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JimBo
07-16-2006, 11:58 PM
Just bought a 289 full-flow and am looking for HP. The word around town is BB Chev intake valves or R3 valve-train stuff. Can anybody tell me where I can find R3 valves and components? I'm going to have Clay Smith custom grind the cam and the heads will be decked and ported. I know where I can get an aluminun timing gear for the cam, and where I can get R3/R4 fuel pumps, but no valves and springs to be seen. Maybe there's someone here with extra stuff they want to sell? Any help is appreciatted.

Thomas63R2
07-17-2006, 12:39 AM
Here's one source: http://www.studebakervendors.com/lstone.htm

There are others, where are you located? Realistically, how much power do you want? How much budget? Is Clay regrinding your cam, or does he have Stude cams?

Thomas

New Stude guy! Long time hot rodder
'63 Avanti R2 4 speed with interesting plans

Thomas63R2
07-17-2006, 12:41 AM
Oh yeah, you will probably want to check out: http://racingstudebakers.com/stl-web/bulletin/bb/index.php

Thomas

New Stude guy! Long time hot rodder
'63 Avanti R2 4 speed with interesting plans

Dan White
07-17-2006, 08:32 AM
Try Fairborn Studebaker for you needs:

http://www.fairbornstudebaker.com/

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

Mike Van Veghten
07-17-2006, 12:23 PM
Yea...and do yourself a big favor....the Chevy valve thing....stay away from it.

Fairborn, as others have said, has parts for all your needs, valves, gears, valve springs, valve guides, etc., etc.

Bowl, short turn port work, big intake (only, IMO) valve, chamber work...will go a long way to pep-up your power and milage.

Mike

PackardV8
07-17-2006, 01:30 PM
Phil at Fairborn is a great guy and has all the valve train parts you need. Ted Harbit pioneered the R2+ Stude cam re-grind and is of the opinion it is all you need for most applications. Phil has those as well. Nothing wrong with Clay Smith, but check the relative costs.

As Mike and others will tell you, stay away from the Chevy valve conversion. That was only a solution when there were no R3 valves available. Now that R3s are readily available, go with them.

1. Spend the money on the best porting work you can find.
2. Even the best porting won't make a Stude run with the newer aftermarket aluminum heads for the Brand X stuff, so consider a supercharger. The thing Stude does have going for it is basic strength and it loves to be blown.
3. More inches are a good thing. Overboring from .093-.125" will be worth the cost.

PackardV8

casey
07-17-2006, 04:09 PM
I'm one of those people who went with the Chevy valve conversion when the R3 valves weren't available. The guy who did it also did some port work. The 289 in question is in my Hawk. I don't seem to have any problems. But if I ever did, could I get away with putting stock Stude rocker stands back back on the heads with the R3 valves? And I know I would need springs and push rods too.

Roscomacaw
07-17-2006, 04:18 PM
Casey, I believe you could. Not that I have done such, but just thinking it thru, it seems to come up as logical.[:I]

Miscreant at large.

1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President 2-dr
1955 President State
1951 Champion Biz cpe
1963 Daytona project FS

PackardV8
07-17-2006, 05:22 PM
Hi, Casey,

Now you have the modifications for Chevy valves in place and they are working for you and are available in best quality at lowest price, can't think of a good reason to go back to R3 valves. Makes sense to stay where you are. It is only if someone is still stock do we recommend using R3 valves.

thnx, jv.

PackardV8

JimBo
07-18-2006, 12:24 AM
Thanks a ton guys. I see he sells heads with the R3 conversion done for $700, which is awesome. Gold mine for performance Studebaker parts.

JimBo
07-18-2006, 12:31 AM
I posted once before and some of you reccommended literature, could you reccommend that literature again? This time I'll write down the names and Amazon.com it. Thanks again.

Dan White
07-18-2006, 06:59 PM
I have the Chevy valve conversion in my Hawk what is the problem?? Have not had any issues.

Dan White
64 R1 GT
64 R2 GT

Mike Van Veghten
07-18-2006, 07:16 PM
Jimbo....I've reworked a set of those heads.
If you want anywhere near the performance that's capabilbe of being gained, start from scratch. Yes...you'll pay more, but the benifets WILL be worth it.
Again, just my opinion.

Mike

PackardV8
07-18-2006, 07:46 PM
Hi, Dan,

No issues with the Chevy valve conversion, other than all that work is no longer necessary now that R3 valves and springs are readily available now.

Because Chevy valve stems are shorter than Studebaker, an equivalent amount must be milled off the rocker arm shaft stands and the pushrods shortened as well.

thnx, jv.

PackardV8