thunk it" Hope this helps.:)
Dan Miller

Road Racers turn left AND right.

starlightchamp
07-26-2006, 04:51 PM
Was the sending unit NOS for a 50 studebaker? If not, it may have been designed for
positive ground cars. When you had it on the seat, it was insulated from the positve chassis
ground. Perhaps reversing the polarity would help, if not, then your insulating the mounting
from chassis ground may work. Better to get a 50 Stude sender.

1950 Champion Starlight
1963 Hawk GT
Santa Barbara
CA